It is apples to apples, synthetic oil to synthetic oil, both good products. Just because you can buy M1 at Wally World doesn't mean the playing field isn't level. That's a big advantage to some, especially since Amsoil isn't always easy to find and almost never sold in stores.

 

Ok amsoil has went up no doubt about it. Me, my dad and my uncle order it by the case through the preferred customer card. And we figured it up today and called and its up here is what we found as we need to order.

MCVQT syn 20W-50 price last year in march was $82.80 a case this year $97
SVOQT 75-140 Syn gear last year $130.80 this year $139.20
EAOM134C chrome oil filters last year $11.75 this year $13.05

Expensive yes but still good deal compared to buying at your local store as that price puts a quart of oil at $6.90 quart last year and $8.10 this year. Local store that same quart will run around $12bucks.

Sucks as we are ordering 4 cases of oil, case tranny oil, 12 filters grand total of around $760 still only breaks down to $256 or so split between three of us and gives us each 4 oil and tranny and primary changes this year.

If anyone can get me a better deal than this email me plan to order in next week or so.

 

Sucks to live in Canada.

 

Using Wally World Mobil 1 here in all three holes.Seems to have quieted the garbage disposal sound and 6 quarts were like$27.Rotella Synthetic 15-50 is what I wanted but it is no longer available at Wally,bout $16 per gal. for that and it has a great reputation.

 

Maybe we're splitting hairs here. I'm certainly not saying the 15-50 Mobil 1 at Walmart is not good oil. It is not however the same as the 20-50 Mobil 1 Vtwin or Amsoil VTwin.

 

I read all this talk about oil and i see a lot of opinions but no hard facts. After reading about oil and oil testing for about 6 months i decided to try Amsoil. I used my 2004 f150 to test their claim of 1yr or 35k miles and sent samples off to Blackstone labs. First go around i only put 20k in 13 months and my test showed that the oil was still good according to the TBN and the lab and they told me to run another 2k and send another sample. I decided to change it and now in my 6th month and 10k and the sample shows engine wear to be well below the national average wear for my type of engine and the lab also said that the oil should have no problem with handling another 6 mo of service. I will send another sample in 3 months. I am impressed with the service of this oil and don't care about price i care about performance. Now, has anyone had the same performance out of mobil 1 oil?
I use Amsoil in my bike but it gets the regular changes and i will stick with what works for me besides, i have a problem using anything from walmart on my bike.

 

2ea. 5 qt jugs Mobil1 15/50 Synthetic Oil: $50.00 (10qts)
4 ea. HD Black Oil Filter @ $7.16: $28.64
1 qt Mobil1 75/90 Synthetic Transmission Oil: $8.95
1 qt Castrol GTX 10/40 Motor Oil (Dino): $2.50

In November, I do my winter oil change so my scoot is ready for spring. I change all fluids. Cost at this time is:
Motor Oil: $20.00 (4qts)
Filter: $ 7.16
Primary: $ 2.50
Tranny: $8.95
Total: $38.61

When the riding season shows up here in march, I usually do 10K miles a season. I change out my oil filter at 2500 miles and do an oil and filter change at 5K miles and a filter change again at 7500 miles. Cost for the riding season:
Motor Oil: $20.00
Filters: $21.48
Total: $41.48

For a full year my cost is about $80.00 and change. Send me your $256.00, I'll send you what I use for a season and I'll keep the change.

 

Thats a good savings soos. But i end up changing my oil about 4 to 5 times a year. every 3 to 4,000 miles and put alot of miles on. I know the amsoil is expensive but its good oil.

 

No, it's not the same oil but is every bit as effective. You can see this in the tests that I cited earlier, although I'm not sure the magazine tests are available on-line. I don't think I kept the articles from American Iron but do have those from Motorcycle Consumer News and QuickThrottle, and could dig up some quotes if anyone is interested. I did this a couple of years ago so it's probably in an old thread somewhere, most likely in the oil forum.

All of these tests made an effort to ascertain the effectiveness of MC-specific products versus so-called "car oils." There are many myths that abound about the error of running "car oil" in a MC and these tests nixed them all. In fact, M1 15w50 performed as well and contained an equivalent amount of important additives as their more-expensive V-Twin 20w50. I mentioned earlier about using a mostly "car oil" mix (not M1) in my old RK Evo and cited its long life with no engine repairs or rebuilds after 120k miles. I also cited another case of two FLH owners, one using M1 15w50 and the other Amsoil 20w50, with neither showing any cylinder or piston wear after 60k and 50k respectively.

There are many myths floating around about oil, many of them perpetrated by the manufacturers using dubious marketing claims, but the bottom line is that I have seen no evidence, conclusive or otherwise, that one oil is superior to any other in prolonging engine life. Some do some things better than others, but no one oil beats all the rest in every category. Much of this lies in the fact that oil and additive science is a balancing act, and while one formula may excel in one area it may be less effective in another.

Few will argue the benefits of synthetic over fossil oil, and I'm certainly not doing that. I'm just saying that any high-quality synthetic oil of the correct viscosity (or close) is fine for a Harley engine, and there's no evidence one will make the engine last longer than another. Claims that using Syn3, for example, makes rebuilding necessary after 30k is just ludicrous. It's amazing the crazy stuff you hear about oil, much of it inflated and not based on reality, and it has become an emotional issue like religion and politics.

 

Nobody is denying that Amsoil is "good oil." It is indeed a top-drawer product, but so are many others that cost much less. Soos has it nailed, and IMO is getting the most out of his dollar spent. Mine goes like this:

Engine oil: Royal Purple 20w50 purchased from distributor in 5-gal. pails, changed every 5k. Cost: 20w50 @ $5.50/qt. (2.5 qts. per change) mixed with RP Nitro-50 racing oil @ $10/qt. (1 qt. per change). Don't ask, long story.

Filter: HD black (5-micron), $7.52 from Zanotti's

Tranny: Redline Shockproof Heavy ($9/qt) or Royal Purple 85w140 ($13/qt.)

Primary: Castrol GTX 20w50 from Walmart ($2.75/qt.)

Total: $43-47 per change, assuming all done together. I change tranny oil only every 10k, others 5k.

Let me emphasize that none of this is gospel, and there are hundreds of equally good combos out there. This is just what I do based on quality, availability, and price.