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brake switch- testing?

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Old 02-02-2009 | 11:34 AM
davandsarah's Avatar
davandsarah
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Default brake switch- testing?

I have another post going with my ongoing electrical issue, but came up with another question thats related: When I depress the brake switch plunger on the handlebar in and out, the relay clicks, can I assume it is still functional then? Also when i depress the rear brake pedal the relay does NOT click, should it or is this switch faulty. thanks to all the advice, I'm stubborn and a bit hard headed and I'm not taking a trip to the dealer until all my hair is gone ( can't afford to lose much). Thanks fellas
 
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Old 02-02-2009 | 11:44 AM
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HDRider2002
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If you can hear the relay click, then i would say your plunger switch on the handlebar is working just fine. do you by any chance have the running light/brake light crossover installed? That unit might have gone south on your as well.
 
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Old 02-02-2009 | 11:47 AM
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I had one of the running light things go bad on my bike and the rear brake light wouldn't work until I took it off. I was asking all the same questions as you.
 
  #4  
Old 02-02-2009 | 12:07 PM
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rkoivisto
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From: currently an Okie
Default relay

If you hear the relay click, it means it's trying to work, but the contacts on the relay won't necessarily b e making if the relay is bad.
 
  #5  
Old 02-02-2009 | 12:23 PM
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Didn't do any brake light conversion, I did alot of work this winter, all braided lines,lowering kit and alot of cosmetic bolt on stuff but no wiring, right now what happens is i turn on the ignition and the 15amp brake fuse pops, and then it the brake light stays on full ( not running light). I had the bag lights and I noticed one of the quick connects has a wire pulled out of it, so of course it doesn't work, but i unplugged it and don't think that would be the issue ( especially since the pulled out wire is on the end that goes to the light). Everything leads to there being a wire pinched in the switch housing on the bars,but i can see anything pinched up there but haven't completely dissasembled it. I'd rather be building a motor than messing with this, but atleast I'm learning something.
 
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Old 02-02-2009 | 12:26 PM
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HDRider2002
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if you switched teh bars, make sure that the wiring isn't pinched in the master cylinder or clutch lever clamp. I did the same thing when changing mine, didn't have the wires in the indent under the bars, and when i tightened the clamps down, i would blow a fuse. For me it was the high beam wire, obviously for yours with it being brake lights, its most likely on the master cylinder clamp.
 
  #7  
Old 02-02-2009 | 12:29 PM
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gonna have to take that apart, what a buzz kill, finally finished all me winter work on my bagger, then I do the stand back and admire thing, finally time to turn on the ignition and make sure all is well, and it WASN'T. Thanks for any and all advice, atleast I feel like i can get this
 
  #8  
Old 02-02-2009 | 03:33 PM
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HDSAE60
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From: Broken Bow Oklahoma
Default check this

Originally Posted by HDRider2002
if you switched teh bars, make sure that the wiring isn't pinched in the master cylinder or clutch lever clamp. I did the same thing when changing mine, didn't have the wires in the indent under the bars, and when i tightened the clamps down, i would blow a fuse. For me it was the high beam wire, obviously for yours with it being brake lights, its most likely on the master cylinder clamp.
but first, place a 12v test light in place of the blowing fuse. the light goes out when you remove the short. The acc circut for the radio shorted on my EGC and started blowing the fuse. 12v test light in place of the fuse helped me find the short. and the light will not carry enough current to hurt the circut. so take your time when looking for the short.
 
  #9  
Old 02-02-2009 | 04:32 PM
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IzZy63
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From: Oz Pk NY
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I had that problem on my Lowrider changed the relay.
 
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