Just a quick question: What should one expect from a "proficient tuner" as far as time on the Dyno and a ballpark price as to what we should be getting charged? I will be taking mine in the near future to be tuned with my SERT. My only mods are BUB 7's w/crossover and the S/E ventilator A/C.

After asking a few people on here "in the know" I myself have done the standard download with the SERT/laptop and maxed out the CLB's. Bike runs fine, starts fine, but has a slight amount of decel pop. That's it.

Thanks and great info.

 

Ok I can understand that and it does make sense, but how would it relate to a straight AFR line when youa re tunning for those results? Would the line still be straight, or would it fluctuate?

 

I run mine in 5th, the higher RPM's your engine is turning the harder it's working, more friction ='s more heat and stress on critical components.

 

[quote=ATC2;4805415]A/F is the air fuel ratio. We calibrate the bikes computer to 13.2:1 A/F, which means 13.2 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. Harley has set values of A/F for throttle positions and RPM ranges. For instance, newer Harleys cruising ranges are set to 14.6:1. When we tune a bike, we change Harley's setting to 13.2:1, that makes the computers target area to 13.2:1, we then make a dyno passes to see where your bike is running in it's configuration, (pipes, A/C, etc.), we make changes to the computer (ECM) to make it as to close to our goal 13.2:1 as possible, once we get it there the ECM is calibrated to the engine, we then set the ECM AFR back to what Harley wants or close to it.

 

You should expect them to spend some time on it. I've read on here that a tune should take no less than 4 hours, I have to respectfully disagree. I have dyno'd hundered to thousands of bikes and I have made quit a few of my own "canned maps", so when a bike comes in with a certain set up, chances are I already have a MAP close to it so I can load that MAP into the bike and start from there. This saves me time as a tuner but it also saves wear and tear on the customoers bikes. If I can load a map that is close, I can "fine tune" your bike alot quicker than if I was starting with a generic MAP. A full tune at our shop is $250, that's all, no more, no less. We don't charge by the hour, why should the customer pay if I am having a hard time with his bike/. Or if i'm having problems with the compter? Decel pp is a bitch, plain and simple. Some pipes are worse than others, I have found that id I adjust the fuel at the 0% throttle positions above the 1750 RPM range that I can limit decel pop severely. Alot of times I can eliminate it all together.

 

a million thanks again for taking the time and effort to share your knowldge with us.

 

You have to realize that when we tune a bike we are really just calibrating it. The ECM is targeting a certain A/F value at differn't throttle positions and RMP ranges. For instance, the stock bike is seeking a 14.6:1 AFR at 15% throttle and 2500 RPM (cruising speed), a stock bike will be running around that. BUT, if you add a high flow air filter, your bike might actually be getting say 15.8:1 AFR, (lean). That's why the bike need to be calibrated (tuned) to the new filter. So we (tuners) set the computers whole AFR range to 13.2:1 so it's consistant across the board. The we "teach" the computer what 13.3:1 AFR is on your bike. Once that is done, we set the ECM back to Harley's specs and your bike is tunes, well for the most part. After I do the AFR I usually make some timing adjustments and so on.

 

You bet man. It just irks me to see good people get taken advantage of by some of the "tuners" out there. They give all of us a bad name.

 

Harleytuner, great info broke down so all can understand. I get how a hi flow air cleaner creates a higher air to fuel ratio creating a leaner running bike. How do tru dual headpipes with certain slip-ons affect all this? Thanks again.

 

Is the DJ software setup to show the AFR at all throttle positions vs. rpm? Is the AFR line on the printout a true representation of the previous question or is it an avg. of all the WOT positions vs. rpm?
Do you use the DJ tunelink option, if so or not do you feel it is a viable tuning aid and why or why not? Also how much of your tuning process is devoted to timing? Do you utilize heat soak and drum loading in your process?
AP