I noticed on my trip this weekend a little popping on decel and a slight flat spot on take off. 08SG, Rheinharts True duals, SE A/C, SE Race Tuner, Dealer Dyno tune, 1600 miles on bike. Tune was done on a 0mile bike. I didn't notice these things before, but I was only running around town.

I know that you loose a little low end with the Rheinharts, but is a slight flat spot and some decel popping normal with my set-up?

The bike runs great otherwise. My question.. Will the dealer re-do the tune for these small things at no charge? Or should I get ready to open my wallet?

Anyone ever go back for a re-do tune?

Thanks Guys!

 

You will end up paying for it again. I have the same thing with the popping on deceleration. They told me with the set up I have (SE race tuner, stage 1 air cleaner and true duals) there is no way to have that happen. The race tuner is for high end RPM's so until you reach the 2000's, you will notice a little flat spot/hesitation. That was the Las Vegas dealer but yours might redo it if you bring it to their attention. Good Luck!

Chris

 

I bet you have developed an exhaust leak; either at the cylinder or where the slip-on's join the exhaust pipe. Before I spent money on a re-tune, I would purchase new exhaust gaskets and a tube of high temp silicone. Replace the gaskets, then silicone the slip-on's. Total cost: $10-$12. Much cheaper than a tune. This should take care of your problem.

m.a.c.

 

A full tune should not be done before the brake-in period is over. A competent tuner can eliminate all the decel popping. Exhaust leaks will also cause decel popping. Make sure there are no leaks at the heads and where the mufflers slip on.

There's a good sticky post on the Electrical/Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection forum by the name of 5 Questions to ask your tuner by Doc 1. If they want to charge you again, start asking questions.

 

As said above, you should have gotten a map at install or a partial tune and went for final at around 1000 miles. I just did a build and road to Milwaukee, then took it in for the final tune. Here again it was planned that way from the start. I have also had work done on other bikes and have taken it back in for minor tweaks with the tune and have never been charged. I am sure not all dealers operate that way though. Good luck.

 

Pardon my ignorance on this, but what would change that you would need to wait until brake-in? The only thing that I could see changing would be the rings seating into the cylinders and a few other things wearing in, but why would that change the tune. New motors are set-up in all motor sports and they don't wait until they have 1000 miles on them to do a race tune.
Maybe I am missing something on this.

 

You can't or should not run full throttle until after break in. They only tuned my new build to 60% throttle untill I got back from Milwaukee. On my other bikes
I never did the mods until after 1000 miles for that reason. But they still would tweak for free if I was not happy.

 

My guess would be that the dealer did the break-in while on the dyno. If he didn't, he should have.

 

Yes, the dealer should have and probably did do the break in on the dyno. Did you change anything since the first tune? Regarding full throttle, I guarantee I'm not going there... The Indy who did my 107 build also did my tune and he is really great. I think there is a huge difference based on the experience of the tuner. I hate to admit it but I threw out about $600 when I had a dealer do the initial tune. Originally I put SE mufflers and SE air cleaner, my net gain was nothing. I watched the Indy do the tune and he really worked it and worked it. Just my opinion but I'd find someone who really knows how to tune. My guy knows the SERT and the other stuff out there. Ask around.

 

I understand what you said, but I still don't understand why that would affect the tune. What they are setting is the fuel and air managment at several different r.p.m's to program the ECM, with the items that have been changed from stock (exhaust,and A/C).

The fact that my bike was taken to the red line and yours was taken to 60% should not matter, or I can't see why it would. My mecanic at the dealer told me it was much worse to lug a new motor than to put it on the dyno run the r.p.m's up and down and set it up properly.

I still may be missing something here!