with all the other stuff already there don't forget #45 torx for removing the brake disc .I just put both tires on my Ultra and bought the Harbor Freight $19.00 dollar bead breaker instead of using c clamps it made it a hole lot easier and I used duct tape on the rim edges so I don't scratch the rim really not that hard to do since you have done bicycle tires in the past its very similar if you want some pictures I took while doing it send the email link and I will send them to you

 

http://www.bestrestproducts.com/c-98-beadbrakr.aspx

 

The two Harbor Freight tire change pieces already quoted are good units. The base has the bead breaker built in. The Marc Parnes balancer is also a good unit. I use that equipment with a Mojo bar & a couple of good long tire irons & a set of rim protectors (Google 'em).

Get the Harbor Freight changer, set some anchors in your garage floor, & you can anchor the changer when in use & put it in storage the rest of the time. You'll also need some wheel weights (available at nearly any auto parts store)

First time you change a tire clean the rim, balance just the rim with a new *metal* valve stem in place. Mark the heavy spot on the inside of the rim. It may not be the valve stem! After that you won't need to replace the valve stems, & you can always mount the tire to the correct heavy spot. It usually saves weights.

 

Second this. Soapy water will get the tire on about as well as a commercial lubricant, but getting it off can be another story. Detergent is designed to break down oils, and it does its job nicely on the oils in the rubber. It can make the bead seem almost glued to the wheel, and the devil to break, especially in cold weather.

I've done OK seating the bead by taking the wheel to a station that has a full sized compressor. The little compressors that you find at the "insert 50 cents" inflation stands are not up to the job. Don't put the valve core into the tire until the beads are seated as they restrict air flow. As said, good lubrication of the bead is the key to getting it to seat easily. Be sure you hear both sides pop, and double check to see that things are seated fully and evenly .

Amen!!

 

Didn't know this. Thanks for the info.

I forgot to mention that when we set the bead the valve core remains out. We bought a device, similar to a blower attachment, that allows the air to enter the valve stem without the force being reduced in any way, like you would with a tire chuck. One of the other "investors" bought this and I'm not sure where or what it is called, but it is doesn't have the mechanism that works with the valve core, which throws the full force of the compressor into the tire. This tends to swell the tire better and make the bead seat more readily. Before buying this we always had trouble, but not anymore. You could also use the method suggested in the tire-changing link I mentioned earlier, like using ratcheting tie-down straps, etc.--but just buying a simple device as described above will do the job easily.

 

Mae West was wrong when she said that too much of a good thing is wonderful. I found out about the gluing effect of detergent and rubber the hard way. Figured that if soapy water is pretty slippery then straight liquid dish soap would be even better. Since then I've used commerical bead lubricant.

 

Ok, how about spoked wheels with an inner tube, how do you balance the wheel? You can't install the valve in the wheel, so what do you do to get a good balacing?

 

You need a friend who is good at it to show you the tricks. The last one I did went on scary easy. You definitely need good tire irons and a compressor that puts out enough volume to get the tire back on the bead. Dont skimp on the bead lube going on and off. I use Dyna beads. One of those thirty five gallon drums makes a good work stand.

 

From the Dunlop motorcycle site - http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/info....asp?id=27#tip

Note points 5 and 7 below.

Follow these mounting precautions:

1. Wear approved eye protection.
2. Clean and lubricate beads and rim.
3. Centralize rim band and tube to prevent pinching if tube-type rim.
*Note directional arrows on sidewall where applicable.
4. Lock assembly on mounting machine or place in safety cage before inflating to seat beads.
5. Set air hose relief valve at 40 psi.
6. Use extension gauge and hose with clip-on air chuck. Stand back with no part of your body within the perimeter of the assembled tire and rim.
7. Inflate with core in valve stem.
8. Never inflate above 40 psi to seat beads.*
9. Spin wheel to check bead seating and alignment.

*If the beads do not seat by 40 psi, deflate and repeat above procedures. Never use a volatile substance or rubber "donut" to aid bead seating. If the tire is a tube-type, deflate and reinflate after seating to prevent tube wrinkles.

 

A recent tire changing thread has renewed my interest in this subject. Thought I would bump this one up too.