changed fairing can not install lock back help
#22
03-31-2009, 07:18 AM
Road Warrior
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: South of Raleigh, and west of the coast, NC.
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1) Make sure the forks are to the left and locked. If they are not locked, turn the forks left and then stick the screwdriver all the way to the bottom and turn it left while jiggling the bars on the left stop until the forks lock.
2) Look in the hole with a flashlight. You will see the switch plate half-way down the hole, this is what turns when you move the ignition switch to on, run and accessory. Make sure the tabs on the switch plate are lined up like in this photo:
If the tabs aren't lined up properly you will need to line them up using the screwdriver. Stick it in part-way until it contacts the switch plate. Line it up so the slots are lined up at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock when looking down in the hole.
3) Insert the switch assembly. Place the spring on the shaft and insert the lock in with the lock pointed towards the "fork lock" position. Make sure the key is still in the keyhole and turned all the way to the left 60º. Refer to this photo:
4) If you've got it aligned properly, the lock will bottom out all the way in and you need to hold it in with your hand and turn the key to engage the locking tab that holds it in:
5) Now the switch should be in with the forks locked. Re-insert the key and unlock the forks like normal. Go for a ride!!!
Good Luck!!
2) Look in the hole with a flashlight. You will see the switch plate half-way down the hole, this is what turns when you move the ignition switch to on, run and accessory. Make sure the tabs on the switch plate are lined up like in this photo:
If the tabs aren't lined up properly you will need to line them up using the screwdriver. Stick it in part-way until it contacts the switch plate. Line it up so the slots are lined up at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock when looking down in the hole.
3) Insert the switch assembly. Place the spring on the shaft and insert the lock in with the lock pointed towards the "fork lock" position. Make sure the key is still in the keyhole and turned all the way to the left 60º. Refer to this photo:
4) If you've got it aligned properly, the lock will bottom out all the way in and you need to hold it in with your hand and turn the key to engage the locking tab that holds it in:
5) Now the switch should be in with the forks locked. Re-insert the key and unlock the forks like normal. Go for a ride!!!
Good Luck!!
Excellent write-up and pics too.........Dayum......Good job scotty3...!!!!
#23
03-31-2009, 08:35 AM
Road Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Connecticut
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Check this out, it will help:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...on-switch.html
It's a PITA but will go right back in once you line everything up with a screwdriver.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...on-switch.html
It's a PITA but will go right back in once you line everything up with a screwdriver.
#24
03-31-2009, 09:01 AM
Road Warrior
#25
03-31-2009, 09:41 AM
#27
03-31-2009, 10:28 AM
Tourer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Los Altos, CA/ Sonora, CA
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If all the formentioned does not work and the ignition switch fully depresses but will not "click" and lock, the problem lies in the switch. Turning the switch over you will notice a small hole next to the button which needs to be depressed. In the hole will be a metalic tab with a small gap above it. Inserting a small tool into the gap, slide the metalic tab to creat a larger gap. The tab will click when in the propper position. Press the small button again making sure the tab stays in place. You may have to play with this a bit.
Side note: If you have installed an aftermarket braided clutch cable per manual and the ignition is fully installed but the forks will not lock, the new cable is blocking the fork travel to the fork stop and the cable needs to be re routed on the opposite side of the crash bar. Good luck, Roger (sgchick's other half)
Side note: If you have installed an aftermarket braided clutch cable per manual and the ignition is fully installed but the forks will not lock, the new cable is blocking the fork travel to the fork stop and the cable needs to be re routed on the opposite side of the crash bar. Good luck, Roger (sgchick's other half)
#28
03-31-2009, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Warrenton, VA
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Like everyone else I also had this problem, I found that if you leave the forks in the straight ahead position and the ignition switch **** turned to the off position before you remove **** this dosn't happen because there is no need to put the **** back in to unlock forks. If you need to put the **** back in to turn power on after removing the fairing cap, PUT THE SPACERS AND SPRING BACK UNDER ****, this keeps things from getting out off line. When reassemling it is easier for me to remember that everthing was pointed staight ahead when I took it apart. Know go out in the garage and try it...works great.
#29
03-31-2009, 02:18 PM
THANKS to all for help