I have decided to tackle this myself and am in the process of getting together all the parts I will need. I have a SM and with several DIY posts and pics on this forum, am confident on being able to handle it. I do have a couple questions for those of you that have done the work yourselves:
2008 Roadking
1) What seals and/or chrome nuts/bolts/screws, will I need to get? I am ordering the chrome front end package from Harley but am unsure of exactly what is included.
2) What type/weight fork oil do you recommend? I am staying with the stock springs(unless someone can convince me otherwise). I am not what I would call an aggressive driver but wouldnt mind reducing the front end dive without giving up the comfort.
3) Other than the normal ones found in any box, what special tools will I need? sockets, allens, ect..
Please feel free to chime in with any other hints, tips and tricks.

Thanks in advance

 

Kit includes:
KIT SPACER/COVER,FRT WHL,CHRM,FL
FRONT AXLE COVER, CLASSIC CHROME
CHROME AXLE CAP NUT KIT
CHROME DRAIN SCREW KIT
FORK SLIDER COVERS, PAIR
KIT, CHROME FORK SLIDER-TOURING

1) You will need to get seals
2) I mixed a bottle of SE with a bottle of type E and used that
3) Air impact works well and a 6mm allen socket

 

If you have a SM you should be OK, it's not that hard just take your time. You will need a long 6mm allen socket to get the bolts out of the bottom of the legs. I stayed with the type E oil, I've talked to people and read alot of post about how the ride is more harsh with the SE oil. I noticed dawg mixed his, that might work out pretty good, I don't really have any complaints with the dive, and I don't want my bike to ride worse.

 

keep us posted on the progress...

 

i went w/ the se oil and don't like the ride. i'm running an 18" front tire and the ride on our crappy roads is harsh. on smoove asphalt, it's nice. i don't notice any difference in the dive.

i will be changing back to the regular wt oil this winter.

 

You mentioned staying with the stock springs? If you've ever thought about lowering your bike now would be the time to do it. First time changing lowers will probably take you between four and five hours. You can add another 30 minutes total to your time and have the front lowered for an extra $200. I think thats about what the RK front springs are. Of course then you would have to lower the rear but that is simple! I know personally, being vertically challenged, I had the opposite problem. I was going to lower the whole bike and had to wait until I could afford the chrome lowers.

 

There are three different fork oils that HD offers, stk, SE HD and SE race, I use the SE HD and would not go back (just replaced it last week), it firms up the ride a little, and dives less, just what I wanted. We ran the race in my buddies and he will be going to the SE HD oil next time. I am also changing my rear shock oil from the stk 5wt to Amsoil 10 wt.

 

You will need to a 1 3/8"/35mm open-end wrench for the fork cap bolts or extremely shallow socket--they are not installed with very high torque.

Dawg, IIRC, posted a link to a nice specialty tool that is very shallow socket-type tool that accepts either a ratchet or wrench to turn it.

 

FYI.
I went to Murry's auto parts and bought a 35mm socket and cut it down, it only cost $6

 

Can get the shallow one's many places. HERE's one from Motion Pro