Garage Heat???
#11
I use a kerosene heater when I work in the garage as well. I've got a 2 car un-insulated space and the heater gets cranked up about 45 mins before I need to go out there. Run it on high for the first 45 and then drop it to med/low and it's warmer than the house, which we keep at 72°/73°.
I bought this one two summers ago at Lowes for $49 in the clearance aisle http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...5C7&lpage=none
I bought this one two summers ago at Lowes for $49 in the clearance aisle http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...5C7&lpage=none
#13
kerosene smells awful these work great. other choices in the link as well. good luck.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...2707_200332707
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...2707_200332707
#16
Okay, I'm no engineer or rocket scientist or structural collision tech, but I can't understand why there is not a moisture problem with electric heat? And I'm talking about getting the heat reasonable for 3-4 hours at a time... evenings... The propane tank with the infra red looks pretty good, will that cause humidity and issues with the tran, engine, etc?
#17
I run a 60K BTU propane heater off a 20 lb bottle to take the chill off. 20 pounds lasts about 4 hours on full blast.
Keeps the area right around where I'm working toasty.
I do need to insulate the garage though, If I seal up the area over the cars and insulate the walls it would probably help
Keeps the area right around where I'm working toasty.
I do need to insulate the garage though, If I seal up the area over the cars and insulate the walls it would probably help
#18
Electric heat has no exhast, thus not burning a fuel. Metal things in your shop still my sweat with mosture as they are coming up to temp., like a cold beer does, But if you burn a fuel and it has no exhast stack to the outside, then the exhast from that propane or kerasene heat is going to be 90% water vapor. Meaning you are componding the condenation problem. Ventalation is the key here, to get rid of the water vapor.
#19