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Drive belt deflection-Is this normal

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  #21  
Old 06-27-2009, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tennessee streetglide
took my bike back to the dealer today they changed the rear tire bearings and the isd bearing. when i left it wasnt making the noise got on the interstate and got it warmed up started agian. got home pushed on the belt was tight as hell felt the belt couple hours later and its loose. but i dont think its the belt get tighter from heat shouldnt it expand with the heat. i believe its the gears that turn the belt getting hot and expanding. some people i talk to that have the same bike doesnt have this problem and some do so whats up with that . $20,000 for bike and only 5000 miles on it shouldnt have this problem the way i see it. just had to vent alittle. back to the dealer next week i guess .
Tennessee,

Sounds like what's going on with me, let me know what happens next week.

Thanks

Harleyman1340
 
  #22  
Old 06-27-2009, 08:56 PM
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my dealer is open on sundays and the service department is to believe i will try to get back and see if they can find the problem.
 
  #23  
Old 06-27-2009, 09:11 PM
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Quick question on topic:
My '09 Ultra owners manual says belt deflection is ---" on the jiffy stand with 10 pounds of air in the shocks and my '09 Touring Service Manual says belt deflection can be checked on the jiffy stand or with the bike on a lift and the rear wheel suspended -- both ways with the same measurement, I believe.
Which is correct? I have a new center stand with the rear tire 90% unweighted and that seems like the easiest way to check. If for no other reason then the bike isn't leaned over on the side your supposed to check on...

What is the spec for belt deflection on a hanging rear tire? I believe the older manuals wanted a person on the bike while checking deflection?

Take care,
Dave
 
  #24  
Old 06-27-2009, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by harleyman1340
That's one of my concerns about my situation as well. When I picked it up from my 1000 mile service the service writer told me everything was in spec and if something did happen I had a 2 year warranty. Of course he's not the one that would take time off from work for a road trip and wind up having to sit at a out of town dealership waiting on warranty repairs because of a situation that could have been corrected. I would go ahead and adjust the belt myself, but I don't have the tools necessary to do this and the cam washers used to tighten/loosen the belt are new to me, besides when you spend $20k plus on a new bike in this economy you would hope that someone would appreciate your business enough to provide better service than telling you that you had a 2 year warranty to cover any problems. Utilizing the service writers logic, why would I buy the tools necessary to make my own adjustments, hell, I should just buy some louder pipes, turn the radio up and put my knees in the wind.

PS. Iclick, thanks for your time and effort to reply to my post, very informative.
You're welcome. I would just DIY and know it's done right. Go to Sears and purchase two these sockets. Then go to Harbor-Freight tools and buy one of their $15 (or cheaper on sale) 1/2"-drive torque wrenches if you don't already have one. Turn the axle (left side) to adjust the belt, then with another 1/2"-drive ratchet or breaker bar to hold the axle, torque down the axle nut (100 ft/lbs on '07). I would adjust the belt no tighter than the loosest spec when cold, and I prefer using the tighter spec when fully hot.
 

Last edited by iclick; 06-28-2009 at 01:46 PM.
  #25  
Old 06-27-2009, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tennessee streetglide
took my bike back to the dealer today they changed the rear tire bearings and the isd bearing. when i left it wasnt making the noise got on the interstate and got it warmed up started agian. got home pushed on the belt was tight as hell felt the belt couple hours later and its loose. but i dont think its the belt get tighter from heat shouldnt it expand with the heat. i believe its the gears that turn the belt getting hot and expanding. some people i talk to that have the same bike doesnt have this problem and some do so whats up with that . $20,000 for bike and only 5000 miles on it shouldnt have this problem the way i see it. just had to vent alittle. back to the dealer next week i guess .
The problem is that the front and rear sprockets (pulleys)
expand to a larger diameter, which is greater than any expansion in the belt.
 
  #26  
Old 06-27-2009, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tennessee streetglide
my dealer is open on sundays and the service department is to believe i will try to get back and see if they can find the problem.
To you and Harleyman1340, please let me know if you have any news about your noise. Is the noise in your bikes similar to the (long) description I gave earlier today? I'd like to share detailed experiences with you two on this.
 
  #27  
Old 06-27-2009, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by harleyman1340
Iclick,

Mine is tight as a banjo string when hot but seems to be in spec when cold. I have a noise that appears to come from the drive line when the bike is hot, my dealer hasn't heard my noise but from my description he says this noise is normal and comes from the primary. I'm having a hard time believing it is coming from the primary because the frequency of the noise changes with the speed of the bike and quits when the bike is stopped, if it were the primary wouldn't the noise continue when the bike was stopped since the primary is constantly moving with the rotation of the motor. Also when your drive belt was tight as a banjo string, did you hear any rubbing noise from the drive line?

Thanks
Had the same problem with my bike. Dealer could never figure it out, but I followed iclicks instructions & the problem went away.
 
  #28  
Old 06-28-2009, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by iclick
I would just DIY and know it's done right. You're welcome. Go to Sears and purchase two these sockets. Then go to Harbor-Freight tools and buy one of their $15 (or cheaper on sale) 1/2"-drive torque wrenches if you don't already have one. Turn the axle (left side) to adjust the belt, the with another 1/2"-drive ratchet or breaker bar to hold the axle, torque down the axle nut (100 ft/lbs on '07). I would adjust the belt no tighter than the loosest spec when cold, and I prefer using the tighter spec when fully hot.
Iclick, I wouldn't consider my noise a "whine", mine is more of a "rubbing" sound, like something out of alignment. I even wondered if the brake rotor was warped and the rotor was hitting the brake pad on the "high" spot everytime the wheel rotated around, I listened for changes in "frequency" when I used the back brake and I also slammed on ABS brakes going down the road and the "frequency" didn't change any.

PS. I assume you would loosen the nut on the right side before adjusting the axle and that the "cam washers" on either side will rotate the same amount. Thinking out loud to myself, "man that sounds easy enough, two 36mm sockets and a torque wrench, but dad always told me that I could break an anvil"
 
  #29  
Old 06-28-2009, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by iclick
To you and Harleyman1340, please let me know if you have any news about your noise. Is the noise in your bikes similar to the (long) description I gave earlier today? I'd like to share detailed experiences with you two on this.
my problem sounds the same as yours doesnt make that much noise till the pulleys get warmed up and then the noise is bad at slow speeds and stopping at redlights and when i turn to the left its the worst. im thinking the same as you the pulleys are get bigger when warmed up. do you have to have the belt tool that shows you ten pounds of pressure to adjust the belt. thanks for the info iclick but i will call the dealer this mourning when they open and see what they say since the bearings didnt help.
 
  #30  
Old 06-28-2009, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by harleyman1340
Iclick, I wouldn't consider my noise a "whine", mine is more of a "rubbing" sound, like something out of alignment. I even wondered if the brake rotor was warped and the rotor was hitting the brake pad on the "high" spot everytime the wheel rotated around, I listened for changes in "frequency" when I used the back brake and I also slammed on ABS brakes going down the road and the "frequency" didn't change any.
Doesn't sound like my noise at all, but if there is no change when you apply the rear brake I don't think the source would be that area.

PS. I assume you would loosen the nut on the right side before adjusting the axle and that the "cam washers" on either side will rotate the same amount. Thinking out loud to myself, "man that sounds easy enough, two 36mm sockets and a torque wrench, but dad always told me that I could break an anvil"
It's basically an easy job, but isn't that easy to keep the axle in place while torquing the nut. After adjusting the belt I mark the cam on the left side with a spot of nail polish, then after torquing the nut I re-check the mark and belt tension.
 


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