Can you scan the directional, instruction sheet?

PM one of us with the sheet. If you PM me, I will send you my e-mail addy, and send the sheet.

I do not mind at all helping you, I'm just worried you have 'info overload' and that has made you unable to do this straight forward job.

I think, from fear of all things 'electrical' (a HUGE disease), you OVER worry it.

So, send away, and I will be home, again like Monday night.

OK?

 

Here is a quote from a Kuryakyn sheet:


WIRING CONNECTIONS
White wire with inline fuse and ring terminal to 12 volt power (Battery+)
Black wires with ring terminal to ground (battery-)
Group of four wires (encased in plastic wire loom) route to driving lights- one white and one black to each lite.

(I already know that you have it all figured out on the four wires to the lites and how to wire them, OK?)

From switch, single red wire to source of 12 volt power.

Does THIS seem like you wiring?

OK.... the white wire, the one WITH the fuse, goes to your battery. It goes to the POSITIVE terminal of battery.

The black wire with the ring on it goes to the NEGATIVE terminal to your battery.

The red wire goes to the four pin connector, to the pin that YOU found turns on/off with the nacelle switch.


The relay ALWAYS has power from the battery, it NEVER turns off, OK? Just like you garage door opener at home never turns off. Always "ON". Always has power.

Now, the red wire DOES turn on and off. Just like when you push the button in your car to raise your garage door... it's the remote. OK?

The best way for you to turn this red wire on and off, is by using the nacelle switch. Now, WHY wire into the nacelle? When you ALREADY have that self same wire sitting in your 4 pin connector? Just use one of your crimp pins, crimp the pin to the RED wire, and then plug that pin into the slot of the 4-pin connector that turns on and off with the nacelle switch.

You know, when you take the little tester, clip the alligator to NEG post on battery, and then put in EACH of the pin holes of the connector... turn bike to ON and then flip the nacelle switch on and off, while in EACH pin hole.

You will find the 'pin' that is controlled by the nacelle switch. Simply plug the red wire into that pin hole. Tape and silicone it in place.
relay.gif (GIF Image, 299x2...jpg


This little drawing will show how a relay works.

Your red wire turns on and off the electromagnetic coil inside the relay. This makes the wiper swing from On and Off using the battery as the constant power to the wiper. The wiper inside the realy is what turns your lights on and off. The red wire energizes the magnet and that PULLS the wiper into the new position. The magnet MOVES the wiper back and forth.

This is why I said earlier that in these installs, you wire the relay, and the rest falls in place, OK?

I will return tomorrow.

 

Draw.jpg

 

Looks spot on, forgot to check what bike you ride but on my 08 Ultra the accessory connector wire colour you are looking to connect to is the Orange wire.

Incidentally, I did post this before but older postings seem to get wiped off. The connector HD use for accessories is a Deutsch type DT. I googled it and saw this company in the States (I am sure there are loads, but this will give you a start)

http://www.deutschconnector.com/prod...onnectors.html

You would need the type DT06-4S-Assy. I would get the solder type sockets rather than the crimp type. Solder the red wire as per the diagram above and you are done.

 

Karz, hope this goes together for you. Mine worked like a champ with the accessory switch on the Nacelle. That way I've got the passing lamps on one switch and the fog lights on the other. I bailed on trying to help (my apologies) as I could see this was getting a little too convoluted. But I have been watching with interest. Sometimes too many cooks in the kitchen spoil the soup thing.... Good luck, and let us know when it's up and and running. We'll all enjoy some pictures of your completed project.

 

Ok, thanks for the help guys, gonna take a little time to go through this, which I can't do right now.

For anyone concerned about me being in over my head or whatever, while I'm admittedly trying something new, I'm confident in my ability to figure it out the right way. I know when something is too big of a job for me to take on, w/ time given, but w/ enough time and motivation, I'm pretty sure I could do anything I set my mind to, if I have a way to learn how to do it.

The situation here is, I could have followed the directions in the kit, no problem. But I didn't like the end result, the way they wanted me to wire it. I did enlist the help of someone more experienced w/ bikes than I am, but he'd never dealt w/ this particular issue before, and we discussed various ways to do it, but I posted here to try to benefit from anyone's experience who had already done what I wanted to do.

I'm not an idiot, and I'm smart enough to ask questions when I don't understand something. If I explain what I want to do, and get an answer, but I didn't know enough to ask all the right questions, or explain it right, or if someone misunderstood what I was saying, then I might not get the answer I was looking for. Plus, I might get more than one viable solution to the problem. I think both of those things have happened in this thread.

In which case, it's up to me, in this case the novice of the situation, to determine which solution makes the most sense for me to do, and clarify that I've understood it correctly before making any mistakes.

I'm very picky when it comes to certain things, so I want to make sure I do it the proper way, that has the result I want, and I'm not the type to go off and just start wiring something up, w/out understanding the potential benefits or consequences of doing it one way. I like to understand as much as I can about something when I do it, because then if anything goes wrong, I have a better idea what it might be, and I usually learn a whole lot of other things along the way, that may come in handy later. Usually, I don't have to go back and fix things I've already fixed once, I like doing it one time the right way, hence so many questions if I see discrepancies, omissions, or don't quite understand certain details in some posts.

Thanks again for your time, when I get a chance, I'll post or pm some pics and instructions, but it's gonna take a little time to get that together.

For the record, I have an 03 Road King Classic FLHRCI, and the fog lights are the HD fog lights that mount to the engine guards. I also have a service manual and have read the entire electrical section for touring bikes, focusing on the FLHR stuff, including the section on the accessory connector, and the details on the deutsch connectors, and I bought the stuff I needed to connect into it, but don't have the part numbers in front of me right now.

 

I still haven't read through everything from today, but I will. I did take a quick picture of the wire harness, thought that might help.




Think of the left side being the front of the bike, and the right side being the rear of the bike.

The upper left is the switch they would have you put on the handle bars.

The lower left are the hot/ground wires going to the lights on the engine guards.

The upper right is the white hot lead that is consolidated from all the other hot wires after going through the relay. This is the hot lead that would go to the battery.

The lower right are all the ground wires.

So, previously, if I was thinking about using the wiring harness, but not connecting the red wire in the upper left to the low beam wire, which would trigger the switch, I didn't know what to do w/ those wires, because if I didn't use them, and only hooked up the power and grounds, the circuit wouldn't work w/out the trigger.

After digesting yesterday's posts, and looking at the wires again, I think I may be close to understanding what some of you are saying.

In the upper left you can see the red and white wire going to the switch, which would normally be toward the front of the bike, these would not reach back under the seat, if you connected the lower left wires to the lamps on the bars.

But, I think the red wire is coming from the switch only, and that white wire goes back through the loom all the way to the relay in the lower right.

So, the relay has four white wires attached to it. 2 come from the lights themselves, one comes from the switch, and one goes to the fuse and onto the power source.

So, if I were to cut the white wire up near the switch, then the switch and the red wire disappear, and this white wire that was connected to the switch becomes the 'new' trigger wire, the one that should only see power when the Ignition AND the Acc Switch are turned on. So, I could pull that white wire back through the loom, or trace it back, and use it to connect to the accessory connector by crimping/soldering it to the appropriate pin connector.

Then, the upper right white wire needs direct power, since I don't have the newer bike w/ that plug, I'd crimp/solder it to an O ring connector and put it on the main fuse block bolt w/ the batter stuff.

Let me know if that's what you all are trying to say, but I'll still read the other stuff you posted.

Part of the problem was some people, and I could be wrong, but when I asked the dealer, I swear they told me this too, that the accessory connector is pure fused power, and should be sufficient to handle the load w/out all the extra fuse and relay of this harness. The accessory fuse is a 15 amp fuse, and I was under the impression that if you connected something like these lights, which someone here said pull 9 amps, to the right pin on the accessory connector, that it would be sufficient to pull the load.

I understand what wurk truk and others are saying about wiring directly to the wires in the nacelle and expecting those wires to pull the load may be the wrong way to do it, as it could overload those wires. But I was given the impression that connecting directly to the accessory connector was pure power on a 15 am fuse, and was the sole purpose of the connector, that's what it is designed to do. So, when others recommended that I only use the accessory connector as a power indicator to send to the trigger wire of the harness, I questioned the logic of the seemingly redundant wiring, since I was told the accessory connector would be the other 'right' way to wire directly to the lights hot/ground wires, since it was already on a 15 amp fuse and so forth.

I hope no one got the impression that I didn't appreciate their help, or was being stubborn thinking I knew better than anyone else, I was just trying to see if there was more than one 'right' way to do it, and understand the details of each to try to learn something, as well as eventually complete this wiring job.

I'm going to read the rest of these other posts, unless I get interupted, and see where I'm at.

Thanks.

 

I think you'll find that with many jobs like this, there are always a multitude of options as to how it can be done. You don't have to apologize for taking your time and doing it the way YOU want it done. After all, it's your bike. You're the one that has to live with it. I think you've got plenty of info to pull this off, so we'll just get out the way and let you complete your task. Once again, good luck.

 

Yes, you got it. Black with the eye is gnd. The white with the fuse goes to battery

and the white from the switch goes to your 4-pin.

good deal

 

+1 on finding a buddy that has done this before. Watch over their shoulder and learn. Buy them a case of their fav beverage afterwards.