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Truth in dyno

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  #41  
Old 04-03-2009, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Ozoneman
Steve, your comments don't really help me. I don't read anything that tells me what to expect or how to know if my bike is tuned right.

I was getting about 40 mpg and my bike ran nice. I had SE 211 cams put in and had dual dressers added and my new tune (done by the same guy) gave my 33 mpg. Is my bike tuned right? How do I know if it is?
I would have to say that you have a bad tune now. I have been there and seen this. It is what I said when I started this post. No way the cams are going to drop you 7mpg. It takes a good tuner that know what they are doing to make a bike run. The tuner also needs to know what the customer is looking for too. This is why I hate to mess with my bike after having what I think is a good tune. Before anyone says it, the person that tuned it last is in Florida, and I am in UpState NY. Not possible to have him do it again.
 
  #42  
Old 04-03-2009, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ozoneman
Steve, your comments don't really help me. I don't read anything that tells me what to expect or how to know if my bike is tuned right.

I was getting about 40 mpg and my bike ran nice. I had SE 211 cams put in and had dual dressers added and my new tune (done by the same guy) gave my 33 mpg. Is my bike tuned right? How do I know if it is?
I'm trying to keep this on topic. If I say it's a bad tune then the next guy says it a good tune we get no where. There is no reason for your bike to get 33 mpg unless you were out beating on it. Is your new mileage from the same type riding and the same type conditions?

If they are then it sounds like the tuner set things way too rich and/or poor on the timing side of the tune up. The tool didn't do it the tuner did. Without knowing more about your build and the tune up in the build I as anyone else is just providing our best guess at what could be wrong.
 
  #43  
Old 04-03-2009, 01:05 PM
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Harleytuner: You state that you set the afr to 13.3:1 to set a base. I am missing something here, that ratio in my estimation is low. How is the ecm going to learn a low afr and then go back to a leaner mixture. I know I am missing something. I am using a twin tec II+ with 2 wego o2 sensors in both pipes. From what I understood I set the afr value of what I want to achieve, in cruising for instance I choose 14.2:1 afr. I ride the bike and from what I had in my VE tables I am givin an adjustment parameter to adjust my ve tables to acheive my target afr. I then hook up my laptop and record info from SERT to see if I have any spark knock and adjust timing if needed.

My question is: the procedure I am doing is wrong. If so why? I just want to learn, as I stated in an earilier post tuners around me really do not know as much as yourself.
 
  #44  
Old 04-03-2009, 01:39 PM
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Harleytuner Still Waitin On A Response.???
 
  #45  
Old 04-03-2009, 02:21 PM
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Thanks for posting this, I go out my Dyno chart and non of the bad things you mentioned are on mine. I always wondered if my dealer was shotting straight or shotting crap.
 
  #46  
Old 04-03-2009, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by molsen
Harleytuner: You state that you set the afr to 13.3:1 to set a base. I am missing something here, that ratio in my estimation is low. How is the ecm going to learn a low afr and then go back to a leaner mixture. I know I am missing something. I am using a twin tec II+ with 2 wego o2 sensors in both pipes. From what I understood I set the afr value of what I want to achieve, in cruising for instance I choose 14.2:1 afr. I ride the bike and from what I had in my VE tables I am givin an adjustment parameter to adjust my ve tables to acheive my target afr. I then hook up my laptop and record info from SERT to see if I have any spark knock and adjust timing if needed.

My question is: the procedure I am doing is wrong. If so why? I just want to learn, as I stated in an earilier post tuners around me really do not know as much as yourself.
When I say we calibrate the bike to 13.2:1 AFR, that's not where we are telling the bike to run. That's were we are calibrating it at. Once we get it calibrated we can set the values back to Harle specs, or closer to them anyways. Let me try to explain it another way. Lets say your bike cruises at 55 MPH at 15% Throttle position and 2250 RPM's, Harley target AF is around 14.6:1. If you add high flow A/C and exhaust your bike will be alot leaner, so we have to "teach" your ECM, to do this we tell the ECM to seek 13.2:1, then we make a pass and see what it really is. We then make adjustments to correct the air flow and the fuel flow into the bike to get it as close to 13.2:1 as we can, once it's there, we can set your air fuel tables back to what Harley had, or close to it. I'll have to get some screen shots from super tuner and I can explain it easier.
 
  #47  
Old 04-03-2009, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by slack20
Harleytuner Still Waitin On A Response.???
Gimmee a break, I have a life and a job as well. Between this and the 30 PM's I got today with eople wanting answers, my wife, my 2 kids my job i'm a busy person. And if it wasn't raining here I wouldn't be typing this, i'd be on my bike.
 
  #48  
Old 04-03-2009, 09:37 PM
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Great post..... Harleytuner thanks for shedding some light on the subject for all of us not in the know.

sporty06
 
  #49  
Old 04-03-2009, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by harleytuner
You should expect them to spend some time on it. I've read on here that a tune should take no less than 4 hours, I have to respectfully disagree. I have dyno'd hundered to thousands of bikes and I have made quit a few of my own "canned maps", so when a bike comes in with a certain set up, chances are I already have a MAP close to it so I can load that MAP into the bike and start from there. This saves me time as a tuner but it also saves wear and tear on the customoers bikes. If I can load a map that is close, I can "fine tune" your bike alot quicker than if I was starting with a generic MAP. A full tune at our shop is $250, that's all, no more, no less. We don't charge by the hour, why should the customer pay if I am having a hard time with his bike/. Or if i'm having problems with the compter? Decel pp is a bitch, plain and simple. Some pipes are worse than others, I have found that id I adjust the fuel at the 0% throttle positions above the 1750 RPM range that I can limit decel pop severely. Alot of times I can eliminate it all together.

I am at their mercy, and I wish I knew some questions to ask the tuner I select to get an idea if he's blowin smoke or knows his stuff and will do right by me. Several tuners within a 100 miles of me and quite a variety of prices quoted.......

Thanks H-Tuner! It's nice to have people on here who can help us from time to time. Go enjoy your ride
 
  #50  
Old 04-03-2009, 10:56 PM
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Yea thanks H-turner...allot of good info.....also to steve good info....but i think like somebody said there are allot of tuners and allot of good tuners but most tuners are tuning for power not cruising....so everytime I have somebody ask me a question or advice I tell them to talk to the tech and have them tune for cruising if that is what they want or just power, but they should get the best of both worlds. I have done runs with some techs and worked on bikes and done tunes myself but a good run might take 3 hours or more, but most of the time like H-Tuner said he has canned maps he starts from as do most of the techs i know so that does speed them up.
 


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