Gear drive issues???
#22
#24
If it were me I'd go with the new style chains/tensioners, much less chance of having any issues with crank runout. It wasn't available when I did my build the first time or that's what I would have done. That's the way I went on my friends 00 RK when I did his Andrews 37/AMS 96" motor. He couldn't be happier.
Rick
#25
* [1] Get the rear tire off the ground and the transmission in 5th gear. Install the two intake pushrods only. Do NOT extend them.
* [2] While holding the front intake pushrod against the lifter, roll the engine until the front intake pushrod is as high as it will go. This will insure that the front intake is full open on the camshaft, and the rear is fully down on the camshaft.
* [3] Adjust the rear intake pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the rear intake pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [4] While holding the rear intake pushrod roll the engine until the rear intake pushrod is all the way up. The rear intake valve is now full open and the front is fully closed.
* [5] Adjust the front intake pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the front intake pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [6] Install the two exhaust pushrods. Do NOT extend them.
* [7] While holding the front exhaust pushrod against the lifter, roll the engine until the front exhaust pushrod is as high as it will go. This will insure that the front exhaust is full open on the camshaft and the rear is fully closed.
* [8] Adjust the rear exhaust pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the rear exhaust pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [9] While holding the rear exhaust pushrod roll the engine until the rear exhaust pushrod is all the way up. The rear exhaust valve is now full open and the front is fully closed.
* [10] Adjust the front exhaust pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the front exhaust pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [2] While holding the front intake pushrod against the lifter, roll the engine until the front intake pushrod is as high as it will go. This will insure that the front intake is full open on the camshaft, and the rear is fully down on the camshaft.
* [3] Adjust the rear intake pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the rear intake pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [4] While holding the rear intake pushrod roll the engine until the rear intake pushrod is all the way up. The rear intake valve is now full open and the front is fully closed.
* [5] Adjust the front intake pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the front intake pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [6] Install the two exhaust pushrods. Do NOT extend them.
* [7] While holding the front exhaust pushrod against the lifter, roll the engine until the front exhaust pushrod is as high as it will go. This will insure that the front exhaust is full open on the camshaft and the rear is fully closed.
* [8] Adjust the rear exhaust pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the rear exhaust pushrod but there is no up and down play.
* [9] While holding the rear exhaust pushrod roll the engine until the rear exhaust pushrod is all the way up. The rear exhaust valve is now full open and the front is fully closed.
* [10] Adjust the front exhaust pushrod and wait 15 minutes. Then make sure you can roll the front exhaust pushrod but there is no up and down play.
#26
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northshore in Massachusetts
Posts: 404
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I have S&S 510 gear cams and stock cam plate, have no noise on lower end but once engine is hot it is noisy up top that's normal. Especially if you are running synthetic oil. Synth makes more valve noise, I wouldn't worry about it shouldn't be any issues. If you want to quiet it down run dino oil or add a thickener like Lucas or Moly or motor honey or STP.. Can't go over 10-15% additive as you may get clutch slippage..
#27
I got things to get quite finally. I had to put the stock cams and chain drive back in. Things are now quite as a mouse. After all of the solutions I tried to quite it down the engine is quieter now than before I tore it apart. I did try the oversized pinion gear and it didn't do what I needed. After getting so fed up I put the stock tensioner set up back in on the SE billet cam plate and bolted the stock cams back in. I am glad to be riding again.
I miss the power the HQ cams gave, but, I have had suggestions that they could have been the source of the noise. I hope not, but I don't think I will bother to tear into it again until I need to check the spring loaded tensioners.
Thanks to all that have offered suggestions and support!!
Neil
RDMC
I miss the power the HQ cams gave, but, I have had suggestions that they could have been the source of the noise. I hope not, but I don't think I will bother to tear into it again until I need to check the spring loaded tensioners.
Thanks to all that have offered suggestions and support!!
Neil
RDMC
#28
A friend with a BMW GS (boxer engine) told me that Mobil 1 was noisy in his bike but Royal Purple 20w50 quietened it down considerably. You might give it a try, available in this area at Napa, Pep Boys, and most speed shops.
#29
If it were me I'd go with the new style chains/tensioners, much less chance of having any issues with crank runout. It wasn't available when I did my build the first time or that's what I would have done. That's the way I went on my friends 00 RK when I did his Andrews 37/AMS 96" motor. He couldn't be happier.
Rick
Rick
#30
Rick
Last edited by Egldr05; 07-10-2009 at 12:20 PM.
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