I pulled my plugs and brought them over to my local auto mechanic...who happens to be a Harley freak. He said the bike is running too rich.

Here's my question.......

Since I have a PCIII with the proper download (according to PC tech support), then why is my bike running rich?

Shouldn't it be more or less where it should be?

 

I put the pcIII on my bike and used the download that matched my pipes, had it dynoed yesterday and the guy who dynoed it for me did a lot of tuning to the map to get it where it needed to be.

 

If you did some idling before pulling the plugs, they will probably show signs of being rich. Doesn't mean that they are not right at speed.

I check mine by riding at about 60 mph, pulling in the clutch, shutting off of the engine and coasting to a stop. Then check what the plugs look like. Make sure that you have anti-sieze on the plug threads before you try to pull them from a hot engine.

I would think that if the bike is running good, and is not fouling plugs, it is probably pretty close. If it was very rich you would be experiencing some plug fouling. Also keep in mind, better a little rich than too lean.

Just an opinion.

Regards,

Bill

 

The canned map for your set up is close, but only a dyno will tune it in so you are right on. I was running a PC III with download to match my set up for a little over 1000 miles before the dyno. I told the dyno tech I thought I was rich, (which was better than the stock lean) that on decell it popped quite a bit, and now and then when I wanted to take off there was a Phuuuuffff like almost a back fire.

After 7 runs on the dyno with tuning he got it all tuned in and we/he found that at idle and just off idle I had a nasty lean spike, and about 3500 my A/F was on the rich side. Now my A/F curve is very close to the 13 line that they shoot for and the lean spike is no longer a spike. To date I haven't had the take off problem, the decell is now rumbling and running in 1st and 2nd is a lot easier now. (trying to go slow in the neiborhood)

If you have at least 1000 miles on the engine I'd suggest a dyno tune to smooth things out and the print out will give you confidence that your A/F ratios are correct.

Oh Ya I went from 69 to 73 HP and 77 to 79 for torque. Before and after dyno print out.

 

Your not riding it hard enough .
Go back and try it again and again.

 

take out your baffles that'll lean it out

 

Here's a close up look for ya:
Taken with my super macro lens.

Notice the metal shavings from the new (1K) engine.

 

i dont think youre too rich...notice the heat on the threads...you need to see at least 2 but not more than 4 threads discolored, that tells you youre timing is correct, it could take another degree or two bc the discoloration on the strap does not travel to the bend...an extra degree of timing will burn fuel, this is a way of leaning one out without taking fuel away(remember, a motor needs fuel to make power)...also, the edges of your electrode are sharp which is good(no build up from over rich crud and no melt down from lean)...the tan is almost too tan but i'm bettin its from idling....its true if you really want a good read to run it about 60 or so and pull in the clutch and shut it off, then read em...but if you'll run it normal for bout 300 miles it will do just fine for an accurate plug read...as for the metal, could be sharp new threads just breakin in...there's not enough heat on those plugs to melt a piston...look down inside the plug to where the insulator meets the plug, you should see black on the insulator from the bottom about 1/4 way up...it will be the cleanest if you dont idle on it before checkin it....oh, & tighten your header bolts to relieve the poppin on decel

cool camera bro

 

Plug does not look too rich to me. I fact, it looks pretty good. No black, sooty look(rich), and not white(lean).

Regards,

Bill