best AIR FUEL RATIO
#41
It's not a generic diagnostic code reader from Auto Zone, its a purpose built harware/software package that allows you to manipulate and reprogram your factory ECM, no different than any other software you buy, you can load it on only one computer, unless you purchase a corporate license. I believe you can purchase a multiple bike license with the TTS.
#42
#43
I saw "last post" by fabrik8r and thought cool, let's see what he's got to say. Usually some pretty good perspectives when it comes to technical issues.
Then I read the post and all it's talking about is some software licensing.
****! I was hoping for something better than that LOL.
Then I read the post and all it's talking about is some software licensing.
****! I was hoping for something better than that LOL.
#44
I'm in the same boat, but do know that with at least two flash-based tuners (PV and TTS) you can specify the maximum amount of retard that can be implemented. The default on my '07 was 8° but I lowered it to 4°. The retard function senses "incipient knock" and can sometimes snuff-out the audible part before it happens, but if you have a problem you can usually get an audible knock by going to the range that induces it and sharply crack the throttle open and put the engine under a load. Before I bought the PV and could monitor this I would raise spark advance until I got the audible knock, then back-off 2°. That was the way I tuned it and after getting the PV verified that this was indeed where it needed to be. I'm actually able to add 1-3° in the cruise range even with the 255 cams and lean AFRs I'm using.
Last edited by iclick; 11-16-2011 at 12:51 PM.
#45
The knock retard is a "reaction" to the event. When it removes timing it is a fast knock retard that removes much more timing than needed. If you see 4 degrees on a data log you have to look back a few frames to see what caused the event. Then as a general rule of thumb remove half of what you see.
#46
FWIW but slightly OT, my datalogs almost always show some intermittent false-knock on the front cylinder, usually evident several times during a datalog run. It usually retards up to 2° (rarely the maximum 4°) and lasts only a second or less, and if I adjust by retarding the spark-advance in that area it doesn't change the behavior. I once pulled-out 10° as an experiment and it still occurred. Jamie said this is not uncommon and to just run it, as it won't hurt anything, and that makes sense to me. There's no audible knock when this happens and it only occurs at about ~20% TP (~60 KPA) and 2000-2300 rpm, which is very light load at cruising speed.
Last edited by iclick; 11-16-2011 at 01:19 PM.
#47
One wouldn't expect that you'd feel much difference in seat-of-the-pants performance evaluation between a good EFI map and an across the board 13:1 spec since 13.0 is just about best power AFR for normally aspirated engines. Many early mechanical FI units were designed for 13:1 across the board. The advantage of EFI over mechanical FI is that the programmer can create a map that leans the AFR away from best-power where it is not needed, and thereby improve mileage.
I only keep the richer map (13.0 across-the-board) for those times when the bike heats up more than I'm comfortable with. When oil-temps hit 230° and CHT is >300° I start to think about the switch. With the PCV I could flip a switch on-the-fly and achieve the change, but with PV I must stop the engine and flash the ECM on the side of the road with the display unit that I always have attached to the handlebars. I only had to do this once this past summer.
#49
The knock retard is a "reaction" to the event. When it removes timing it is a fast knock retard that removes much more timing than needed. If you see 4 degrees on a data log you have to look back a few frames to see what caused the event. Then as a general rule of thumb remove half of what you see.
Last edited by iclick; 11-16-2011 at 01:23 PM.
#50
I wonder if knock control has been turned off on your bike. If you bought it new that shouldn't happen unless you attached a flash-based tuner and made changes, but since you run a PCV I would imagine that hasn't happened. Have you checked with the dealer to get it looked at in warranty? What is their attitude about installing third-party tuners?