broken pulley studs...
#1
broken pulley studs...
So, the scenario played out something like this...
Wifey is on the back of the bike as we pull out of the driveway yesterday afternoon. As we slowly try to make our way our of our subdivision to take a short ride, she says she saw something bounce off of the into the road. I turn around and the only thing I can find is a broken bolt-head...that really doesn't look like something that came off of my Road King. I figure I'll proceed slowly, and see if I notice any odd noises - or change in handeling. We continue thru the sudbivision, and as I click 2nd gear rounding a corner - I hear someting snap..and totally lose power.
I quickly pull to the side of the street. Brakes are good, engine seems right, transmission shifts properly - but no forward progress. I shut it down and begin to investigate...looking from the back of the bike (between the clutch-side bag, and the fender) I see that the rear drive pully is askew. I pull off the saddlebag and find all 5 pulley bolts are missing. I quickly run thru options in my head - and come to the conclusion that I am not going to be getting out of this incident cheaply.
Wifey walks back to the house to ger her car...and some tools & spare bolts. I make calls to my Pops to bring ramps & a truck. My assumption at the time was "I'm like 4 blocks, from the house - if I can even get 3 bolts in the pulley. I can nurse it home". No such luck. 45-minutes, and a truck ride later the bike is back in the garage. As my *** is hot, sweaty, dirty and hungry from the recent ordeal. I grab a beer...then a shower...then take the family out for pizza - I'll deal with the bike in the morning.
Well it's the morning now.
Bike is up on the lift...wheel is off, and the situation is less than ideal.
All 5 bolts snaped-off INSIDE the wheel hub. I am looking at a 1/4" to 1/2" of smooth/worn depth in each spot I should be seeing a cleanly threaded hole. All bolts were installed using Loc-Tight, snugged properly using a torque wrench, and were the OEM issue studs.
Looks like I get to go buy a wheel.
But am wondering what in the hell could have contributed to this failure. I am a big advocate of doing 'cursury' checks of things frequently. While I don't do a complete walk-around/bolt check before each ride...I do pay attention to the condition of the bike and I am SURE I would have noticed pulley bolts backing out (if indeed they did prior to breaking) during a routine cleaning.
Thoughts???
Wifey is on the back of the bike as we pull out of the driveway yesterday afternoon. As we slowly try to make our way our of our subdivision to take a short ride, she says she saw something bounce off of the into the road. I turn around and the only thing I can find is a broken bolt-head...that really doesn't look like something that came off of my Road King. I figure I'll proceed slowly, and see if I notice any odd noises - or change in handeling. We continue thru the sudbivision, and as I click 2nd gear rounding a corner - I hear someting snap..and totally lose power.
I quickly pull to the side of the street. Brakes are good, engine seems right, transmission shifts properly - but no forward progress. I shut it down and begin to investigate...looking from the back of the bike (between the clutch-side bag, and the fender) I see that the rear drive pully is askew. I pull off the saddlebag and find all 5 pulley bolts are missing. I quickly run thru options in my head - and come to the conclusion that I am not going to be getting out of this incident cheaply.
Wifey walks back to the house to ger her car...and some tools & spare bolts. I make calls to my Pops to bring ramps & a truck. My assumption at the time was "I'm like 4 blocks, from the house - if I can even get 3 bolts in the pulley. I can nurse it home". No such luck. 45-minutes, and a truck ride later the bike is back in the garage. As my *** is hot, sweaty, dirty and hungry from the recent ordeal. I grab a beer...then a shower...then take the family out for pizza - I'll deal with the bike in the morning.
Well it's the morning now.
Bike is up on the lift...wheel is off, and the situation is less than ideal.
All 5 bolts snaped-off INSIDE the wheel hub. I am looking at a 1/4" to 1/2" of smooth/worn depth in each spot I should be seeing a cleanly threaded hole. All bolts were installed using Loc-Tight, snugged properly using a torque wrench, and were the OEM issue studs.
Looks like I get to go buy a wheel.
But am wondering what in the hell could have contributed to this failure. I am a big advocate of doing 'cursury' checks of things frequently. While I don't do a complete walk-around/bolt check before each ride...I do pay attention to the condition of the bike and I am SURE I would have noticed pulley bolts backing out (if indeed they did prior to breaking) during a routine cleaning.
Thoughts???
#2
Pulley Problems
Hmmmmm had this happen to me half way to the HD 105th Anniversary in Milwaukee. We stop for lunch at a dealer and I had been hearing a strange ticking noise most of the morning and it only occurred when I let off the throttle. As I back out of the parking spot at the dealer the bike will only move back about 6 inches. So I get off the bike sure enough two bolts are missing the three left are loose and one is hanging out enough the wheel would only turn so far until the bolt hit. I was very lucky because these where custom wheels and I had put new OEM bolts in when I replaced the stock wheel (w/loctite). Anyway 3 hrs and $300 later the dealer had me back on the rode with new bolts and a new pulley.
Moral of the story, I check these bolts all the time now -
Moral of the story, I check these bolts all the time now -
#3
#4
Yep.
Wheels are stock (40-spoke laced) take-offs from a 2001 touring model. pulley is a stock unit (it has been powdercoated to match) and all bolts are H-D OEM.
And, as mentioned, bolts were tightened to spec as listed in the H-D Manual, With Loc-Tight.
The 2 broken bolt heads that I found, have (roughly) 2 or 3 'good' threads left above the point at which they sheared-off. Thiis resulted in about 3/8" of an inch inside the hub at which they broke. I'll try to snap some pics.
Wheels are stock (40-spoke laced) take-offs from a 2001 touring model. pulley is a stock unit (it has been powdercoated to match) and all bolts are H-D OEM.
And, as mentioned, bolts were tightened to spec as listed in the H-D Manual, With Loc-Tight.
The 2 broken bolt heads that I found, have (roughly) 2 or 3 'good' threads left above the point at which they sheared-off. Thiis resulted in about 3/8" of an inch inside the hub at which they broke. I'll try to snap some pics.
#7
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Looking at the picks the hub has been loose for some time. This causes the ids to create cyclic loads on the bolts until one day you crank on the weakend bolts and the let go. Not being tight, they bent back and forth until failure.
Loctite on the mating faces will stop this plus make sure the bolts are correct grade and do not bottom out. The problem with this system is esentually from the loctited bolts themselves. If the hub over time starts to fret the bolts lose their torque, then get beat to death. Your wheel pics show a severe case of fretting as a result of a loose fit. Loctited there is no way to tell if they are tight since they are locked in with loctite. If either a locking ring or safety wire was used it would be easy to see if they lost torque before total destruction. A simple bolt replacement and retorque, it's good to go again. A compressed force must be maintained between the sprocket and wheel face or failure will happen.
Ron
Loctite on the mating faces will stop this plus make sure the bolts are correct grade and do not bottom out. The problem with this system is esentually from the loctited bolts themselves. If the hub over time starts to fret the bolts lose their torque, then get beat to death. Your wheel pics show a severe case of fretting as a result of a loose fit. Loctited there is no way to tell if they are tight since they are locked in with loctite. If either a locking ring or safety wire was used it would be easy to see if they lost torque before total destruction. A simple bolt replacement and retorque, it's good to go again. A compressed force must be maintained between the sprocket and wheel face or failure will happen.
Ron
Last edited by rbabos; 07-11-2009 at 05:09 PM.
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#8
Wow this one is very interesting... No idea, but I learn something from you guys every day.
PS: I don't see any bolts that are visible on the pulley of my '09 RK when I pull off my left saddle bag - are the '09 bikes different? How do I check these bolts (if there are any that can be checked)?
PS: I don't see any bolts that are visible on the pulley of my '09 RK when I pull off my left saddle bag - are the '09 bikes different? How do I check these bolts (if there are any that can be checked)?
Last edited by Arizona; 07-11-2009 at 05:46 PM.
#9
Well...
Trying figure the best way to proceed.
Talked to the guys at HogPro today and they can set me up with chrome 'fatty 50' readial laced spokes (16" rear/21" front with tire) for about $1800 - then I'll just have my current rear tire moutned and bolt everything up & be good. OR, replace only the rear wheel (for now) and grab a H-D Mirror Chrome Soild piece (p/n: 41262-08) http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US from my local shop - since not an 'in-stock' item, I can get it (with bearings installed) for $750.00 +tax. Would look slick, showing off my color-matched caliper and swingarm and allow for some cool effects when I add LED lighting later...would also be VERY easy to keep clean. OR, I can just get a stock replacement wheel for $460.00 +tax.
Wifey is not real fond of the idea of spending the $$$'s on HogPro...but will continue to try & work that angle.
Trying figure the best way to proceed.
Talked to the guys at HogPro today and they can set me up with chrome 'fatty 50' readial laced spokes (16" rear/21" front with tire) for about $1800 - then I'll just have my current rear tire moutned and bolt everything up & be good. OR, replace only the rear wheel (for now) and grab a H-D Mirror Chrome Soild piece (p/n: 41262-08) http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US from my local shop - since not an 'in-stock' item, I can get it (with bearings installed) for $750.00 +tax. Would look slick, showing off my color-matched caliper and swingarm and allow for some cool effects when I add LED lighting later...would also be VERY easy to keep clean. OR, I can just get a stock replacement wheel for $460.00 +tax.
Wifey is not real fond of the idea of spending the $$$'s on HogPro...but will continue to try & work that angle.
#10
This happened to the salesperson’s Street Bob who sold me my first Harley.
Now I’m constantly looking at them before I get on my ride, in hopes I can
see anything that may have started to loosen.
I also read on this forum about it happing to others.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...ur-pulley.html
http://www.metacafe.com/channels/twofish/
Now I’m constantly looking at them before I get on my ride, in hopes I can
see anything that may have started to loosen.
I also read on this forum about it happing to others.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...ur-pulley.html
http://www.metacafe.com/channels/twofish/
Last edited by twofish; 07-11-2009 at 05:23 PM. Reason: Revised