Passing Lamp Adjustment
#1
Passing Lamp Adjustment
Ive an older bagger. A 1992. On the passing lamps adjustment. There's a special socket required for loosening and tightening the nut that holds the lamp mount to the passing lamp bracket. What size is the nut? The special tool thats used is a "Socket, Flare Nut, 3/8", 6-Point" I'm not willing to modify any of my sockets to do this. I saw that Snap-On Tools makes this type of socket. But $40.00 is too much for one socket.
Also I would be interested in knowing if there's a tool one uses besides a ball tipped allen wrench to undo and tighten the (2) to each side socket head screws that mount the turn signal housing to the base and bracket of the Passing Lamps. Those socket head screws are a real PITA to get at.
Also, anyone know of an alignment tool to ensure that the passing lamps stay parallel and true with each other while tightening the lamps. I know about the required 25', aim at the wall setting for the lights when their illuminated. Just wondering if another came up with something other to do this alignment adjustment.
RJ
Also I would be interested in knowing if there's a tool one uses besides a ball tipped allen wrench to undo and tighten the (2) to each side socket head screws that mount the turn signal housing to the base and bracket of the Passing Lamps. Those socket head screws are a real PITA to get at.
Also, anyone know of an alignment tool to ensure that the passing lamps stay parallel and true with each other while tightening the lamps. I know about the required 25', aim at the wall setting for the lights when their illuminated. Just wondering if another came up with something other to do this alignment adjustment.
RJ
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rockher_man (01-22-2020)
#2
I took a cheap socket and cut out a section of the socket with a hacksaw, filed the egdes smooth to remove any burrs and used that to keep the wires from binding. I forget the size of the socket as I'm at work right now.
As for alignment, I just used a 4x8 sheet of plywood I had and put it up against a wall and moved the lights until they were even as outlined in the owners manual.
Both tasks are very easy to do/perform.
As for alignment, I just used a 4x8 sheet of plywood I had and put it up against a wall and moved the lights until they were even as outlined in the owners manual.
Both tasks are very easy to do/perform.
#3
socket head screws
did you come up with an easier/ quicker approach at getting those socket head screws out? Even that little access hole in the mounting bracket for access to the socket heads. Are not in the correct alignment for access to the socket heads. The access holes are a joke!
RJ
I did get the socket head screws out. I was just wondering if there's a quicker way. I just hate the fact that when I disassemble that area. It takes like forever.
RJ
I did get the socket head screws out. I was just wondering if there's a quicker way. I just hate the fact that when I disassemble that area. It takes like forever.
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rockher_man (04-12-2020)
#4
A ball head 5/32 allen wrench is all I have found that will loosen and remove the turn signal mounts from the passing lamp.
If you take a 9/16" deep socket and cut a slit in the side of it with a dremel tool you will have a socket for the nut at the bottom of the passing lamps. I bought a socket at the pawn shop for .50 and took about 10 minutes to cut the slit. Beats the 40.00 that Snap On wants for their socket.
As far as the aiming points go, just put a piece of tape on the wall in the proper place for each lamp and keep the lamp beam on that spot while tightening. If you do that for each lamp, they will be in the correct position when you are done.
Bill
If you take a 9/16" deep socket and cut a slit in the side of it with a dremel tool you will have a socket for the nut at the bottom of the passing lamps. I bought a socket at the pawn shop for .50 and took about 10 minutes to cut the slit. Beats the 40.00 that Snap On wants for their socket.
As far as the aiming points go, just put a piece of tape on the wall in the proper place for each lamp and keep the lamp beam on that spot while tightening. If you do that for each lamp, they will be in the correct position when you are done.
Bill
#5
A ball head 5/32 allen wrench is all I have found that will loosen and remove the turn signal mounts from the passing lamp.
If you take a 9/16" deep socket and cut a slit in the side of it with a dremel tool you will have a socket for the nut at the bottom of the passing lamps. I bought a socket at the pawn shop for .50 and took about 10 minutes to cut the slit. Beats the 40.00 that Snap On wants for their socket.
As far as the aiming points go, just put a piece of tape on the wall in the proper place for each lamp and keep the lamp beam on that spot while tightening. If you do that for each lamp, they will be in the correct position when you are done.
Bill
If you take a 9/16" deep socket and cut a slit in the side of it with a dremel tool you will have a socket for the nut at the bottom of the passing lamps. I bought a socket at the pawn shop for .50 and took about 10 minutes to cut the slit. Beats the 40.00 that Snap On wants for their socket.
As far as the aiming points go, just put a piece of tape on the wall in the proper place for each lamp and keep the lamp beam on that spot while tightening. If you do that for each lamp, they will be in the correct position when you are done.
Bill
Thank you Officer
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rockher_man (04-12-2020)
#6
I did the same thing with a cheap socket from one of those $3 sets your mother in law gives you for Christmas.
As far as alignment, with a Silverstar Headlight bulb, my passing lamps aligned to the book don't do squat. What I've done is aligned them out and down, shining across the top of the shoulder of the road and down into the ditch. Now they do something usefull--like help light up deer !
Make sure the one on the left is down enough so that it is not blinding oncoming cars.
As far as alignment, with a Silverstar Headlight bulb, my passing lamps aligned to the book don't do squat. What I've done is aligned them out and down, shining across the top of the shoulder of the road and down into the ditch. Now they do something usefull--like help light up deer !
Make sure the one on the left is down enough so that it is not blinding oncoming cars.
#7
I have just grabbed them with both hands and moved them, but use a socket I made by cutting a slit in a cheap socket with a dremel, when they are loose. I bought a cheap set to deep well sockets and cut the 9/16 for passing lamp adjustment and the 11/16 (I think) for clutch adjustment, so you can hold the socket head and torque to spec.
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#8
#9
Ive an older bagger. A 1992. On the passing lamps adjustment. There's a special socket required for loosening and tightening the nut that holds the lamp mount to the passing lamp bracket. What size is the nut? The special tool thats used is a "Socket, Flare Nut, 3/8", 6-Point" I'm not willing to modify any of my sockets to do this. I saw that Snap-On Tools makes this type of socket. But $40.00 is too much for one socket.
RJ
RJ
Or you could get one of these.........
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HARLEY-TOOL-FLH-FLHR-FLHT-FLHTC-FLHTCUI-FLHRC-FLSTC_W0QQitemZ150304619974QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m150304619974&_trkparms=39%3A1|65%3A10|240%3A1318& _trksid=p4506.c0.m245
#10
I installed the bullet front turn signals on my RKC. Being new to wrenching my own bike, I didn't realize I didn't have the right tools until it was too late. Whether you make one or buy one, the notched socket is a must. I got my passing lamps so screwed up in the process, I ended up running over to the dealer to have them unscrew my scew up. I watched the guy use a screwdriver with a flexible shaft and interchangeable tips to loosen the screws you're talking about. Worked like a charm and seemed to be much easier than a ball-tipped allen wrench.