i assume you mean the derby cover, and i'd say anti-seize is not a bad idea, alot less risk of stripping those torx heads next time you go to take it off.

 

I had the same problem with my 09 RKC at the 1000 mile service. The fix for me was to tighten the adjuster in the clutch pack a little beyond "lightly seated" (IMO)... But first, when you loosen the cable adjustment (in front of the front cylinder) only loosen it to the point where the clutch lever rests against then handlebar. Don't go any further than that... Then when you're adjusting the clutch basket, go a little beyone "lightly seated", and you should see the clutch lever start to pull away from the handlebar. Squeeze the lever a few times, then backout the clutch basket screw, then repeat a few times until it gets seated well. If you do it right, then you should only have to use up maybe half of the adjustment rod at the 1st cylinder.

 

That last post is how I do mine,lightly hold your fingers on the clutch lever while moving the set screw on the clutch pack in and out,this will give you the idea of where lightly seated is,when the lever moves towards the front it is not seated,move the screw ,untill the clutch lever returns to the bar,screw it back in to get the feel of where you are at,tighten locknut,work lever back and fourth a few times,then adjust to the proper slack at clutch perch.

 

This video might help:
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/1...clutch-two.htm

 

SteveB FLH's video should help. If not try the HDTalking forum put in Clutch cable adjustment this video and another on this forum guide you through both the clutch pack and cable adjustment.

I used the video when I replaced my Handle bars and clutch cable.

 

I think I figured out the problem. If you loosen the clutch cable till the lever hit the throtle then you are adjusting the front brake cable!

 

I just did my 1000 mi service and everything seems to be working okay so no problems there. However, I hate doing something without really knowing what it's doing. Can someone give a simple explanation of what the adjustment is actually doing?

Also--and this is a very dumb question--is the friction zone always near the point where the clutch lever is all the way out? I never really paid attention before, but I could have sworn is was more toward the middle of the lever travel. Did I maybe not do the adjustment correctly?

 

I screwed up my adj the first time by not knowing when the adj screw just touched. Screwed it out till loose then went in with it found the spot and backed out 1/2 turn.Now works just fine.

 

I was going to post that too but I restrained myself..........Hopefully it was a typo on the posters part....

 

The first time I adjusted my clutch pack my cable did the same thing. I had to go back in the derby cover and play several times with the adjustment screw until I figured out how to set it.
My clutch cable did the exact same thing as yours. I had screwed in the set screw about a half turn to far then turned it back out. when I follow that video I could not get the cable to adjust. make sure you turn in the set screw until it is lightly seated, pull the clutch handle a few times to set the ***** in the ramp(don't worry f you do not know where the ***** are, they are on the cable side of the tranny), turn out the set screw one full turn, tighten lock nut, adjust the cable. easy enough huh?
well if the cable does not adjust and you set the set screw correctly(lightly seated) you have turned out the set screw to far. do it again and this time turn it out 3/4 of a turn lock it down and give it all a try. if still bad, then do it again 1/2 turn. if it still will not adjust you are over doing the lightly seated. start over and do not tighten the set screw so much.