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Rear Drive pulley bolts loosened up!

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  #91  
Old 09-01-2010 | 11:19 PM
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BorisBulldog
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Originally Posted by EVOrider
I safety wire all my bolts on the rear pulley. There is no way for them to loosen up. I don't trust loctite that much. They always stay tight and I've never had a problem this way.

What good will safety wire do if all 5 shear off like the pic below?











Was doing about 75 MPH on the interstate for 8-10 miles and got off the exit ramp waiting for the light to change and when I let out the clutch my bike was locked up and wouldn't move. I thought it was the tranny or maybe the brake pads fused themselves to the rotor but when I got off I noticed one bolt (the bent one in the far right pic) was wedged between the pulley and swingarm.

It seems that one bolt sheared during my ride and had a domino effect on the other 4. Centrifigal force probably kept the bolts in place at speed and when I came to stop one worked it's way out which prevented my wheel from turning.

I wasn't gun ho on the chrome bolts, but 3 years ago when I took my pulley off the local Stealership ran out the OEM pulley bolts and sold me the chrome ones. I red locked em and torqued to 60 ft lbs per the shop manual.

The funny thing is this is the 2nd time it's happened to me in 4 years. A year after I bought my bike I noticed that two of the OEM bolts were sheared off when I took my bag off to check my belt.

This seems to be a recurring problem on the touring bikes. I've got a '94 EVO with no problems like this.

I'm going to get standard black heat treated 7/16 by 1 1/2 by 14 pitch grade 8 bolts and see if that helps.
 

Last edited by BorisBulldog; 09-01-2010 at 11:58 PM.
  #92  
Old 09-02-2010 | 06:01 AM
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Unless you are using Loctite 2760, primer should be applied to the bolts before the Loctite if the bolt is being installed into an inactive metal or made from an inactive metal. (aluminum, stainless steel, titanium, cadmium, magnesium, etc) This information is in 2009 volume 9 Loctite source book, page 150.
 
  #93  
Old 09-02-2010 | 06:46 AM
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Had that happen while riding my Deuce one day. One bolt backed out far enough to start banging on the swingarm and scared the crap out of my. Replaced all bolts and torgurd after loadin them with red locktite
 
  #94  
Old 09-02-2010 | 07:13 AM
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This is about the third or fourth thread I've read on this subject this riding season. I wonder what all of the variables are that may be causing the loose bolts on the final drive sprocket.
 
  #95  
Old 09-02-2010 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by tnwill
Unless you are using Loctite 2760, primer should be applied to the bolts before the Loctite if the bolt is being installed into an inactive metal or made from an inactive metal. (aluminum, stainless steel, titanium, cadmium, magnesium, etc) This information is in 2009 volume 9 Loctite source book, page 150.
What good does loctite 2760 do when the bolt snaps off?

I understand if it back out, but all the bolts sheared off in the same spot. Sounds more like the HD chrome bolts were too brittle to me.
 
  #96  
Old 09-02-2010 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by BorisBulldog
What good does loctite 2760 do when the bolt snaps off?

I understand if it back out, but all the bolts sheared off in the same spot. Sounds more like the HD chrome bolts were too brittle to me.

I don't want to get in a pizzing match with anyone about this, but the bolts coming loose could be the reason they sheared off. There are several other things that would cause this, many of which could be eliminated by having the failed bolts analyzed for hardness, chemical composition, and by looking at the failure point. HD may just be selling cheap chinese bolts that have a good looking chrome job.
 
  #97  
Old 09-02-2010 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tnwill
I don't want to get in a pizzing match with anyone about this, but the bolts coming loose could be the reason they sheared off. There are several other things that would cause this, many of which could be eliminated by having the failed bolts analyzed for hardness, chemical composition, and by looking at the failure point. HD may just be selling cheap chinese bolts that have a good looking chrome job.

Please explain how the bolts came loose when the other half is still locktited in the hub?

You can't see from my hub pic, but there is still red locktite around the studs in the hub.

I would have loved for them to come loose as it would have saved me $90.00 plus dollars to get them extracted at a machine shop.
 
  #98  
Old 09-02-2010 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by twowheelsgood
It's also possible that one of the bolts snapped increasing the load on the others...

Ride safe!

2WG
That's why it's important for who ever wrenched on it to evenly torque all of the bolts. It may not be a bad idea to use aircraft bolts and safety wire them.
 
  #99  
Old 09-02-2010 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bikes
That's why it's important for who ever wrenched on it to evenly torque all of the bolts. It may not be a bad idea to use aircraft bolts and safety wire them.


I torqued all the pulley bolts to 60 ft lbs.

Here's what I got from my local fastener company- grade 8, heat treated 7/16 x 14 hex bolts-

 
  #100  
Old 01-31-2011 | 07:44 PM
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flagirl
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I found this thread while searching for info about the pulley bolts. I just came back from Harley today after being told the same thing....pulley bolts sheared off.

Happened to me last night while 30 miles from home going 60-65 on the highway. Speedo jumped from 60 to 90 to 0 and I felt the bike lurch then lose power. I was able to coast and slow down to pull over while hearing lots of noise. Had to trailer the bike home and over to the dealer. My bike is a '10 Fat Boy Lo, 3500 miles, never had any major work done (minus the paint job) and normal oil change (once).
 


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