OK I am in same boat.. I want to run my fog lamps whenever I want and not have then turn off when you go Hi Beam. I have part number 68913-98B. the wiring diagra is gone. I tried going direct wiring to ground and battery and the darn wires heated up and started melting!!

Suggestions???

 

When you say wiring direct to battery and ground, do you mean with your own wires, or somehow using the wiring harness? If wired w/ your own wires, what gauge wire were you using?

I ended up using the wiring harness that came with it and had no problems. All I did was cut the two wires that go to the switch out of the loop, so the red wire coming out of the switch was obviously not needed anymore, and the white wire that came out of the fuse and into the switch is now the trigger wire.

I cut that white wire about the same place where the red wire was length wise, and pulled the white wire back through the loom out towards the fuse and relay.

So then, if you look at my photo on page 6 of this thread, on the left side, the switch and wires are not there, all I'm left with are the 4 leads that go to the lights. On the right side, I have the fuse, relay and ground wires at bottom. Then in addition to the white power lead on top right, I now also have the newly cut white trigger wire after pulling back through the loom.

So, the existing white power wire can be connected to the battery, or the fuse block directly in front of the battery, or wherever you want to get your power. Then the newly cut white power wire can be connected to the accessory connector, at the pin that is wired into the accessory switch.

This is all I know to suggest, because this is how I chose to do it, for a clean install to meet my needs.

I chose to buy the deutsch connector splitter from the dealer, as well as the female connector pieces to use for this install. I intended to come back and post pics of what I did and provide more detail, but haven't gotten around to it yet.

In case you're unfamiliar, here is a thread that talks about the b+ connectors on 04 and newer touring bikes, and the ACC connectors (w/ the deutsch connectors) on all touring bikes to provide a couple pics and description of them: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...onnectors.html

I have an 03 RKC, so I don't have the b+ connector which makes main juice connections easier, but I did have the ACC connector w/ the deutsch pins, which as I said, I bought from the dealer the stuff I needed to connect into it. Then I took my hot white wires, threaded them through the necessary holes in the connector pieces, took it back to the dealer, and had a tech crimp em for me (since the tool to crimp those properly is very expensive, and I didn't need to do this all the time, they didn't charge me to crimp the wires).

It has 4 pins in it, one is ground, one is operated w/ the ACC switch, one is connected to the ignition, and I think one coincides w/ the taillight or something. I ended up just wiring the ground wires from the wiring kit to the negative ground block that the battery and everything connects to, since I had multiple ground wires w/ ring connectors, it seemed just cleaner to do this. I chose to take both my hot white wires and run them into the accessory connector. The main power one goes into the ignition pin, and the trigger one goes into the accessory switch. This way, I can't run the fog lights unless BOTH the ignition AND the accessory switch is on. This prevents me from accidentally running them or having to manually shut them off, while the ignition is in the accessory position. This also made it easier to install, since I was already running the trigger wire into the acc deutsch connector, might as well run both white hot wires into it, so I can easily disconnect it if I ever needed to.

Once I got my head around it, I liked this install, because I could use the existing wiring kit, w/ little modification, did not have to fabricate wires to plug into the bullet connectors on the lights, or mutiliate the wiring kit to use its leads, did not require splicing into anything on the bike, so everything remains as the moco intended, fwiw, and I can still easily add another accessory if need be, since I have the splitter to add more stuff.

I'll try to post more pics when I can, but I hope this helps you in some way.

 

You can just bypass the harness and relay that came with the lights and wire it directly to the battery. Go get a simple on/off toggle switch. Under your seat on the frame are some holes that fit the toggle switch perfectly. Just put it in from under the seat tighten the holding nut and wire it up. Very simple. I have my led's wired that way. It is easy to reach under with my right hand and flip them on or off when ever I want. It is also an easy to find the switch. Right under your right butt cheek on the frame behind the rear head.

 

Well, my project has been done for awhile, but I did notice the switch they provided with the unit would also fit in one of those holes you're talking about, but since I found how easy it was to use the harness they provided, cut the switch out of the process, and instead tie into the accessory connector under the seat, and use the acc switch instead, that worked fine for me.

I might add another accessory to the bike sometime though and will use that hole for something. I thought it would be a great place for a switch for those that do those LED accent light kits, for example.

 

Not in NEVADA...

The law also allows the use of not more than two “auxiliary passing lamps” mounted on the front of the vehicle “at a height of not less than 24 inches nor more than 42 inches” in height. NRS 484.577(3). A vehicle may also have two fog lamps on the front of the vehicle at “not less than 12 inches nor more than 30 inches” in height, as long as none of the high-intensity portion of the left light projects ahead 25 feet at a level higher than 4 inches below the center of the lamp. NRS 484.577(4). While all of these lights are allowed on a vehicle, Nevada state law says that, whenever any of these auxiliary or other lamps on the front project a beam of greater than 300 candle power, not more than four such lamps may be lighted at any one time while the vehicle is on a highway. NRS 484.591(2).

 

I have an 07 FLHX, and installed the crash bar mounted fog lights as per directions. I recently bought the 'spot' switch to put in my switch panel to turn the lights on / off eliminating the handle bar mounted on / off switch, this works perfectly.
I decided to install the standard 'passing lamps' as well. That kit came with another 'spot' switch which I installed right next to the first one (both on left side panel). I wired the passing lamps as per instructions and they work normally as well. The problem is, with both spot switches off, the fog light indicator (green led) switch is lit. When I turn the passing lamp switch on, the green led goes out, and the passing lamps illuminate and the green indicator light comes on. I can then turn the fog lights on, and they illuminate as well, and both 'green' indicator lights are lit.
My dilemma is this. I can turn on the passing lamps, and the fog lights, but I can't turn the fog lights on without the passing lamps being turned on as well. I want to be able to turn the fog lights on / off (always on) independently as well as bypass the low beam issue. Like 'Bigskyhd', I saw his bike had both the passing lamps and fog lights. I like to know how those are wired.
Any help would be appreciated. My brain hurts trying to find my problem! LOL

 

Dwireman, how did you hook up the spot switch and fog lights. I will soon be doing this project. Did you hook them up without attaching them to the low beams? Thanks for any help.