Why do you care what your numbers are before the upgrades? Sounds like a waste of money to me. Sure it would be cool to know how much improvement you got but I don't see the need to run it on a dyno then do mods later. $200 to $400 to find out only to be worthless after your mods

Even after you do your mods, I bet your tuner is going to change the map befiore he even makes the first pull. He should already have a map that's been done on another bike with similar or the same mods and will use that as a starting pioint and then tweak it to your bike.

I suggest you save the money on the stock baseline run and use towards your mods.

 

Running it on the dyno before doing mods helps to establish your baseline hp/tq. My local dealer does 3 dyno runs for $35. That way you can see exactly what your gaining when you do your mods

 

Ok, I'm back from the dyno. Thanks to those of you who provided some constructive suggestions. This is the first time I've ever been to the dyno before and I didn't know what to expect.

I wanted to establish a baseline for my bike so I can really evaluate the results of mods that I will be making soon. We all know that every manufacturer advertises this or that over the other...I want to know what the real numbers are...or close.

The attached dyno sheet is of my 2009 Street Glide: Stage 1 103", flat top pistons, stock heads, stock cams, stock headpipe, S/E stage 1 A/C, S/E mufflers, Stage 1 ECM download. No power management device.

Mods I will be making as soon as the UPS truck gets here: PCV with auto tune and Jackpot dynotuned mufflers with 2" baffles.

Tell me what you think of the baseline?

 

Sorry, I didn't understand your original post. I thought it was a stock bike and you wanted to dyno it before you done any upgrades. For stock head pipes and no cam changes it looks pretty good. Why did you go with stock cams? So are you doing the auto tune and dyno again? I'm kinda slow so bare with me

 

The price of 3 runs on the dyno was $60. I just wanted to make sure eveything was good...except AFR's...prior to adding any mods. Then when I make additions I'll know how well my money was spent and I'll be able to let others know.

The tuner...and Fuelmoto...recommend retention of the stock 09 headpipes unless you are running a 2-1 system. It actually provides some good torque stock.

I really didn't have a choice of cams as this bike already had the stage 1 103" added when it was sitting on the showroom floor. I would have added them if I did the mod myself. But now that I would have to pay to tear it apart again I decided to wait and see what I can do without them. Then I'll decide.

When I get the PCV, autotune modules, and Jackpot mufflers installed I will play with the autotune for a few weeks and see what I can do with it. It will take me a while to learn as I have never played with a tuner before. Then I will take it back for another 3 runs. If it needs further adjustment then I will make them at that time as well.

 

Forgot to mention that with the S/E mufflers the tech was unable to get the sniffer past the muffler baffle. He said if he was doing a tune and not just a baseline run he would have to try other methods, either WB O2 sensors or drilling through the center of the baffle for the sniffer to pass through. For today's purpose the AFR's were close enough as it was only to get an idea of my stock system.

The Autotune WB O2 sensors will be installed on my next run.

 

The stock headpipes are not given credit for the good they can do with the right tune, and unless you have some other reason to change them (e.g., appearance) I would save your money for other enhancements. A 2-into-1 or true-dual setup will cost much more, and only the former will equal what you will have in a few days.

I would not think about cams 'til I rode the bike with your existing setup and the new FM mods. I haven't found a cam set yet that will retain the low-end TQ characteristics provided by the stock cam, retarded as it is overall. I'm still looking, and a cam change is rather easy on the TC96 motor. The good news is that doing the change will not require further tuning, as you'll just let AT do its job.

I wouldn't fool with anything on the tables except the cruise range of the Target AFR table. Refer to my write-up on the '07 install, although the physical installation part won't apply to you. I touched on the tables a bit there but can help you further via email, PM, or phone. I'll be glad to help, and Jamie is the real expert on this system.

I would advise leaving the ignition tables alone as well as the values on the Target AFR table above 60% TP. Also, as per the PCV user guide, don't enter any AFR numbers (above zero) in any 0% column. Been there, done that, bad idea. It is setup properly by default. You don't want to alter WOT performance but you may want to eventually tweak the target AFR values for better gas mileage. How you do this depends on other factors, like whether or not you have an oil cooler installed, etc.

I thought you were doing the dyno runs strictly for informational purposes. There is really no practical reason to pull more runs in an effort to maximize HP/TQ, as the WOT values already entered will give you optimal results. You might be able to tweak and extra .1 HP or so by playing with these values, but FM has vast experience with this and has entered the best Target AFR's already based on this testing.

The dyno chart will only give you info on WOT performance, but it is an invaluable tool for determining the location and duration of the peaks. If there are pronounced peaks and valleys in the curve you have issues, and smooth is what you should be looking for IMO. The curve you posted looks very good to me in terms of its smooth transitions, and you should see a similar shape in the final dyno run except that it will move higher on the chart. I would expect to see a meaningful improvement by making the changes you've invested in. By comparison your TQ is the same as mine with a TC96 and FM Power Package. Your HP is about 3.0 higher, which is a function of your larger displacement.

Your AFR table on the posted chart shows a typical stock condition that is too lean for best performance. You are running mostly 14.2-15.0:1, which is not optimal. With the FM items installed you should see about 13.0:1 across the board at WOT, as that's the Target AFR Jamie programs by default.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks iclick, you've been a great source of info.

My map from FM may not be as good of a base map as it could be because Jamie doesn't have any 09 103" maps. I think he is giving me a treaked 08 map. So I can see the possibility of needed a bit further tweking on the dyno...maybe. Depends on how well the auto tune works.

However, the main question I had was if the tunner....if necessary....would be able to get the sniffer through the Jackpots and far enough into the headpipe to get precise readings? He was unable to get it through the SE's I have now and wasn't confident the numbers for AFR were precise.

 

09SG as per an earlier post and what my indy told me is that the sniffer(s) hang up at the Y, not the muffler baffles. My guy dropped the right muff and still couldn't get the sniffer far enough. Stated that he's ordering some parts and tools to shoot them in through the existing 02 ports.

I'll keep the updates coming and hope you'll do the same. I'll have to run down to your neck of the woods for a little ride one day.

Keith

 

Keith, guess after my problem today I was hoping either you were mistaken about the spot of the hangup or had the California CAT version. Oh well...

I may not need the tune anyway as I am installing the autotune with wide band sensors.

If I do need the tune maybe the tech will be able to make use of the WB sensors that will already be installed. I'm not sure as they have to disable autotune for obvious reasons while tuning. Hopefully everthing work the way ICLICK has described and I don't need it anyway...just a run to show the numbers.

So where would you be coming from? I leave again for Iraq in March.