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Best Way To Lower Gear Ratio?

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  #61  
Old 09-26-2008, 09:31 PM
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Yeah, it may have been a fluke guys. I don't have a clue, but sure have reciepts of what it all cost me with trying to get the evo 49t conversion to work for me..
Good luck to you guys!

I sure would like to see something economical to fix the low gear problem cheaper than the Baker DD7. I'm going to have to wait a while for the money tree to put out new leaves before I jump on that aftermarket trany. But I like what they told me about it.

Oh BTW, I have an '08 Ultra, not '07 with ABS if that means anything, and yes it is an electronic throttle.
 
  #62  
Old 09-26-2008, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ken thompson
The "more oomph" and "better gas mileage" require two different directions with respect to ratios. Can't get both.
Not necessarily true. If your engine is lugging in high gear, a lower gear ratio will get it into a more favorable power band, and increase gas miliege even though the rpm's are higher. Many owners of '07s and '08s have posted that they get better miliege not using 6th gear.

It is easy to check. Just ride in one gear lower for a set distance and at the same speed, and compare the mileage to what you get in top gear. You can also mark your throttle grip, and see what position it is in in different gears. You may find that in high gear you are twisting the throttle farther to achieve the same speed (another sign of lugging an engine).

You may also get a higher top speed with a lower gear ratio. If your engine cannot reach peak rpm in high gear, it may well go faster in a lower gear (or lower gear ratio), as it will have the power to achieve maximum rpm.

The Harley mileage specs are the same for the '09 and the '08, even though the engine is running faster, and the bikes are heavier.

Back in the days of the 55mph national speed limit, I had a Yamaha xs750, with a five speed. In 5th gear, my pipes were sooty and the bike would not climb even the gentlest of hills without loosing speed. Driving in 4th gear eliminated the problems, and gas mileage increased noticeably, and the pipes turned a nice charcoal gray instead of sooty.
 

Last edited by MNPGRider; 09-26-2008 at 11:11 PM.
  #63  
Old 09-27-2008, 09:45 AM
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I jsut ordered the 49T conversion to try with my motor upgrade were just going to be doing. The gear change on the primary/engine side made more sense to me. Where my concern is in speaking with Evo Industries he never mentioned any other issues. I went with the billet unit and didn't skimp. I can understand the concept of how the rpm/tire speed may effect the 6th gear light. However since Rocknrod did not loose cruise, but didn't mention loosing his 6th gear, I'm uncertain to what issues we may have. I did leave a message with Evo hoping to catch them before my kit arrives. I'm also wondering since I do not have a factory ecu, I might have adjustment ability over a the factory unit using the zippers ecu. I would not hold Evo Industries in high regards in their R&D didn't point this out and he did not pass this info on. The lack of disclosure of that info would leave him libel.
 
  #64  
Old 09-27-2008, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdoghd
I jsut ordered the 49T conversion to try with my motor upgrade were just going to be doing. The gear change on the primary/engine side made more sense to me. Where my concern is in speaking with Evo Industries he never mentioned any other issues. I went with the billet unit and didn't skimp. I can understand the concept of how the rpm/tire speed may effect the 6th gear light. However since Rocknrod did not loose cruise, but didn't mention loosing his 6th gear, I'm uncertain to what issues we may have. I did leave a message with Evo hoping to catch them before my kit arrives. I'm also wondering since I do not have a factory ecu, I might have adjustment ability over a the factory unit using the zippers ecu. I would not hold Evo Industries in high regards in their R&D didn't point this out and he did not pass this info on. The lack of disclosure of that info would leave him libel.

Let us know about cruise. I do not have it on my 07 now but may add it later.
 
  #65  
Old 09-27-2008, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tom73
Let us know about cruise. I do not have it on my 07 now but may add it later.
This makes sense, thank's for setting us straight on the model year.
With that said,
I emailed EVO for their installation instructions and at the top the 49t clutch sprocket instruction it states the following:

NOTE: P/N: EV-37956 AND EV-38556
6th gear light will not work on 2007/2008 models
Cruise control will work on 2007 - will not work on 2008 model


On the top of the 30T motor sprocket instructions it states:

6th gear light will not work on 2007/2008 models
Cruise control will work on 2007 - will not on some 2008

That clears it up I think, If you have a 07 all is good, 08's stay away from the 49t.
 
  #66  
Old 09-27-2008, 09:09 PM
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That's BS they don't mention that when you buy it. Very bad business practice, if I would have ordered some for stock, I might of been out the money.
 
  #67  
Old 09-27-2008, 09:54 PM
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OOOOH......Looks like Evo Industries are covering their buttt with that new little warning statement. I wonder if now they won't refund 49t sprockets and furnish free replacement 46t sprockets and 1/2 install labor if they won't work? Dumb question, eh?

I wonder if they will work in the '09's? They are fly by wire too...they need to include them in the exclusion statement.
 
  #68  
Old 10-04-2008, 07:50 PM
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Default INSTALLED 49T Sprocket - Impressions

I received my 49T sprocket on Thursday and installed it on Friday with the help of a friend. Below are some observations regarding quality, installation and performance.

Quality - Sprocket appears to be a quality product. Item was shipped quickly directly from Evolution.

Installation - First the instructions provided from Evolution stink. Have a service manual available when starting this job. Total time to complete was approximately 3.5 hours. I am sure if I had to do it again I could take at least 90 minutes off of that install time. Make sure you have the proper tool to lock the engine or clutch sprocket when removing the primary gears and chain. Once the clutch is removed you will need to disassemble the clutch. To drill out the rivets you will need to press the clutch hub from the Clutch basket. Once that is done you can begin drilling out the factory rivets which hold the clutch sprocket in place. BE SURE TO DUCT TAPE THE BEARING BEFORE YOU START TO DRILL OUT THE RIVETS. The rivets are relatively soft but you will be making a lot of metal shavings. Once the old sprocket is removed you will need to use a 5/16 bit to enlarge the holes in the basket. Then you will need to create a 9/16 recess for the new bolts to fit into the basket. You will need a counter-bore drill bit. We ended up modifying a standard 9/16 bit to create the proper counter-bore but be careful not to remove too much material. At this point remove the tape and clean any metal out of the basket. Bolt the new sprocket to the basket utilizing red loctite. I did notice during assembly that the primary chain was pretty loose but the tensioner did take up the slack.

Performance - When I first started the bike the primary was pretty loud. However after riding it more the sounds have diminished. Not sure if it is my primary fluid or the tensioner. My friend who is a pretty good wrench believes it is the tensioner. I will find out next week when I change the primary oil. Before I mention initial riding impressions please note that I have only put 75 miles on it since the conversion. On the first ride it was definitely noticeable that first gear was higher. Before I felt I had to slip the clutch for the first few feet and now I can start off right away. While rolling at a low speed and cracking on the throttle you can definintely feel a difference. How much of a difference? IMO minimal but there is a difference. What I did notice is the gear rations feel better when shifting. Before I felt they were spread apart pretty far and now it feels they way it should. I am also getting into 6th gear without feeling I am lugging the engine. 75MPH is 6th puts me a tic below 3K RPM. I will cruise the highway sometimes at 85 MHP but don't do that very often and this was well worth that sacrifice. I did lose my 6th Gear light that I never could see anyway.

In all it was definitely worth the effort to change. I wanted to make all of the gears shorter and mission accomplished. I know I could have gone with changing the engine sprocket but I would love the compensator. To change the pulleys would require a belt change which is a PITA. One of the best value modifications I have done. It does take some time to complete and will require a press and a few special tools (Counter bore drill bit) but it is manageable. I did not have Cruise so I cannot tell you how that would be effected but others have addressed these issues. If anyone has any specific questions feel free to PM me or leave your comments on this thread.
 

Last edited by tom73; 10-04-2008 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Added Additional Content
  #69  
Old 10-04-2008, 09:09 PM
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I just want to lower 1st gear, but not enough to spend $2900 on a DD7.
 
  #70  
Old 10-04-2008, 11:09 PM
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Just had to add my $.02 worth on something. I've seen sooo many times in this thread people stating that if you lower your final gear ratio (slightly) you will lose fuel mileage. That is not always the case. If you get the engine running say 200 rpms faster but it is in an easier running area of the power band you can actually gain mileage. In other words, the engine may not be lugging as much at say 75mph with the slightly lower gears and therefore may not be working as hard....resulting in better mileage. If higher gearing always made for better mileage they all would be 1:1 and we know that would never work!

Although the statement is often true....it is not necessarily always true. Try the swap and let us know.
 


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