'05 RKC and the cruise has started to act up. From what I've come up with during testing it seems like it's the module but wanted to run it through you all and anyone with the same experience.

The cruise will just stop working. Heading down the road it just shuts off; green indicator turns to red. When I get back home after this happens I can't get into any of the test procedures like pulling the shut off codes, checking the cut off switches or cable lash adjustment; there's no reaction. I've gone through all the connectors, wiring, checking resistance and looking for loose or open wiring. However, once I disconnect the harness from the module, let it sit a few minutes and plug it back in, I can now access all the tests I mentioned above. The shut off codes only shows what was used the last time it was working properly which is the front brake lever since that's what I mainly use. When accessing the test for checking the set/resume switch and cut off switches (rear brake, front brake, throttle roll-off) they all show as working properly. I can also run the cable lash adjustment.

Once I have everything back together and go for a test ride, sometimes the cruise will work for a few days, other times I go to set it and the indicator turns green then immediately red where I am then back at step one.

Anyone else have this type of thing? Yes, I've used the search function and have read what I could find in regards to cruise problems. Since I noticed several others having a problem with the module I just wanted to get some final input before dropping the coin an a new one. I don't mind spending the cash but I'm not the type to be a "parts replacer" just to see if that's the correct problem. With Harley, doing it that way can get expensive.

Any input would be appreciated.

Brian

 

Wow......nothing at all on this?

 

I had a similar problem and this fixed it:

On the idle cable next to the neck of the frame there is a switch in the cable called the roll-off switch. Unplug the front spade from the switch and leave it unplugged. Take her for a spin and see if the CC works.

I didn't want to replace the cable to fix the switch, so I just left the front spade unplugged. It works fine.

Good luck

 

Thanks for the reply......

Actually, I had installed new cables during the bike rebuild. The roll-off switch operation tests normal both at the switch connectors and at the harness plug for the cruise module; infinity ohms (switch open) with throttle at normal position and 0 ohms (switch closed) when forced roll-off (as per service manual).

Funny thing is when doing the dropout tests all the dropout switches will show a reaction (light turns red to green) when working properly. However, when I am having issues with it only the set & resume switch tests will show a reaction. The roll-off switch and all switch tests after it will have no reaction. This seems strange since the physical testing of the roll-off switch tests good even at the module connection. Then at other times none of the switches will show a reaction. In fact the cruise light won't even come on when trying to initiate any of the tests (dropout, lash adjustment or code retrieval) unless I unplug the module and plug it back in. I had also tried running the bike and using the cruise with the roll-off switch unplugged so the system should get an "open" status the whole time. Didn't help.

I guess my biggest question is for those who have had to replace their module. Did the cruise just stop working completely or did you have intermittent problems to a certain degree. How did you determine it was the module at fault?

Brian

 

You will "probably" find your problem in the adjustment of the idle cable.

 

Brian, the best diagnostic tool for electrical problems generally, and the cruise control on your bike, specifically, is the HD Electrical Diagnostic Manual. Stop by your local HD store's service department, explain your problem and what you've done to try to diagnose it, and ask them to let you look at their copy. You'll want the EDM for 2005 Touring Models.

It has a lengthy diagnostic "tree" for cruise control problems.

If you can't borrow one, you can buy one for $50 or so.

 

Thanks Carl.....

I just went ahead and ordered the manual. I already have both the service and parts manuals. Might as well add another to the bookshelf - LOL

btw - cool deal on the CMA


Brian

 

Brian, be sure to post what you find. I'd buy the EDM, but I haven't had any real electrical issues (yet) and when I need to know something the dealer is a mile away and they let me use/copy what I need from the Service Dept. books.

Carl

 

Any new word on this.???

 

had somthing simialar cleaning the contacts in the switch did the trick for me.