Wind buffeting coming from below
#111
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: US poverty capital, california
Posts: 28,128
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I run this
Here is a product that does just that. This pic is from Drag Specialties, but Harley has one available as well. They work great, deflects the wind down to the motor vs up over the lowers. You will should be happy with the results, many on here have installed these.
http://shopping.msn.com/specs/drag-s...ork-air-baffle
http://shopping.msn.com/specs/drag-s...ork-air-baffle
But... I only use it in the winter, being in the mojave desert, if I ride with it installed in the summer I don;t get the proper air flow over the cylinders and the bike runs hotter... Apperatly I've been told the fuel tank acts as a tunnel to channel air to te cyls, this baffel deflects the air and interupts the flow to the cyls....
#112
I run the HD version of this, it works great on my Ultra....
But... I only use it in the winter, being in the mojave desert, if I ride with it installed in the summer I don;t get the proper air flow over the cylinders and the bike runs hotter... Apperatly I've been told the fuel tank acts as a tunnel to channel air to te cyls, this baffel deflects the air and interupts the flow to the cyls....
But... I only use it in the winter, being in the mojave desert, if I ride with it installed in the summer I don;t get the proper air flow over the cylinders and the bike runs hotter... Apperatly I've been told the fuel tank acts as a tunnel to channel air to te cyls, this baffel deflects the air and interupts the flow to the cyls....
Beary
#113
Like many others I experience the buffeting on my '08 RKC. I noticed that when I held my hand up while resting my wrist on my knee (sounds kinda gay doesn't it) as if I was telling someone to "stop" it would almost stop the buffeting. Funny thing but it's more obvious on the right side - I have cruise control so I can easily ride with my hand in this position. I decided if I could reduce the wind from below the buffeting would stop so I have been experimenting with ways to reduce, or stop it altogether, with varying degrees of success.
I have the between the fork wind deflector installed but I have replaced my driving lights with the SG version so I can't use the H-D chrome lowers (OK, others have mounted them backwards and they work). In an older thread I showed how I used some clear lowers (glass only) and a windsheild mount to add wind deflectors to my crash bars. With some fine tuning of the location I could totally eliminate the buffeting - in fact it not only eliminated the buffeting it created a large dead air space. I could almost read a map while riding - no sh*t.
I wasn't totally impressed with the look of the windsheild mount and I had to take them off to straighten my crash bar (hit a friggin' deer) so I decided to try something else. I made up aluminum brackets out of aluminum angle to hold the clear glass just below the windsheild. This location isn't as good as the first attempt but it helps significantly. Combined with the hand deflection I describe above I get a dead air space again. if I could mount the deflectors a bit lower I think it would be perfect but turning the bars to full lock just clears the crash bar.
The attached pics should help explain...
I have the between the fork wind deflector installed but I have replaced my driving lights with the SG version so I can't use the H-D chrome lowers (OK, others have mounted them backwards and they work). In an older thread I showed how I used some clear lowers (glass only) and a windsheild mount to add wind deflectors to my crash bars. With some fine tuning of the location I could totally eliminate the buffeting - in fact it not only eliminated the buffeting it created a large dead air space. I could almost read a map while riding - no sh*t.
I wasn't totally impressed with the look of the windsheild mount and I had to take them off to straighten my crash bar (hit a friggin' deer) so I decided to try something else. I made up aluminum brackets out of aluminum angle to hold the clear glass just below the windsheild. This location isn't as good as the first attempt but it helps significantly. Combined with the hand deflection I describe above I get a dead air space again. if I could mount the deflectors a bit lower I think it would be perfect but turning the bars to full lock just clears the crash bar.
The attached pics should help explain...
#114
Like many others I experience the buffeting on my '08 RKC. I noticed that when I held my hand up while resting my wrist on my knee (sounds kinda gay doesn't it) as if I was telling someone to "stop" it would almost stop the buffeting. Funny thing but it's more obvious on the right side - I have cruise control so I can easily ride with my hand in this position. I decided if I could reduce the wind from below the buffeting would stop so I have been experimenting with ways to reduce, or stop it altogether, with varying degrees of success.
A few weeks ago I was on a long ride up the inland valley of CA and experimented with strapping a magazine to my thigh with it extending out beyond my knee... It worked awesome... but looked terrible..
I like your idea and will need to come up with something different as I don't have an engine guard...
I have read this entire thread and find myself somewhat concerned... I should have my '07 FLHX here in a couple of weeks and I guess that I will have to experiment with the peculiarities of the batwing... Oh well, you can fix anything by throwing enough money at it...
#115
#116
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Broadview Heights, OH
Posts: 1,282
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Like many others I experience the buffeting on my '08 RKC. I noticed that when I held my hand up while resting my wrist on my knee (sounds kinda gay doesn't it) as if I was telling someone to "stop" it would almost stop the buffeting. Funny thing but it's more obvious on the right side - I have cruise control so I can easily ride with my hand in this position. I decided if I could reduce the wind from below the buffeting would stop so I have been experimenting with ways to reduce, or stop it altogether, with varying degrees of success.
I have the between the fork wind deflector installed but I have replaced my driving lights with the SG version so I can't use the H-D chrome lowers (OK, others have mounted them backwards and they work). In an older thread I showed how I used some clear lowers (glass only) and a windsheild mount to add wind deflectors to my crash bars. With some fine tuning of the location I could totally eliminate the buffeting - in fact it not only eliminated the buffeting it created a large dead air space. I could almost read a map while riding - no sh*t.
I wasn't totally impressed with the look of the windsheild mount and I had to take them off to straighten my crash bar (hit a friggin' deer) so I decided to try something else. I made up aluminum brackets out of aluminum angle to hold the clear glass just below the windsheild. This location isn't as good as the first attempt but it helps significantly. Combined with the hand deflection I describe above I get a dead air space again. if I could mount the deflectors a bit lower I think it would be perfect but turning the bars to full lock just clears the crash bar.
The attached pics should help explain...
I have the between the fork wind deflector installed but I have replaced my driving lights with the SG version so I can't use the H-D chrome lowers (OK, others have mounted them backwards and they work). In an older thread I showed how I used some clear lowers (glass only) and a windsheild mount to add wind deflectors to my crash bars. With some fine tuning of the location I could totally eliminate the buffeting - in fact it not only eliminated the buffeting it created a large dead air space. I could almost read a map while riding - no sh*t.
I wasn't totally impressed with the look of the windsheild mount and I had to take them off to straighten my crash bar (hit a friggin' deer) so I decided to try something else. I made up aluminum brackets out of aluminum angle to hold the clear glass just below the windsheild. This location isn't as good as the first attempt but it helps significantly. Combined with the hand deflection I describe above I get a dead air space again. if I could mount the deflectors a bit lower I think it would be perfect but turning the bars to full lock just clears the crash bar.
The attached pics should help explain...
#117
#118
#119
#120
Marc
Thanks!!! Looks great overall, but I would have to get used to the windshield kicked back at me, but if it does the trick, I can deal with it. I had looked at a Klock Werks shield also. My assumption is you drive over the shield, rather than through it. Wonder how it would handle rain....
Thanks again, and best regards!
B
Thanks!!! Looks great overall, but I would have to get used to the windshield kicked back at me, but if it does the trick, I can deal with it. I had looked at a Klock Werks shield also. My assumption is you drive over the shield, rather than through it. Wonder how it would handle rain....
Thanks again, and best regards!
B