Rear pulley bolts
#1
Rear pulley bolts
Can someone let me know what type stainless faster grade to use? I sheared off 2 of the chrome grade 8's? I think what happened is they loosened and then snap! Anyway I want to put it together again with piece of mind. I have alloy steel bolts but am afraid they'll be to brittle? I'd like to use stainless.....
#3
Can someone let me know what type stainless faster grade to use? I sheared off 2 of the chrome grade 8's? I think what happened is they loosened and then snap! Anyway I want to put it together again with piece of mind. I have alloy steel bolts but am afraid they'll be to brittle? I'd like to use stainless.....
#4
#5
First, buy only covers that come with new chrome plated high grade bolts, then use proper locktite and tightening sequence. Do not use stainless unless you can be certain they are proper grade.
Once installed and properly torqued, don't remove even to install new tire...If your tire shop ain't equiped with modern tire changer that can deal with pulley and rotor attached, then find another tire shop.....most bolts loosen or shear after tire change where pulley and rotor was removed to allow tire swap.
Last edited by oinker02; 05-05-2009 at 01:17 PM.
#6
No chrome covers here, I am thinking that I did not use red? The wheels have just about 10K on them and I think in combination with the clutch, different gear and new cam which BTW is awesome (hq0034) I stressed the pulley? It appears that the pulley was moving around under load.
I think the fix is to go back to a stock pulley instead of the one that came with the wheels. I had to use a spacer to offset the belt for clearance. So its off to get a new pulley, bolts and tire. Metz 880 has held up well but as long as I am here it too will be changed.
The bolts did loosen and snap. The grade was A574 not 8....
I think the fix is to go back to a stock pulley instead of the one that came with the wheels. I had to use a spacer to offset the belt for clearance. So its off to get a new pulley, bolts and tire. Metz 880 has held up well but as long as I am here it too will be changed.
The bolts did loosen and snap. The grade was A574 not 8....
#7
Stay away from Stainless Bolts. The problem is not the bolts (grade 8) it's the installation. Some people think stainless bolts are a step up from grade 8. They are not. I am not entirely sure what grades they come in, but if you have a problem with them you will be sorry. They are a B**** to extract if damaged.
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#8
#9
im no expert but i think grade 5 bolts have higher shear resistance than a grade 8. grade 8 is needed for tensile strength, but the pulley bolts are mostly on shear. also you might check that your bolts are not too long for your hub drill depth, seen it happen with some aftermarket wheels. if the bolt is coming tight and you can still spin the washer you might have this issue.
#10
I am a mechanical engineer, please heed my advice.
1. As most have already said, use the proper OEM bolts (go buy them from the dealer).
2. Loctite and torque per service manual.
Don't use any other bolt other than what is specified by Harley.
The OEM bolts are supposed to bend/shear under extreme circumstances before the whole drivetrain gets destroyed. It's called engineered failure.
1. As most have already said, use the proper OEM bolts (go buy them from the dealer).
2. Loctite and torque per service manual.
Don't use any other bolt other than what is specified by Harley.
The OEM bolts are supposed to bend/shear under extreme circumstances before the whole drivetrain gets destroyed. It's called engineered failure.