well for probably the 6th or 7th time I have taken the derby cover off to adjust the clutch adjuster screw with no better results than the 1st. I am following manual and also recomendations from the "easy way" as outlined from the HD forum. But I just cant get the clutch to start to grab midpoint from the grip. As per my last adjustmet this is what I did. Collapsed cable adjuster all the way on a cold bike. Loosened jam nut. Screwed in clutch adjuster screw till it just started to push out handle. Backed out clutch adjuster screw 1/2 turn, or maybe a touch less. Tightened jam nut. Re-adjusted cable adjuster to 1/8 inch space at ferule. Took it out and no improvement. Re adjusted cable adjuster when hot, and ran out of threads. What should I try now. I cant believe something so simple stupid is so difficult. Any other advice on what the hell I'm doing wrong?

 

Try stopping as soon as you feel any pressure at all, pay no attention to the clutch lever. Then back it off 1/2 turn.

 

What year bike you working on?

 

Do waht stro1965 said and make sure when you tighten the clutch nut your not moving the adjuster screw.

 

I don't believe the manual says anything about adjusting the screw until the clutch handle begins to move.

 

By the way its an 08 roadking and I collapsed the cable adjuster completely on every adjustment just to be clear on things. In addition I have tried setting the throw 2 ways. Once by lightly seating "the adjusting screw" than backing out on several attempts to 1/2 than3/4 than 1 full turn same results. Than I tried it the ez method where you back out the jam nut until you feel the clutch handle start to move away from grip backed it out 1/2 turn Than I locked it. What I am not sure of what controls the distance of the throw of the clutch handle. The adjusting screw or the cable adjuster?

 

Both (or either) the screw and cable adjust free play. The procedure as outlined in most places... you want the cable free so that when adjusting the screw, there is no interference.

The screw adjustment (backed off) is to ensure there is no pressure on the throw-out bearing when clutch is engaged - lever released as in normal riding. Then, the cable adjuster is simply to remove most of the free play in the cable so the clutch mechanism has enough travel to release and again, 1/8 free play (min) at the lever so there is no pressure on the throw-out bearing when lever is fully released.

I get the feeling you're trying to make it engage at a certain spot of the lever travel? Sorry, it don't work that way. They all have their own personality depending upon the condition of the friction plates and somewhat the type of fluid you have in the primary.

All you can do to adjust the engagment spot is to play with the free play at the lever. You may end up with a LOT of free play there to acheive the engagement position of the lever you're looking for. No matter what, ensure there is free play else throwout bearing and/or clutch will fail prematurely.

 

Yep. Only way to change the engaugement point of the clutch is to add more free travel at the lever. Or increase the thickness of the clutch pack with thicker discs or steels.

 

You don't need to mess with the adjuster in the primary to move the grab point for the clutch. I know the HD manual says 1/8 inch for the cable, but if you want your clutch to grab in the middle you need to make this measurement a little more. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch cable, then turn the adjuster 2 turns to make the cable shorter. Start your bike and see if your clutch point has changed enough for your liking. keep doing this until it engages where you want.

 

My buddy can't seem to find the cable adjustment tube and nuts for his '07 CVO RK with a hydraulic clutch.