DONE!!!! Alpine 9887 head unit, Arc Audio mini and Boston Acoustics Pro50's!!!!
#21
10-21-2008, 09:46 AM
Extreme HDF Member
You can google PAC SWI-JACK. It's one of many modules originally developed for automotive applications: using aftermarket headunits in cars/trucks with steering wheel controls of the headunit.
If you go to PAC's website, you can locate the wiring diagram for the installation.
The module is an alternative product for having handlebar controls of an aftermarket headunit on our touring bikes. It's not a plug and play, hard-wired devices like the Biketronics (which I use) or Hawg-Wired units, but the PAC module allows use of a broader range of headunits than those compatible with the hard-wired units.
If you go to PAC's website, you can locate the wiring diagram for the installation.
The module is an alternative product for having handlebar controls of an aftermarket headunit on our touring bikes. It's not a plug and play, hard-wired devices like the Biketronics (which I use) or Hawg-Wired units, but the PAC module allows use of a broader range of headunits than those compatible with the hard-wired units.
Last edited by Harleypingman; 10-21-2008 at 03:18 PM. Reason: r8 correctly noted the module is not wireless.
#22
10-21-2008, 02:39 PM
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You can google PAC SWI-JACK. It's one of many wireless modules originally developed for automotive applications: using aftermarket headunits in cars/trucks with steering wheel controls of the headunit.
If you go to PAC's website, you can locate the wiring diagram for the installation.
The module is an alternative product for having handlebar controls of an aftermarket headunit on our touring bikes. It's not a plug and play, hard-wired devices like the Biketronics (which I use) or Hawg-Wired units, but the PAC module allows use of a broader range of headunits than those compatible with the hard-wired units.
If you go to PAC's website, you can locate the wiring diagram for the installation.
The module is an alternative product for having handlebar controls of an aftermarket headunit on our touring bikes. It's not a plug and play, hard-wired devices like the Biketronics (which I use) or Hawg-Wired units, but the PAC module allows use of a broader range of headunits than those compatible with the hard-wired units.
#23
10-21-2008, 03:17 PM
Extreme HDF Member
Part Number: SWI-JACK </SPAN>
The SWI-JACK allows the customer to retain the use of their steering wheel or rear seat radio controls when replacing the factory head unit. Works with Alpine's OEM Steering Remote Ready radios. The SWI-JACK also retains the use of heater control buttons on GM vehicles. The SWI-JACK features just can't be beat.The SWI-JACK controls Alpine, JVC, Kenwood, Clarion and Blaupunkt radios with a wired remote input.
• Assign the buttons on the steering wheel to any of the aftermarket radios available functions:
• Alpine: Volume Up, Volume Down, Mute, Track Up, Track Down, Preset Up, Preset Down and Band.
• Kenwood: Vol Up, Vol Down, Mute, Source, Seek Up, Track Up, Track Down, Disc Up/FM, Disc Down/AM.
• JVC: Vol Up, Vol Down, Mute/Power, Preset Up, Source, Seek Up, Seek Down, Select, Band.
• Clarion: Vol Up, Vol Down, Mute, Seek Up, Seek Down, Band, Source.
• The SWI-JACK is so universal that you only need one SKU# to cover over 95% of the vehicles made from 1986 to current. New vehicles coming out every year. No problem! Never be stuck with a vehicle specific type interface.
• The SWI-JACK has non-volatile memory which keeps all programming in memory even if the vehicle Battery is disconnected.
• Great for convertibles Unlike the SWI-X, the SWI-JACK is not affected by sunlight.
The SWI-JACK not only covers Ford, GM or Chrysler/Dodge but also it covers Acura, Audi, BMW, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Chrysler, GMC, Harley Davidson, Honda, Hummer, Infiniti, Isuzu, Jaguar, Land Rover, Lincoln, Mazda, Mercury, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Saab, Toyota and Volkswagen.
The above from PAC Audio's website:
http://www.pac-audio.com/products/pr...el%20Interface
The wiring diagram is here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/bulletins/h...ram%2098up.pdf
The SWI-JACK allows the customer to retain the use of their steering wheel or rear seat radio controls when replacing the factory head unit. Works with Alpine's OEM Steering Remote Ready radios. The SWI-JACK also retains the use of heater control buttons on GM vehicles. The SWI-JACK features just can't be beat.The SWI-JACK controls Alpine, JVC, Kenwood, Clarion and Blaupunkt radios with a wired remote input.• Assign the buttons on the steering wheel to any of the aftermarket radios available functions:
• Alpine: Volume Up, Volume Down, Mute, Track Up, Track Down, Preset Up, Preset Down and Band.
• Kenwood: Vol Up, Vol Down, Mute, Source, Seek Up, Track Up, Track Down, Disc Up/FM, Disc Down/AM.
• JVC: Vol Up, Vol Down, Mute/Power, Preset Up, Source, Seek Up, Seek Down, Select, Band.
• Clarion: Vol Up, Vol Down, Mute, Seek Up, Seek Down, Band, Source.
• The SWI-JACK is so universal that you only need one SKU# to cover over 95% of the vehicles made from 1986 to current. New vehicles coming out every year. No problem! Never be stuck with a vehicle specific type interface.
• The SWI-JACK has non-volatile memory which keeps all programming in memory even if the vehicle Battery is disconnected.
• Great for convertibles Unlike the SWI-X, the SWI-JACK is not affected by sunlight.
The SWI-JACK not only covers Ford, GM or Chrysler/Dodge but also it covers Acura, Audi, BMW, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Chrysler, GMC, Harley Davidson, Honda, Hummer, Infiniti, Isuzu, Jaguar, Land Rover, Lincoln, Mazda, Mercury, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Saab, Toyota and Volkswagen.
The above from PAC Audio's website:
http://www.pac-audio.com/products/pr...el%20Interface
The wiring diagram is here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/bulletins/h...ram%2098up.pdf
#24
10-21-2008, 04:30 PM
#26
10-21-2008, 08:00 PM
budda4 i want to say that a marine cert speaker means the magnet is coated to prevent rust. any speaker with a titanium cone and rubber buytl surround will be as good as polks. with the mag in the fairing rust isnt an issue. i ran polks for about a week but they werent up to the power my amp put out.
The first rain soaked the speaker and they sounded like crap "they would clip" after that
#27
10-21-2008, 08:58 PM
[QUOTE=ponomo;4018365]Somebody please do a walk-through of the pac-swi!
Here's some pics of my arc / focals with stock HU I did a few days ago, since brypink wont post any
QUOTE]
Sweet speakers man....how'd you decide on the Focals and not the Arc components? Also what size tweeters are needed for a good fit like yours. That **** looks nice!!!!!!!!!!
Here's some pics of my arc / focals with stock HU I did a few days ago, since brypink wont post any
QUOTE]
Sweet speakers man....how'd you decide on the Focals and not the Arc components? Also what size tweeters are needed for a good fit like yours. That **** looks nice!!!!!!!!!!
#28
10-21-2008, 09:03 PM
#29
10-22-2008, 08:29 AM
budda4 i used jl audio vr525 csi speakers. no issues with the rain. i have also used polk momos, stock harley and mb quarts. the jl were the only 1 that could hold up under high amp power (107 watts per channel) i also had to consider the size of the crossovers when installing mb quart has very large xover and the jl audio was a smaller size xover i live in the south, (tn) and travel to fl 2 times a yr
#30
10-22-2008, 08:43 AM
Focal
[QUOTE=haze324;4019536]
Hi Haze,
Real quick. I'm not trying to hijack brypink's thread, but here goes. I went with the Focals because they get loud (90db sensitivity spec.) with little power, and they can take a beating. They are spendy, but I've owned so much audio equipment I know what I like. The Focal TN 52 tweeter (pictured) flush mounting cup uses a hole cutout of about 1 3/4 " diameter. I bought a set of hole saws because I was going to cut my faring, but pulled out the top two guages and it was almost a perfect fit. There is a small gap in the top that I didn't show on the photos, but probably not noticeable if I don't point it out. There was some play of about 1/8" after the tweeter cup was installed. I cheated the mounting cup toward the bottom. Just for comparison, the arc website shows the 6000 components using a 2" diameter cutout; you could probably make those work with minor trimming. I hope that helps. Good luck!
Pictures:
Somebody please do a walk-through of the pac-swi!
Here's some pics of my arc / focals with stock HU I did a few days ago, since brypink wont post any
QUOTE]
Sweet speakers man....how'd you decide on the Focals and not the Arc components? Also what size tweeters are needed for a good fit like yours. That **** looks nice!!!!!!!!!!
Here's some pics of my arc / focals with stock HU I did a few days ago, since brypink wont post any
QUOTE]
Sweet speakers man....how'd you decide on the Focals and not the Arc components? Also what size tweeters are needed for a good fit like yours. That **** looks nice!!!!!!!!!!
Real quick. I'm not trying to hijack brypink's thread, but here goes. I went with the Focals because they get loud (90db sensitivity spec.) with little power, and they can take a beating. They are spendy, but I've owned so much audio equipment I know what I like. The Focal TN 52 tweeter (pictured) flush mounting cup uses a hole cutout of about 1 3/4 " diameter. I bought a set of hole saws because I was going to cut my faring, but pulled out the top two guages and it was almost a perfect fit. There is a small gap in the top that I didn't show on the photos, but probably not noticeable if I don't point it out. There was some play of about 1/8" after the tweeter cup was installed. I cheated the mounting cup toward the bottom. Just for comparison, the arc website shows the 6000 components using a 2" diameter cutout; you could probably make those work with minor trimming. I hope that helps. Good luck!
Pictures:
Last edited by ponomo; 10-22-2008 at 09:09 AM. Reason: Added photos