Truth in dyno
#102
01-31-2010, 04:00 AM
Road Captain
You can adjust it to what you desire, but that doesn't mean that that's where it will be running. Unless it has been calibrated you're really not doing anything but enetering values. It can really be harmfull. Say you want to lean your bike out a little in a certain range, so you pull up your file and see that that range is set to 14.2:1 so you figure, sure, I can go a little leaner and bump it up to 14.6:1 and you think your safe.. But if your bike wasn't calibrated right in that range to begin with, it might actually be running leaner, say even just a little, could be realistically running at 15.4:1.
No Doubt! setting up an afr table MEANS NOTHING if you have not calibrated the VE tables!
but i would not agree with going back to harleys fuel map.... definately not in more performance builds.. you have to dial the afr in by what the scoot and tools are telling you.
and if the timming table you start with with is way off either way this will effect the ve table and require another ve run to make sure the calibration is still good. (doesnt happen too often)
and yeap, love the tuners that say it was tuned for performance not fuel milage...horse dookie! hello its electronic tune... why would you want performance at 15% tps... tune for cruising ( i ask what speeds they run at so im sure to get there target area) and then you go ahead and work out the upper tps for performance.. my 120 motor got 42 mpg at 75mph traveled all across the country.
good thread Htuner...
#103
01-31-2010, 06:36 AM
I am in the process of finishing up a 103 build on my 08 RG. I have a SERT. I will have the bike tuned properly after some break-in miles.
Whats the best way to get a "safe" tune to break-in the motor before having it properly tuned?
I assume I will select a map that is close to my build and just hope for the best for the first 1000 miles?
Is there anything I can do to the canned map untill break-in is over?
Thanks for your time,
Doug
Whats the best way to get a "safe" tune to break-in the motor before having it properly tuned?
I assume I will select a map that is close to my build and just hope for the best for the first 1000 miles?
Is there anything I can do to the canned map untill break-in is over?
Thanks for your time,
Doug
#104
01-31-2010, 06:45 AM
Tourer
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tampa Fl
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Interesting
Being a dyno tuner it troubles me to see some of your printouts posted on here. Their are different units of measure to measure horse power and torque. The main 2 I see here is STD and SAE. STD is a unit that is used over in Europe and is about 2 - 3% higher than SAE (which is how we measure H.P. in the States). So if your printout says STD smoothing anywhere on it, and you live in the states, than your tuner is giving you false info. There is only 2 reasons I can think of that tuners would do this, 1 is that they just don't know any better and 2 is that they are trying to have higher #'s to make them look better. The other thing that bugs me is some of the A/F lines I see, or lack of. Bottom line is, if they can't read your A/F then they CANNOT perform a full tune, if they don't have a 250 dyno, they CANNOT perform a full tune. If they give you a "full tune" and don't show you the A/F calibration then they are hiding something. If you do have the A/F on your printout, it should be relatively a straight line, at around 13.2 : 1. Anything below that line is rich and anything above it is lean. That's NOT where your bike is running, (when you get it back) that is just where it is calibrated. Your Dyno lines should be smooth, when they get real wavy, usually at higher RPM's then your timing is probably off.
I have seen many posters on here that attempt to tune there own bikes off of their dyno printout, It can't be done properly. Your printout is only showing 1 cylinder at full throttle, it might me totally different at other throttle positions, so if your printout shows your bike is running rich at 2500 RPM's and you decide to lean it out a little across the board, guess what? Your bike might of already been lean at cruising and you just leaned it out more.
I have seen many posters on here that attempt to tune there own bikes off of their dyno printout, It can't be done properly. Your printout is only showing 1 cylinder at full throttle, it might me totally different at other throttle positions, so if your printout shows your bike is running rich at 2500 RPM's and you decide to lean it out a little across the board, guess what? Your bike might of already been lean at cruising and you just leaned it out more.
#105
01-31-2010, 07:52 AM
If the dyno is maintained,set up right and calibrated, your readings should be fine. Your bikes has to be maintained as well, proper tirepressure, is important, temperarues are important to. So I guess the answer would be YES, it is possile to get a bad dyno read out.
#106
01-31-2010, 07:56 AM
I am in the process of finishing up a 103 build on my 08 RG. I have a SERT. I will have the bike tuned properly after some break-in miles.
Whats the best way to get a "safe" tune to break-in the motor before having it properly tuned?
I assume I will select a map that is close to my build and just hope for the best for the first 1000 miles?
Is there anything I can do to the canned map untill break-in is over?
Thanks for your time,
Doug
Whats the best way to get a "safe" tune to break-in the motor before having it properly tuned?
I assume I will select a map that is close to my build and just hope for the best for the first 1000 miles?
Is there anything I can do to the canned map untill break-in is over?
Thanks for your time,
Doug
Last edited by harleytuner; 01-31-2010 at 07:58 AM.
#107
01-31-2010, 09:06 AM
Club Member
#108
01-31-2010, 09:53 AM
Stellar HDF Member
I am in the process of finishing up a 103 build on my 08 RG. I have a SERT. I will have the bike tuned properly after some break-in miles.
Whats the best way to get a "safe" tune to break-in the motor before having it properly tuned?
I assume I will select a map that is close to my build and just hope for the best for the first 1000 miles?
Is there anything I can do to the canned map untill break-in is over?
Thanks for your time,
Doug
Whats the best way to get a "safe" tune to break-in the motor before having it properly tuned?
I assume I will select a map that is close to my build and just hope for the best for the first 1000 miles?
Is there anything I can do to the canned map untill break-in is over?
Thanks for your time,
Doug
#110
01-31-2010, 12:08 PM
Last summer someone posted a chart with numbers lower than expected, and Jamie at Fuel Moto came in to explain that humidity and temperature was higher than ideal on that run (too hot and too humid), which biased the results. Well, don't these dynos have settings to automatically adjust for these changing conditions? It ought to be something that could be just dialed in, or automatically compiled by on-board instruments.
If you do have the A/F on your printout, it should be relatively a straight line, at around 13.2 : 1. Anything below that line is rich and anything above it is lean.
Good points on the need for a full tune, not just at WOT.
Last edited by iclick; 01-31-2010 at 12:12 PM.