Every fall, winter and spring when the weather is cooler I smell exhaust fumes when I decelerate. The general consensus from a few wrenches that have looked at the bike is that it is running rich and when the weather gets cooler the engine doesn't get as hot therefore not completly burning all the fuel.
I had a few pulls on the dyno taken the other day to see exactly where it's set.
1500=14.3
2000=13.6
2500=13.4
3000=13.2
3500=13.3
4000=13.2
4500=13.1
5000=12.5
The HD wrench said the desired AFR should be 14.1 from 1500 thru 3500 then 13.6 at 4000 and 13.3 at 4500 and 5000 rpms
He wants to re-tune the map and lean it out. I'm worried that it will run hot during the summer months. I have SE air and slip-ons.

Should I get it retuned for $300 or live with it till summer or have the original Indy tuner try to tweak it (no cost)?
I just want to make the right choice. I'm not to concerned about the dollars.
I have have been thinking of getting a hotter plug.

What do you guys think?

 

I'd leave it as is. Rich in fall is better than lean in summer.

 

Streetrunner, if those are the AFR numbers for those rpms at steady cruise, your bike is way too rich. For example, if you are running along the interstate on a relatively flat section at 70 mph at about 3000 rpm, the AFR should be about 14.6. On the other hand, if you go WOT entering that interstate, when the bike hits and passes 3000 rpm, the AFR will be somewhere around 13.2 or so. The point being that AFR is a function of rpm and load. The heavier the load the richer the AFR is; the lighter the load, the leaner the AFR should be. And leanest of all is steady cruise on a flat road.

If the AFR's at those rpms are from WOT pulls, the data is meaningless 'cause you don't ride around town at WOT; you proably ride with a mix of light load/mild acceleration and steady cruise. That's what a good dyno operator tries to replicate when tuning the bike. Tuning the bike for WOT may be nice for a dyno chart, but it doesn't make for a good running street bike.

HTH.

 

The above poster is right, you need to get your air/fuel ratio for the speed and load where you are riding at part throttle in addition to the air/fuel at full throttle. Running the bike at 13.5 - 14.0 at part throttle HAS to work, but you could probably go leaner and save some gas. At full throttle you want to run very rich, 12.5-11.5 and throw a lot of gas at the motor. You won't lose power and the engine will run cooler.I learned this from 25+ years dyno tuning air cooled motors. The modern dyno tuners don't use water brake dynos, so their air/fuel ratios are biased to the lean side because the engine does not stay at a steady speed on a roller wheel dyno(aka inertia dyno or flywheel dyno)..

 

I’ve never seen the code blocks from my Harley ECM, but on an automobile you do not normally tune for low load. Under low load cruise conditions the ECM uses the A/F sensor to maintain a 14.6 ratio. This is called “Closed Loop” operation as the A/F ratio is constantly adjusted to maintain the 14.6 ratio. When you open up the throttle you are in “Open Loop” mode and the ECM ignores the sensor and uses preset values for load and air flow to determine how much fuel to spray. Think of it as a table in an Excel Spreadsheet with Load being the columns and Air Flow being the rows. The number at the intersect determines how much fuel is need for those two conditions. Programming changes those values and modifies the A/F ratio.

Now back to the original question. During colder weather the air becomes denser which leans out the A/F ratio when running off the programmed values in the open loop mode. Most modern automotive Mass-Flow air sensors try to compensate by using a heated wire as the sensor. Cold air and/or higher flow both cool the wire which moves you down in the programmed table and the ECM sprays more fuel.

I only have experience programming my hot rod, 500 HP supercharged, pickup, but the ranges listed seem typical. I think you are worried about nothing. The programming may or may not be optimal but further programming would likely not make any significant difference. Relax and go for a ride.

 

I'm pretty sure they were not WOT pulls.
As I stated above, the bike run great. It's just the exhaust smell at decel getting in my lungs and on my cloths.
Currently the oil temp has not been getting above 210 whereas in the summer I've seen it as high as 265 when stuck in traffic and around 235 when cruising.

I'm wondering if it would make sense to throw on a fuel pac or PCIII for the winter and remove it in the summer rather than getting it made leaner now which may make it suffer in the hotter months.

 

Another option would be to download the canned map in from the race tuner programs that correspond to my options but I that may be to lean.

 

Not trying to be a smart@ss but do you think maybe the turn-down tips are part of the problem? Denser air in the fall may change the air flow around the bags and cause the exhaust to swirl up around the rider?

 

The O.P. says it happens during DECELERATION- I think I'd look at the decel enleanment tables in the SERT software, maybe the tuner richened them up to prevent decel popping?

 

Mine drops off below 13. at 3000R's according to the dyno, what do I do??