Starting my Brembo conversion tonight
#11
07-17-2009, 08:37 AM
Wow..this is like a conversation with myself. Bueller, Bueller??
I bled them again last night..well, 2am this morning. Again and again. Have a rock hard lever. Then once I took it for a ride, it pulls back even more. I'm guess that's just the way it's going to be. At least now the lever is consistant and not grabbing at different spots. Just feels different and will take a few miles to get used to. They stop great though, just some different lever action.
I bled them again last night..well, 2am this morning. Again and again. Have a rock hard lever. Then once I took it for a ride, it pulls back even more. I'm guess that's just the way it's going to be. At least now the lever is consistant and not grabbing at different spots. Just feels different and will take a few miles to get used to. They stop great though, just some different lever action.
#13
07-17-2009, 10:22 AM
#14
07-17-2009, 12:50 PM
Extreme HDF Member
The OEM Brembo system is a high system pressure set-up; hence the plastic-like brake lines to prevent brake line expansion and the smaller diameter banjo bolt at the m/c.
To create the equivalent system pressure with the non-Brembo m/c, you probably have to use more lever travel.
Anyway, that's my WAG for what you are experiencing.
Have a good and safe trip.
To create the equivalent system pressure with the non-Brembo m/c, you probably have to use more lever travel.
Anyway, that's my WAG for what you are experiencing.
Have a good and safe trip.
#15
07-17-2009, 12:57 PM
Elite HDF Member
Got the parts minus the master cylinder for $300 on ebay. 55 mile take off rotors, calipers, pads, chrome bleeders and front brake line. He's got the MC and just has to find it.
Quick question. When referring to WVUltra's write up it mentions 4 new caliper bolts. THe dealer only had 2 in stock. I thought I read somewhere that there were 2 long and 2 short on the stock older caliper setup. Will I be OK or still need to hunt down 2 shorter ones or are they the same thread and can be chopped shorter?
Quick question. When referring to WVUltra's write up it mentions 4 new caliper bolts. THe dealer only had 2 in stock. I thought I read somewhere that there were 2 long and 2 short on the stock older caliper setup. Will I be OK or still need to hunt down 2 shorter ones or are they the same thread and can be chopped shorter?
I also installed new HD floating rotors and steel brake lines.
#16
07-17-2009, 08:11 PM
Someone mentioned a possible warped rotor. I doubt that's the case, they're new and I don't feel any pusling but I'm wonder if the wheel isn't 100% centered that when the bike is stationary it's a hard lever..then when the bike moves, the rotors move a bit in or out and then that's when the lever depresses...anyone?
#17
07-17-2009, 08:27 PM
Yeah, if the rotors are warped, they could be pushing the brake pads in the calipers a little, causing a further pull to get them back out again. But I think you would feel pulsation, unless they are floating. It almost sounds like the master might be leaking a little fluid by the seal, or a little bit of air is still trapped.
#18
07-17-2009, 08:50 PM
#19
07-17-2009, 09:07 PM
Road Master
turbo38sfi
I think that you still have some trapped air. Pull your brake lever back and secure it(I use a tie wrap) and leave it that way over night. This will allow the air bubbles to travel up to the top of the master cylinder and out of the fluid. You can also check if thr rotors are centered with a feeler gage between the rotor and the tangs on the caliber.
I think that you still have some trapped air. Pull your brake lever back and secure it(I use a tie wrap) and leave it that way over night. This will allow the air bubbles to travel up to the top of the master cylinder and out of the fluid. You can also check if thr rotors are centered with a feeler gage between the rotor and the tangs on the caliber.
#20
07-17-2009, 10:11 PM
turbo38sfi
I think that you still have some trapped air. Pull your brake lever back and secure it(I use a tie wrap) and leave it that way over night. This will allow the air bubbles to travel up to the top of the master cylinder and out of the fluid. You can also check if thr rotors are centered with a feeler gage between the rotor and the tangs on the caliber.
I think that you still have some trapped air. Pull your brake lever back and secure it(I use a tie wrap) and leave it that way over night. This will allow the air bubbles to travel up to the top of the master cylinder and out of the fluid. You can also check if thr rotors are centered with a feeler gage between the rotor and the tangs on the caliber.