Thanks for coming back, I appreciate it. So basically, you disconnected the plug or wires themselves from their power source that go to the accessory switch, leaving just two wires coming out of the switch making it a dummy switch.

Then, you used the existing wire harness that came w/ the lights, hooked it up per their directions, except you cut out the supplied switch, and wired the already installed accessory switch into the wiring harness that came w/ the lights?

 

Cool, I hear ya, fortunately my state doesn't have any sort of inspection system like that right now.

 

So, in your scenario, I'm connecting the two hot wires to the wire that is hot when the ACC switch is on, but you're recommending using the supplied fuse (but not the relay) in line between the lights and the switch wire, just to be on the safe side. Then the other two wires coming from the fog lights, one from each, I find a good ground for those. Do all the testing, and make sure connections are proper, etc.

Thanks.

 

Interesting, so those four pins down inside that accessory connector in front of the battery are all for different things?

So like are there 4 small plugs that would plug inside independently? Is that why you say their so finicky?

I'll look for it, but if you are able to link me to the matching PN that plugs right into that thing, I'd appreciate it. Like I was saying before, I'm evaluating all the ways to do these lights, and even if I do the lights different, I still want to know how to best tap into this accessory switch and/or connector, just so I can figure it all out while it's fresh on my mind.

Thanks for the help, also.

 

Karz, you can use the relay and the fuse and just don't use the switch that was provided with the fog lamps. Both hot leads need to go together and into the orange/white, then the ground just needs to have a good ground. You're there man, pull the trigger. Good Luck

 

I don't know. I'm still reading stuff that contradicts things in my mind when I read some responses, preventing me from finishing this. Certain things just don't add up.

So, I went to HD to look at the connectors for things, and ended up getting the casing and connectors to plug into the accessory connector in front of the battery. And I got a splitter for the accessory connector from them, so I can hook up a couple things to it, so I haven't taken up any real estate by hooking into the accessory connector, I'll still have a spare spot to run something else off of it later.

I'm still trying to find one thing, and figure out one thing.

I didn't want any more unnecessary connections, so I wanted to connect directly to the fog lights via 18ga bullet connectors that are already on the HD fog lights. I don't want to cut the wires on the lights, because they're already so short. And I don't want to really cut the wires on the harness, if I'm not going to use the harness right now, I'd like to leave it intact for future use/sale. So, unless I want to cut into the wires on the harness, in order to use the bullet connectors on it, then I need to find some 18 ga bullet connectors, preferably weatherproof ones w/ heat shrink. I checked Pep Boys, Autozone, Advanced Auto, Northern Tool, and Home Depot, if they have any, they only have 16 Ga, but not 18 Ga.

Then, when I plug into the accessory connector pin, I'll need to connect 2 hot wires into one pin. I'm not sure if I can put two wires together into those little tiny pin connectors and crimp/solder them in there, or if I need to take the two wires into one wire first, and then crimp/solder the one wire into the pin connector. Anyone have any experience w/ this? Either getting both wires into the pin connector, or using another method to take two wires into one first?

I appreciate anyone's patience and help, it just seems like every time I decide to do it one way or another, little details like this keep me from finishing it in a clean/proper way.

 

Hey harleypingman, on the first page you said you connected to the accessory connector under the seat, which in my mind eliminates the need for the wiring harness or need to cut the switch wires.

In this post, you talk about splicing into the switch wires in the nacelle, using the fog light wire harness, but replacing the switch by wiring into the disconnected switch in the nacelle. Did you just try to chime in to help me w/ my question to another user about wiring directly into the switch wiring in the nacelle, vs your first post where you said you used the accessory connector in front of the seat?

I want to make sure I'm clear on this. If you hook the wires into the accessory connector in front of the seat, then all you need to do is hook a power wire and a ground wire from each light into the correct pin on the accessory connector right?

You can see in my above post that I'm trying to narrow down a couple things, like how to go 2 into 1, either before connecting to the pin for the accessory connector, or wiring 2 wires directly to the pin, as well as tracking down some 18 ga bullet connectors to plug right into the lights, so I don't have to cut those wires and rewire new connections on them.

Let me know if you can help me clear this up. Thanks.

 

Karz, if you are using the accessory connector under the seat you use only one of the wires from the switch supplied with the HD harness because the accessory connector already has the ACC switch wired in it, along with an unswitched powered circuit, and a circuit controlled by the brake light circuit.

 

So you still used the fog light harness even though you used the accessory connector?

I just figured the ACC connector has a pin in it that only gives safe power when the ignition and ACC switch are on, so it would be easier just to wire directly to that pin.

If I still use the fog light harness, I have extra wires that either don't do anything, or would restrict everything from working if not dealt with somehow, connected to something, or cut out of the loop. Like I'd have to cut the white power wires from the lights off before they go into the relay and wire them directly into the power from the ACC connector. If I left them connected to the relay, then they'd also be connected to the switch wires and the trigger wire, which if not hooked up to anything the lights won't work.

Is there any chance you could spell out for me what you're saying?

 

You really want to use that supplied relay there Karz. Here is how. But I wont be the most clear, but will try.

The lead that you correctly found from the headlight that is in that 4 pin connector... THAT is what triggers your relay. The relay itself, instructions should show this, wire directly to the battery.

From your lights, each light has two wires. somewhere along the line, each of the wires will interconnect together and then become simply two wires. It's like a "Y" connection coming from each light then becoming one set. OK?

Now, you have simply 2 wires coming from somewhere near the crash bars, after the "y" is made.

One of these wires will go to ground. Find a good ground on bike, OR run that wire , with butt splices, tape, etc directly to the negative terminal of the battery.

OK, we now have wiring done to ground and through the bars., and you will need the other, the ;HOT' wire also run up under the tank and get IT to the battery.

The kit will have shipped with a relay. You will need to find a place near the battery that the relay will reside.

The relay will have FOUR4 wires on it. I cant help you tell which are which, but will explain so maybe you can figure this out yourself.

A relay IS a switch. The switch in the nacelle has like 20-22 gauge wiring. AND it is NOT meant to carry a big load like fog lites.

What a relay does is it has a wire that goes directly to the HOT terminal of the battery (along with an inline fuse) and another wire that goes right out to your lites... the other so far unused wire from the "y".

Can you see this in the instructions? The wire TO the lights and the wire TO the battery? meeting at the relay?

You want to hook these up.

A relay is a REMOTE switch that is controlled by another switch. You relay is made to flow the proper amps and not BURN UP, like wiring directly to nacelle will do.

Im trying to think, but coming up empty. say the relay is your garage door opener in the garage, the switch in the nacelle is the button in your car. Get it? How it's remote? The nacelle switch will NOT carry the electric to the lights, it is NOT made to do so. Hilljack wanna bes wire direct, YOU want to do this correctly like MOCO etc wants you to do.

The other two wires from the relay are... GROUND and trigger. So, you can run the ground from relay also to your neg post on battery. The trigger, you connect into that 4-pin connector and make it fire off of nacelle switch.

This is EXACTLY how an air horn wires, with the relay. the horn button on bars cant carry the air horn juice, so IT, also, uses a relay.

Hope that muddles the waters completely for you. But, dude, you really should ALWAYS, use a relay for any type of lighting.

There is alot of GOOD info here for you on HOW to make a connection, etc. FOLLOW IT!