Please do, I would like to hear how it works out for you

 

Someone explain why a 103 would be harder to start? It would have to be the tune. The compression is the same, right?

 

The bigger the bore the more air/mixture ingested resulting in more work for the starter. That is, by the way, what creates the additional power. The compression ratio might be the same but the amount of charge is greater (mean operating pressure). Think of it this way, you have an engine with a bore of 3" with a stroke of 3". Now think about an engine with a bore of 6" and the same stroke. Do you think it would be harder to turn the 6" engine over? By the way, the difference between the 96" and 103" is .125" or 1/8" larger bore. The cam grind also makes a difference. A cam with a higher lift will allow more charge to fill the chamber also making more power and more work for the starter. In my case, I hope the starter is up to the task. I would have thought that HD would have suggested compression releases if it was necessary. I'm hoping just the timing is too advanced.

Hope that makes sense.

Marc

 

Yes makes sense, my thought was the fact it's really not that much bigger bore and sense other people aren't having problems then it must be timing. But I can understand needing releases for the 110's and over. I wasn't considering cams either. Thanks

 

First, there is no need to go to a 1.4kv startere, or any other starter than a stock HD. It will handle a properly tuned 103 just fine. I am still running the stock HD starter witht eh stock battery on my 120" and it starts first time, every time with 10.5:1 compression and .575 lift cam, so your 103 should be just fine with the stock starter.

There are some adjustments that can be made to the stock ECM with the stage II download, which does pull a bit of timing out. To tune it exactly, and to be able to modify for heat soak (hot starts) you need to go to a SERT, SEPST or DTT or some other aftermarket tuner. Demand your dealer get it right though if he said the install would work with the just the stage II download.

 

I called two of the local dealers and both of them told me that there is no adjustment they can make with the stage II download. Basically they are saying that it is a canned map with no option to modify unless the bike is equipped with a SERT of SEST which it isn't. Is there some tip you can give me that I can pass on to them that will let them know where to look? I really appreciate the help since I've run into a brick wall so far.

Thanks,
Marc

 

Marc, I think it time for a new bike . I'll take care of the hot start problem

After riding it on Saturday, I was most impressed

 

BTW, your shocks are ready

 

Just an FYI

The chart in the Screaming Eagle catalog lists a stock 96 at 9.2:1 comp. Adding a basic 103 kit with SE255 cams and using the flat top pistons 21966-07 provided in the kit bumps comp to 10:1.

 

The dealer I bought my SG from installed the 103" street legal kit with SERT before I bought the bike. They told me to ride the bike 500 miles and bring it back for a dyno tune.

This was the first tbw bike anyone at that dealership had ever tried to tune. They did a lousy job on the tune. The bike ran better than stock, but not up to it's potential and I was only getting 30 mpg at best. It also started hard.

I took it back and complained about the starting issue. They put a new starter clutch in and said that should do it. It didn't.

I took the bike to Wabash HD in Terra Haute, In. Scott Hunter told me right away that my starter was fine, I just needed my start up timing changed.

I fully believed that Scott knew what he was doing, so I had him add 10.5:1 domed pistons and performance heads before he tuned it.

I have only ridden the bike 4,000 miles since he tuned it, but all has been very well. More hp, tq and better mileage and easy starting.

Dennis