Defective Regulator? Help!
#1
Defective Regulator? Help!
Was cruising on the interstate the other day, took an exit and stopped at a light when I noticed the check engine and battery lights on. Looked at the voltmeter and it was showing about 11 volts. Luckily I got home before the battery totally drained. Charged the battery overnight.(Battery is new). I performed the 3 stator tests (ohms, ground and AC voltage) with my digital meter and the stator passed all three.
Next I unplugged the DC power connector and discovered no Battery on pin# 2. I started to trace the circuit, looked back at the voltmeter and like magic, 12V was back. Couldn't find any opens in the circuit. Put everthing back together, started the bike, went for a short test ride and the voltmeter in the fairing was pointing at the "4" portion of the number 14. In the past it would only point to the "1". I was hoping it fixed itself but no such luck.
I went for a ride tonight, all was well for the first 1/2 hour but as the bike got heated up when I would stop the voltage would drop to about 12V. When I would get under way it would go back to 14V and it seemed that if I applied the brake while stopped the voltage would sink a little further.
Should I invest $200 for a new regulator? All advice is welcome.
Next I unplugged the DC power connector and discovered no Battery on pin# 2. I started to trace the circuit, looked back at the voltmeter and like magic, 12V was back. Couldn't find any opens in the circuit. Put everthing back together, started the bike, went for a short test ride and the voltmeter in the fairing was pointing at the "4" portion of the number 14. In the past it would only point to the "1". I was hoping it fixed itself but no such luck.
I went for a ride tonight, all was well for the first 1/2 hour but as the bike got heated up when I would stop the voltage would drop to about 12V. When I would get under way it would go back to 14V and it seemed that if I applied the brake while stopped the voltage would sink a little further.
Should I invest $200 for a new regulator? All advice is welcome.
#2
Intermitent electrical problems are a real pain to troubleshoot. Before replacing parts that may or may not solve your problem, I would try to replicate the problem at home under somewhat controlled conditions. If the regulator is solid state ( I believe it is) than a intermittent problem will almost always caused by high heat. Use a blow dryer or heat gun to see if the regulator malfunctions when heated. I would also check all conectors for moisture or loose contacts before replacing the regulator.
You can replace the regulator to see if that fixes your problem. Worst case you will have a spare regulator.
Mark
You can replace the regulator to see if that fixes your problem. Worst case you will have a spare regulator.
Mark
Last edited by mkbrower; 08-11-2009 at 07:51 AM.
#3
#4
My '06 King did this to me halfway into our 300 mile Sat lunch cruise. Everything was cool, had lunch, cruising through town and the check engine and batt light are on. Fueled up, got on the highway, and once I got up to around 50 mph, the light went out and stayed out until 150 miles later when I got back home and got to my third stop light, then the lights came back on.
Ran the speedo check, and get a DTC P0562 "low bat voltage" code. Both pos and neg terminal bolts were a little loose, snugged them down, went for a ride, same result. No warning lights until a couple of stop lights, then they came back on.
Made an appt w/ the dealer on my ext warranty, but can't get in for over a week.
If it's the battery, then I'm out an extra $50 for the deductible, because the ext warranty doesn't cover them. If I gamble and buy a battery, and it's something else, then I'm out the battery money.
Applying automotive theory, I'm not seeing the lights dim when the battery light is lit, and when I rev it up, they get brighter, so seems the charging system is good.
If I'm running the original battery (bought pre-owned trade in from dealer) it could be time for a new battery anyway.
Then again, the $50 deductable is probably cheaper for the charging system diag than if I took it in without the ext warranty. At least I'd have peace of mind that everything's cool.
Maybe I'm on the defective regulator list.
Ran the speedo check, and get a DTC P0562 "low bat voltage" code. Both pos and neg terminal bolts were a little loose, snugged them down, went for a ride, same result. No warning lights until a couple of stop lights, then they came back on.
Made an appt w/ the dealer on my ext warranty, but can't get in for over a week.
If it's the battery, then I'm out an extra $50 for the deductible, because the ext warranty doesn't cover them. If I gamble and buy a battery, and it's something else, then I'm out the battery money.
Applying automotive theory, I'm not seeing the lights dim when the battery light is lit, and when I rev it up, they get brighter, so seems the charging system is good.
If I'm running the original battery (bought pre-owned trade in from dealer) it could be time for a new battery anyway.
Then again, the $50 deductable is probably cheaper for the charging system diag than if I took it in without the ext warranty. At least I'd have peace of mind that everything's cool.
Maybe I'm on the defective regulator list.
Last edited by KSGG; 08-23-2009 at 07:55 AM.
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