anyone have any answers to the questions on page 2 for the various scenarios?

thanks

 

Hey Karz, thanks for the input on my AirHorn issue. It's been a while since I put my fog lamps on, but I'll try and help as best I can. Exactly what is the information that you are needing? After looking through this thread, it looks like it's pretty much covered, but that you might be having some issues with where to actually hook up the wires from the lights. Is that the case? I'm kind of like Dan above, I too wired into the accessory switch. I have the passing lamps, so I just used the other one. These are the switches in the back of your nacelle. There is probably an Orange and white wire attached, that'll be a hot wire for you to splice onto with your hot wire from the lamps. You can easily test this by turning the key on, and sticking your electrical tester (you do have one, pointed on one end, alligator clip on the other) into the wire. It should light up when the key is "on" or in the "ACC"mode Test it both ways before you splice into it. You wanted this idiot proof so let me just say here that the electrical tester must be grounded. That's what the alligator clip on the end of it is for. Once you've determined it's "hot", then splice into it, and hook up your "hot" wire from the fog lamps. I like to solder those splices, put shrink wrap tape on it, and then electrical tape over that. I know it's overkill, but years and years of things going south has driven me to this point. It's your call, but when you start blowing fuses in a couple of years cause its rubbed through, don't call me. LoL (little humor there) Then just make sure you've got a good ground on the fog lamp wiring, and button her up. The one thing I didn't do that I wish I had, and I may take apart some time and do, is run the wiring inside the crash bar. It's much cleaner, and I don't really know why I didn't, other than I was just in such a hurry to get em on and running. I ran all the wiring through my handlebars (Chubby 508's) and that turned out very clean. Well let me know if this helps, or if you need any more assistance.

 

Hey bigsky, I can't find my old test light, so I need to buy a new one, no problem, just hadn't gotten around to it since I started tinkerin again...

I took the entire headlight and plate behind it out, so I have complete access to the inside of the nacelle area on my RKC. I held and traced the wires coming out of the currently unused accessory switch, there's an orange wire and and orange/white striped (dirty white or yellow) wire coming from it, that go into a white plug, the white plug is connected to another white plug, which has same orange wire and orange/white wire disappearing into the main wire harness.

So the fog lights come w/ their own switch and trigger wire, a hot lead that has a fuse and relay on it, and connected to all that are two wires that go to each fog light.

In this scenario you describe, I'm ditching all that wiring, and from scratch I'm wiring two hot wires (one from each light) into whichever one of those orange wires that shows hot when the switch is on, and two ground wires from the lights to some grounding point? And at that point the switch is already getting sufficient power from the electrical system, when the switch is on, it sends power to the spliced in hot wires from the lights, assuming on the other side of the lights they are connected to a sufficient ground, and there is no need for any of the wiring or switch that came w/ the lights?

Let me know if I'm understanding what you're saying.

I'm still curious for the other posters to respond to the questions I asked them, so I understand how each way works, but thanks for helping me understand how you did it.

 

My right auxiliary switch controls my passing lamps. I'm planning on wiring my fog lights to the left auxilliary switch so they work in the same manner. Karz, if you have a chance to document your install, I'm looking forward to your pics

 

Hey Twinrider, I see you're in Yokohama, were you that guy posting awhile back about a wreck and getting parts shipped from here cheaper than buying over there, or something like that? I had a friend that lived in Yokohama for a year or so, teaching English, interesting stories.

Since I'm taking my time w/ it, unlike some things I throw together, I may just end up taking a few pics, if so I'll post em here...

I want to take some pics anyway, since I bought the bike, I've added a dual trumpet air horn, clear turn lenses in front, smoked turns in back, and a smoked LED taillight, and I changed out the old head lamp and spot lamps with the newer style clear ones, now I'm working on the fog lights, I'm debating a headlight modulator, and brighter bulbs. Other than that, at some point I want to add a speaker system and/or a detachable fairing, but right now I'm just trying to finish my lighting and safety stuff first.

 

Haven't wrecked my bike yet (knock on wood!), but yeah, I buy all my parts from the states. In Japan H-D OEM parts are typically double the price and sometimes triple. I save about 70% buying at Zanotti's and other places that offer discounts.

 

Karz, regarding the wiring, using the Acc switch instead of the supplied switch simply requires that the supplied switch be cut from the harness and the remaining switch wires spliced to the Acc switch on your RK. I don't have an RK and am not familiar with its location or wiring. Your Service Manual wiring diagram will allow you to trace and locate the Acc wiring you need.

Other than changing the switch wiring, the rest of the wiring installation for the fog lights is per the instructions.

 

In regards to connecting the driving light to the low beam switch...in Virginia the state inspection requires that any driving lights be connected to the low bean and cut off when you switch to high beam.

 

Hey Karz, I read your most recent post and I think you've got it exactly right with one small detail.. I'd leave that inline fuse in place on the wiring from the fog lamps. Yes, both sides. It's only one more safety valve, so you might as well have it. Also, you should know that the ACC switch you're splicing into is already fused, at the fuse box. Go ahead and cut off the switch, and splice into the orange/white (as I remember) You can check that with your electrical tester ($3 at WalMart). So you should be golden. That ACC switch is a live feed with juice to it, so all you have to do is splice into it. Make sure you have a good ground, and once you've spliced, soldered, heat shrink the splice, and electrical tape the heat shrink....then without starting the bike turn the key to the "On" position, and flip the ACC switch on. Your Fog lights will come on. Then turn the key over to "ACC" and test em from that position. Again your fogs will come on. Once you've tested it in both positions, glue her back together and go kill some bugs. Good Luck, and let me know if you need anything else.

 

Not to confuse the issue (I hope), but IF you ever want to wire anything to the four pin accessory plug under the seat, note that one wire is ground, one is tail lamps, one brake lamps, and one live when the accessory switch is on. Like someone already said, it is all fused already. I don't have the book handy and I don't remember the colors, but your test light will tell you. I suppose you could cut the wires and splice them, but I bought the matching parts and plugged it in like Mother Harley intended. The plug pins are small, so a bit finicky to put on the wire ends, but when you are done it looks factory and you can unplug it for troubleshooting should the need ever arise.