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Tightening the Drive Belt

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  #11  
Old 03-27-2009 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Welcome to HDF!

You say your buddy has the manual for his bike. You should also have the manual for your bike! The ritual is the same for both. If you don't have a factory workshop manual for your bike, now is the time to get one....
Thanks for the welcome but I've been around a while. We do most of the work at my house since I have a lift table and since we both have the same bike we only bought one manual and share it.

WAGSRK08 thanks for the info. I was reading the same thing in our manual. I guess we will take the right muffler off and do it from there. The HD tool would be nice but HD dealer wants about $38.00 for it and would have to order it. I've never had to adjust mine in between tire changes !! Thanks for all the info guys.
 
  #12  
Old 03-27-2009 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ojgp
There's an elliptical washer welded to the left side of the axle and a corresponding like washer that fits on the axle, right side. Check the belt tension with a tension guage, remove the axle nut retaining ring (right side), loosen the axle nut to "barely snug", turn the axle (right side) clockwise to tighten. Just a little bit at a time too...things tighten up quickly. Once you're "there" hold what you just turned and properly torque the axle nut. Then recheck the belt tension. Do it over if you dick it up. Don't forget to re-install the retaining ring. Free advice - consult a shop manual for the specific year, use a belt tension guage, and use a torque wrench. Doing it "by feel" is appropriate for use on members of the opposite sex...not on yours or someone elses' motorcycle. Replacing a belt is a major job...but if properly maintained they last a good long time.
I think you loosen the right side nut (caliper side) and adjust from the left side nut (pulley/belt).
 
  #13  
Old 03-27-2009 | 07:43 PM
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Yeah I misspoke but obviously ya got the picture...
 
  #14  
Old 03-28-2009 | 12:21 AM
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First post on this site. Been lurking for a year of so. Bought my first Harley last summer, a new 08 RKC. Love it!. Been riding steady on the street for a decade. Did my own 5K service at 4K. I bought the service manual. It does not say rather you check the belt hot or cold. As someone wrote earlier, it is much looser when cold. Too tight when hot. Is the nut 36mm or 1 3/8? I don't have a wrench big enough yet but I mic'ed it @ 1 3/8 inches. Which one would fit better? This is a great site with alot of good information.
Thanks
Ron
 
  #15  
Old 03-28-2009 | 06:42 AM
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seems to me that the pulley and cog in belt would hit the same spot over and over, unless slipping is occuring (hope not,way too loose) maybe thats why they say you should change pulley when changing belt, so that they wear in matched together..jmo
 
  #16  
Old 03-28-2009 | 08:04 AM
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It is highly unlikely the same cog is hitting the same nub on the belt. Do the math. It would have to be a perfect multiple and even then it would only contact on the multiple. I think the point of replacing the sproket is that if you do the belt will last longer. It seems to me that the labor and trouble of changing the belt probably excedes the cost of changing sprocket. I guess the front one must be harder if they dont suggest changing it also. Usually the smaller sheave or sprocket is replaced more often than the larger one. With fans and blowers it is usual to have a smaller drive sheave wear out several times before any significant wear is detected on the large driven sheave. Most of the people I talk to have not ever had a problem with this belt drive once it is set up properly on a stock or mostly stock motorcycle.
 
  #17  
Old 03-28-2009 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by GatorbaitRKC
First post on this site. Been lurking for a year of so. Bought my first Harley last summer, a new 08 RKC. Love it!. Been riding steady on the street for a decade. Did my own 5K service at 4K. I bought the service manual. It does not say rather you check the belt hot or cold. As someone wrote earlier, it is much looser when cold. Too tight when hot. Is the nut 36mm or 1 3/8? I don't have a wrench big enough yet but I mic'ed it @ 1 3/8 inches. Which one would fit better? This is a great site with alot of good information.
Thanks
Ron
Ron,

Check your belt when the bike is cold and set it correctly then. Checking things often is not always good for the heart!

Can't answer the spanner size (my bike has smaller sizes), but Harleys haven't gone fully metric yet, to my knowledge. The battery terminals on my old Harley are metric and that is the extent of it!
 
  #18  
Old 03-28-2009 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by GatorbaitRKC
First post on this site. Been lurking for a year of so. Bought my first Harley last summer, a new 08 RKC. Love it!. Been riding steady on the street for a decade. Did my own 5K service at 4K. I bought the service manual. It does not say rather you check the belt hot or cold. As someone wrote earlier, it is much looser when cold. Too tight when hot. Is the nut 36mm or 1 3/8? I don't have a wrench big enough yet but I mic'ed it @ 1 3/8 inches. Which one would fit better? This is a great site with alot of good information.
Thanks
Ron
I just use 12" crescent wrenches fr HF.
 
  #19  
Old 03-28-2009 | 12:41 PM
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Rear Belt Drive Adjustment
Performance and Technical information on the rear belt drive for Harley-Davidson motorcycles.Belt Drive Adjustment for Big Twins
  • Set belt tension a the tightest rotational point on the sprockets.
  • The adjustments should be done when the bike is cold.
  • The adjustments should be made with the weight of a rider on the bike.
1. At the lower strand, position "A", mid-way between transmission sprocket and rear wheel sprocket, apply 10 Ibs. of upward force on lower span of rear belt. Harley-Davidson has a BELT TENSION GAUGE (Part No. HD-35381) to help.
2. Measure belt deflection "B" several times, each time with belt moved (by rotating rear wheel) to a different position on sprockets. With sprockets rotated to tightest belt posi-tion, belt deflection "B" (measured at position "A") should be 5/16-3/8 in.
ADJUSTMENT
1. Loosen rear axle nuts.
2. Measure each side from the flat to the end of the swingarm, to be sure rear axle is correctly located.
3. Turn axle adjuster nuts (metric) on each side of swing-arm to adjust belt deflection.
a. Turn clockwise to decrease deflection (increase tension).
b. Turn counterclockwise to increase belt deflection (decrease tension).
Turn each adjuster nut exactly the same number of turns to maintain rear wheel alignment.
5. Tighten axle nut to 60-65 ft-lbs.
CAUTION

Keep dirt, grease, oil, and debris off the belt and sprockets. Clean the belt with a rag which is slightly damp with light cleaning agent.
All belts must be handled carefully to prevent bending stress. The belt must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5 inches in diameter and never be bent backwards. Sharp bending can weaken the belt and lead to premature failure. Old belts that are taken off a bike during repairs must be reinstalled so they rotate the same direction.
Tricks of the trade

With a high horsepower engine, it is better to have the belt a little tight rather than loose. A loose belt will break much more readily than a tight one. Most people do not tighten the belt to its proper tension. If you plan on "racing" or hot rodding your bike, invest in a Harley-Davidson BELT TENSION GAUGE (Part No. HD-35381).
 
  #20  
Old 03-28-2009 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by blueskyregion
Rear Belt Drive Adjustment
Performance and Technical information on the rear belt drive for Harley-Davidson motorcycles.Belt Drive Adjustment for Big Twins
  • Set belt tension a the tightest rotational point on the sprockets.
  • The adjustments should be done when the bike is cold.
  • The adjustments should be made with the weight of a rider on the bike.
1. At the lower strand, position "A", mid-way between transmission sprocket and rear wheel sprocket, apply 10 Ibs. of upward force on lower span of rear belt. Harley-Davidson has a BELT TENSION GAUGE (Part No. HD-35381) to help.
2. Measure belt deflection "B" several times, each time with belt moved (by rotating rear wheel) to a different position on sprockets. With sprockets rotated to tightest belt posi-tion, belt deflection "B" (measured at position "A") should be 5/16-3/8 in.
ADJUSTMENT
1. Loosen rear axle nuts.
2. Measure each side from the flat to the end of the swingarm, to be sure rear axle is correctly located.
3. Turn axle adjuster nuts (metric) on each side of swing-arm to adjust belt deflection.
a. Turn clockwise to decrease deflection (increase tension).
b. Turn counterclockwise to increase belt deflection (decrease tension).
Turn each adjuster nut exactly the same number of turns to maintain rear wheel alignment.
5. Tighten axle nut to 60-65 ft-lbs.
CAUTION

Keep dirt, grease, oil, and debris off the belt and sprockets. Clean the belt with a rag which is slightly damp with light cleaning agent.
All belts must be handled carefully to prevent bending stress. The belt must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5 inches in diameter and never be bent backwards. Sharp bending can weaken the belt and lead to premature failure. Old belts that are taken off a bike during repairs must be reinstalled so they rotate the same direction.
Tricks of the trade

With a high horsepower engine, it is better to have the belt a little tight rather than loose. A loose belt will break much more readily than a tight one. Most people do not tighten the belt to its proper tension. If you plan on "racing" or hot rodding your bike, invest in a Harley-Davidson BELT TENSION GAUGE (Part No. HD-35381).
That sure helps with questions nice job good find
 


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