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Read this if you're thinking about LED's or have questions about Load Equalizers

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  #31  
Old 03-27-2009 | 11:15 AM
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bigskyhd
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Good poop Monstead. Thanks!! Very well done. You're a valued and great addition to the Forum. Glad to have you with us. We can all learn something new, that's what it's all about.
 
  #32  
Old 03-27-2009 | 01:49 PM
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wkenddad
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I admit I didn't read the entire post...
But if the flasher unit reads the load level of the bulbs, couldn't you just replace the flasher unit with a unit designed for LED's?
Would this not be the correct way to solve the dilema?

I know the newer cars are coming out with LED lights, do they use load equalizers or relays designed to work with LEDs?

Can anyone with more electrical knowledge that I have illuminate me on the subject?
 
  #33  
Old 03-27-2009 | 03:17 PM
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skratch
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Originally Posted by iclick
I find the running-lights and brake function of the two turn-signal lights to be adequate, I'd like more output out of the main tail light. I've looked into LED replacement bulbs but don't know if they'll (1) make much of a difference and (2) require more load equalizers. Has anyone made the change? I wouldn't mind changing to LED's if the price wasn't exorbitant and there is little intrigue in getting them to work reliably.
bob, i went to the local parts store and bought an led taillight/brakelight (red) bulb to use with my low profile, laydown, smoked lens. the parts guy told me that there were two different bulbs available, one was better than the other, and not much more expensive. so he did not stock the one, only the brighter one. i paid 25 bucks for it. it is a direct replacement in the taillight and does not require a load equalizer.

i also have the run/brake module but have modified it so that it does not illuminate unless i hit the brakes. (or use the turn signals of course). i liked the idea of going from 'off' to 'full bright' rather than from 'bright' to 'slightly brighter'.
 

Last edited by skratch; 03-27-2009 at 03:21 PM.
  #34  
Old 05-17-2009 | 12:50 PM
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colt_357
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Default wanting more info?

OK enough on the L.E. .........question is: Is there a flasher relay for LED's out there that really does work at a normal 60 fpm with out L.E. in it or having to use L.E. to get correct flash rate? I have been doing alot of research on LED's because thats all that I have I my bike. And I am finally working on making it legal.....had only brake and run. .....I'm putting turn signals. Run,Brake,Turn. I am having a problem finding a flasher relay for led's ............. DON'T want to have to use Load Equalizers at all.

Please help. this is thread I have going with the project:https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...-found-it.html
 

Last edited by colt_357; 05-17-2009 at 12:54 PM.
  #35  
Old 05-17-2009 | 01:21 PM
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monstead, great explanation, but what kind of china and wallpaper should I get?
 
  #36  
Old 05-17-2009 | 05:47 PM
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papifun
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i purchased the HD smoke LED tail light. once installed the turn signals were going erratic. i then purchased from the HD dealer the Kuryakan load equilzer with option to flash the rear break taillight 5 times then steady on when i hit the breaks. i had to add a 2nd load equalizer due to the alarm light always staying on.. and man - does the load equalizer get hot if i apply brakes and turn signal...
great write up...

i want the rear brake light to flash to alert cagers - anything better than my current setup ?
 
  #37  
Old 05-17-2009 | 08:30 PM
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Glenn W
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Most flashers operate with a bimetal spring using the relatively high current of the incandescent lamps passing through it. There are electronic flashers out there that are not load dependant, seen 'em but don't know the source/brand name, sorry.
A simple way to look at the LEds is to pretend they are very efficient 1.5 volt lamps (not entirely correct but WAY less deep than the gate current, blah blah blah explanation)
Getting back to the 1.5 volt lamp theory; If you use a transistorized voltage reducer chip built into a lamp to drop the voltage to 1.5 the LED will light and hardly any power is used. Great for the bike but doesn't operate the flasher. Another way is to use a cluster of LEDs wired in series like the old Xmas light strings; 8 or 9 of them in series gets you in the 12v-14.5v range (just multiply the number of lamps by 1.5) Problem is, if one burns out they all go dark. Solutions include using a combination of series/parallel wiring AND a voltage reducer chip use a 6v reducer and you could run 3 LEDs in series, OR as many sets of 3 in series as you want - wired to the 6v source in parallel. That way if one LED goes out, you only lose its 2 mates, the other strings of 3 stay lit. Problem is, until you get up in the load range of an incandescent bulb, the flasher won't work properly so nothing's free.
One way to work around the load equalizer a little is to combine incandescent lamps with the turn signal flashers. They can be lower power, often a 7-8 watt lamp is all you need in combination with the new LED turnsignals so if you can find some cool little marker lamps to use as auxillary turn signals just wire them in parallel with the turn signals and they'll flash together. At least you are making light instead of just heat with your additional load!
 
  #38  
Old 05-17-2009 | 08:48 PM
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TheShrink
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This is true ... or just get an electronic flasher or load equalizer. The Badlands Equalizers do not over heat like ALL of the others.
 
  #39  
Old 05-17-2009 | 09:28 PM
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vzts4q
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Default more on leds and flasher modules.

Harley does not use a automotive style flasher module for turn signals. This function is controled by the TSM (turn signal module) or TSSM (turn signal security module)
It is a solid state device that handles the auto canceling feature as well as the hazard flashers.
I have all LED's in everything but the TourPack and went with the Badlands PLUG-IN ILLUMINATOR : RUN , BRAKE & TURN MODULE
http://www.badlandsmotorcycleproduct...cts/BETCSM.htm

Did not want all the heat that the resistor type equalizers create. Since most if not all resistance type equalizers are mounted in an area with little or no air flow they tend to get very HOT this is the reason they are more prone to failure.
 
  #40  
Old 05-17-2009 | 09:42 PM
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TheShrink
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I also have the Badlands Illuminator and it is the best run/turn/brake controller on the market. It also has the built in load equalizer that does not overheat.

When I mentioned the electronic flasher, I was referring to COLT 357's post about adding turn signals. Since he currently does not have signals or a TSSM, he could get an electronic flasher and wire up all of his L.E.D.'s and have no problems. No heat issues either because no load eq required.
 


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