You can't get a corporate licence but you can buy a 2 bike dongle, or send yours back to be upgraded to one if you change bikes and don't want to give it to the new owner. With any of these types of tuners you can data log anyones bike, they are only married to the one bike for programming. As long as you are running the bike in closed loop you can set your cruise area to 14.6 with a clb around 760 or lambda .981-.988. Your o2 or lambda sensors will be able to adjust for different fuels. If you are running open then you will need to adjust accordingly and set your cruise afr to 14.2-3, or lambda .967-.974 to be safe.

 

OK, that makes a little more sense. I can go with that. Thanks for the info!

 

Sorry bout that, My TTS knowledge limited, but I am working on a post that you will be interested in though.

 

I'm in the same boat, but do know that with at least two flash-based tuners (PV and TTS) you can specify the maximum amount of retard that can be implemented. The default on my '07 was 8° but I lowered it to 4°. The retard function senses "incipient knock" and can sometimes snuff-out the audible part before it happens, but if you have a problem you can usually get an audible knock by going to the range that induces it and sharply crack the throttle open and put the engine under a load. Before I bought the PV and could monitor this I would raise spark advance until I got the audible knock, then back-off 2°. That was the way I tuned it and after getting the PV verified that this was indeed where it needed to be. I'm actually able to add 1-3° in the cruise range even with the 255 cams and lean AFRs I'm using.

 

The knock retard is a "reaction" to the event. When it removes timing it is a fast knock retard that removes much more timing than needed. If you see 4 degrees on a data log you have to look back a few frames to see what caused the event. Then as a general rule of thumb remove half of what you see.

 

BTW, when it starts to ping and you keep the engine under load, does the detonation stop or decrease? It should if the knock-retard function is working properly, assuming spark advance isn't far outside of its ideal setting. I don't know about your new bike, but my '07 will pull out 8° with the default setting, and that should be enough to stop the noise soon after it starts. As I mentioned earlier this setting is adjustable with TTS and PV, possibly other flash-based tuners too. Anyone know if SEPST will do this?

FWIW but slightly OT, my datalogs almost always show some intermittent false-knock on the front cylinder, usually evident several times during a datalog run. It usually retards up to 2° (rarely the maximum 4°) and lasts only a second or less, and if I adjust by retarding the spark-advance in that area it doesn't change the behavior. I once pulled-out 10° as an experiment and it still occurred. Jamie said this is not uncommon and to just run it, as it won't hurt anything, and that makes sense to me. There's no audible knock when this happens and it only occurs at about ~20% TP (~60 KPA) and 2000-2300 rpm, which is very light load at cruising speed.

 

This is the way I've tuned ever since my PCIII days and it works very well on this bike. I don't understand all the hoopla over richer AFRs in the cruise range, as I feel little or no difference in throttle-response nor radiated heat. I do run an oil-cooler which keeps peak temps in control, and I think this makes a big difference. As I mentioned before, I ran some tests on an 85° day running 13.5 and 14.6 during a backroads cruise and saw only 7° difference in FCHT and oil temps didn't change at all that I could see on my HD fairing-mounted gauge.

I only keep the richer map (13.0 across-the-board) for those times when the bike heats up more than I'm comfortable with. When oil-temps hit 230° and CHT is >300° I start to think about the switch. With the PCV I could flip a switch on-the-fly and achieve the change, but with PV I must stop the engine and flash the ECM on the side of the road with the display unit that I always have attached to the handlebars. I only had to do this once this past summer.

 

No it does not. I have zeroed the timing tables in my map so the timing is at factory levels.

 

I mentioned my "false knock events" in an earlier post. The event happens only on the front cylinder at about 20% TP and 70 KPA at my usual cruising RPM (2200-2500), a condition I might see in a strong headwind at 65mph in 6th gear. I've retarded up to 10° and the events continue, so Jamie advised that I leave it alone with no adjustment. In my last datalog run it happened once and lasted <1 sec., starting at 2° retard and decreasing in .5° increments until it stops. When I look back at the datalog, the conditions usually have not changed at all, happening as KPA and TP had stayed the same for quite a bit of time before that. Attached are three JPGs that represent one of these events. The columns (left to right) represent sequence, time, CHT °F, TP, Lambda 1, Lambda2, RPM, Spark Knock F, Spark Knock R, Set AFR, MAP, VE New F, VE New R, Acel Enr, Warm-up AFR. This particular event goes up to about 2700 rpm, but I usually see it only below 2500. Also note that Lambda was quite lean when it started (1.04), but that isn't always the case and I've seen it start at 1.0 or even lower. This is the only datalog I have on hand right now, so my examples are limited.

 

I wonder if knock control has been turned off on your bike. If you bought it new that shouldn't happen unless you attached a flash-based tuner and made changes, but since you run a PCV I would imagine that hasn't happened. Have you checked with the dealer to get it looked at in warranty? What is their attitude about installing third-party tuners?