Broken screw on derby cover
#21
My guess is that you were using a chinese torx bit to remove your screw. Was it from harbor freight or wal-mart or kroger's or walgreens? Get new screws, then buy American made tools from Sanp-On or Mac or Craftsman and buy one fo those impact drivers and you will never strip anything out. I have the original screws (all of them) in my '05 Road King with 30,000 miles and have never stripped any heads out. The problem is with your tools, not with the bolts. Guys will spend 20K on a bike and then buy chinese junk for their tools. Whne you get your new bolts and American tools, put a new torx bolt in a chinese bit and feel the slop. Then, put it in an American bit and feel how tight it is. Harbor freight is the biggest problem with Harley hardware.
#22
Just went through this. Good tools help, but trust me - these things will get so tight that it won't matter. The seal swells after installing it which drives the clamp load of the screws through the roof. This is what usually causes the problem.
I tried the dremel slot idea - don't mess with this - one slip and you'll get a wicked mark on the pretty chrome. I just tore off more screw head with this idea. Mine were really not cooperating.
If the head it still on - just use a number #1 size drill (.228") up to a 1/4" (.250") drill, and drill carefully in the center of the head until it separates from the threaded shank.
The shank should turn out by hand easily after the head is removed. If the threads are corroded in place - remove cover, soak with penetrating oil for a day and then go for the vise grips.
Replace with chrome button head cap screws - 1/4" - 20 (threads per inch) by 3/4" long. These use a hex key to drive them. Use chrome lock washers under the heads. My dealer got some from the mechanics in the back for me. Using the anti-seize is a good idea to make sure electrolysis/corrosion isn't an issue later.
I tried the dremel slot idea - don't mess with this - one slip and you'll get a wicked mark on the pretty chrome. I just tore off more screw head with this idea. Mine were really not cooperating.
If the head it still on - just use a number #1 size drill (.228") up to a 1/4" (.250") drill, and drill carefully in the center of the head until it separates from the threaded shank.
The shank should turn out by hand easily after the head is removed. If the threads are corroded in place - remove cover, soak with penetrating oil for a day and then go for the vise grips.
Replace with chrome button head cap screws - 1/4" - 20 (threads per inch) by 3/4" long. These use a hex key to drive them. Use chrome lock washers under the heads. My dealer got some from the mechanics in the back for me. Using the anti-seize is a good idea to make sure electrolysis/corrosion isn't an issue later.
#23
These are the bolts I use. The 12 point heads NEVER strip and the stainless always looks great!
http://alloyboltz.com/catalog/produc...roducts_id=123
They will sell you individual sets instead of the whole kit if you want. Their engine kits come with button head allens for the derby cover but you can get 12 point there also, I have them.
http://alloyboltz.com/catalog/produc...roducts_id=123
They will sell you individual sets instead of the whole kit if you want. Their engine kits come with button head allens for the derby cover but you can get 12 point there also, I have them.
Last edited by thealien; 08-16-2009 at 01:22 PM.
#24
These are the bolts I use. The 12 point heads NEVER strip and the stainless always looks great!
http://alloyboltz.com/catalog/produc...roducts_id=123
They will sell you individual sets instead of the whole kit if you want. Their engine kits come with button head allens for the derby cover but you can get 12 point there also, I have them.
http://alloyboltz.com/catalog/produc...roducts_id=123
They will sell you individual sets instead of the whole kit if you want. Their engine kits come with button head allens for the derby cover but you can get 12 point there also, I have them.
#25
one problem i see some guys doing is using a t-25 rather than the correct t-27 bit. when that happens it's easy to round out the opening of the head of the screw. i hope you get that bolt out. i can't remember if the holes are blind holes or open. but i can remember that i use anti sneeze on the threads of the primary screws to lessen problems with removal.
#26
Had one of the Torx head strip out on me.I used a drummel tool with a tapered grinding wheel.Didn't force it, took about 15 min. to take the head off with no marks on the cover.I replaced all of them with stainless allen head cap screws and used anti-seize compound.Love stainless steel.Have a friend who makes custom knives.He's got a 4 stage buffing wheel set up.It takes a little time but the scews look almost like chrome when I'm done.