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Rear Drive pulley bolts loosened up!

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  #21  
Old 12-08-2008 | 06:36 PM
HHI Dave's Avatar
HHI Dave
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
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Hey, new member here.

I hate that this is my first post, but here goes.

I came across this thread and this forum while searching for info about my '07 Road King Classic.

Tonight, my girl and I were headed out for dinner when the bike started making some odd noises and seemed to be "catching." Fortunately, I was still close to home and was able to turn around and limp back. Unfortunately, as I got about 100 feet from my house, it made one final sickening noise and I couldn't get any power from the engine to the ground. The bike was rolling freely even while in gear. I pushed it the last few yards into my driveway and when I pulled the left side bag, this is the sight that greeted me.

jpg


All five of the pulley bolts had backed out and were sheared off. The pulley and the wheel hub are beat to $h!t. Hopefully that's the extent of the damage. Any info or a line on some cheap OEM replacement parts would be much appreciated.

Also, just FYI, I bought the bike used in July with 19k miles on the clock. In September we took an 1,100 mile ride on and around the Blue Ridge Parkway. This is my first bagger and my first twin-cam, but definitely not my first bike. Thanks again.

-Dave
 

Last edited by HHI Dave; 12-08-2008 at 06:50 PM.
  #22  
Old 12-09-2008 | 01:31 PM
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HHI Dave
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TTT

Got the back wheel off today. Here's what I found...





 
  #23  
Old 12-09-2008 | 02:36 PM
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Wow Dude,
Sorry to say the pulley and hub are toast and probably the spokes may be stressed or the hole in the rim MAY be bad, from the torquing motion back and forth (thats how the holes became elongated). Inspect very carefully or replace the entire rear wheel unit!
 
  #24  
Old 12-10-2008 | 01:17 AM
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Hawgnut
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Originally Posted by tallboy56
A word to the wise from someone that has been selling Loctite for 30 years..."blue" does the same as "red" but will allow you to remove the fasteners without breaking them. "Red" is for one inch diameter and above fasteners. Both compounds cure in the gaps between the threads keeping the fasteners from vibrating loose. I would never use "red"(high strength) on anything the size of the bolts in the drive sprocket. If applied properly, "blue"(removeable) will do equally well and still allow easy disassembly.
Being serious What is the proper way of applying loctite? I have always dabbed a spot on the threads is this correct? Can't remember anything that I applied this way, backing out...............
 
  #25  
Old 12-10-2008 | 06:06 AM
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rickoshay45
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There are many 07 conversions out there. If you do a forum search for "IDS" you will find a surprising number of happy customers right here on this forum. I've got 35K on mine.
 
  #26  
Old 12-10-2008 | 06:32 AM
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UltraDuke
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From: Parts Unkown
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if you find these bolts are loose and have backed out replace them. if you try to reuse them the standard torque may snap them. i know from experience. they are only 2 bucks each. replace them before you have to replace a hub or pulley.
 
  #27  
Old 12-10-2008 | 08:24 AM
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bagman1
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Originally Posted by Hawgnut
Being serious What is the proper way of applying loctite? I have always dabbed a spot on the threads is this correct? Can't remember anything that I applied this way, backing out...............
Thats right, but you need to make sure the bolt and hole threads are clean of the old stuff. Brake clean does wonders just keep it off the paint. Locktite works when you torque it, the threads compress and removes the air, this is how it cures. There may be more to the equation but thats the basics, start with clean parts and fresh locktite.
 
  #28  
Old 12-10-2008 | 08:25 AM
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buick455gs
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I replaced the rear sprocket bolts on my 2001 SE RG using the chrome bolt kit from HD. Reading the instructions for the bolt kit (which I do not have with me at this time) the bolts are not tightened to a final torque. You have to turn the bolt a number of degrees after initial torque to assure the bolt is properly stretched. This method is really the only way to assure proper bolt stretch (bolt strain). There are too many variables using just a torque wrench, i.e. thread lubrication, thread pitch, thread condition, bolt head to part contact area and lubrication, etc. The manual should have these instruction as well. If a tech just torqued the bolts I could see why there could be problems.
 
  #29  
Old 12-10-2008 | 12:18 PM
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HHI Dave
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Originally Posted by bagman1
Wow Dude,
Sorry to say the pulley and hub are toast and probably the spokes may be stressed or the hole in the rim MAY be bad, from the torquing motion back and forth (thats how the holes became elongated). Inspect very carefully or replace the entire rear wheel unit!
Yeah, I found a take-off 66 tooth pulley on Ebay. Now I just need to find a reasonably priced laced rear wheel. Anyone??

Thanks.
 
  #30  
Old 12-10-2008 | 01:41 PM
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iclick
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Originally Posted by HHI Dave
Yeah, I found a take-off 66 tooth pulley on Ebay. Now I just need to find a reasonably priced laced rear wheel. Anyone??

Thanks.
I have two laced wheels for a 2003 RK (front and rear) in good shape that'll I'll sell for a song. The larger axle/swingarm arrangement was introduced in 2002, IIRC, but you should check and make sure they would be compatible. Email me if you're interested. I can email you a photo I took several months ago with the aim of putting them on Ebay, but never got around to it. I also have a take-off 66T pulley I might consider selling.

As for the pulley (sprocket), this would be a good time to upgrade to IDS, which is only $198 from Zanotti's. It is an excellent upgrade for the '07 bikes, IMO. Zanotti's will also install the bearing for $12 extra.
 

Last edited by iclick; 12-10-2008 at 01:43 PM.


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