I had a True-Track installed while at Sturgis and can no longer get my J&S jack under the bike without leaning it way over to the right and shoving the jack with my foot, or having help. Once on the jack it is no longer as stable as when the jack is in the "dog bone" cross member. I suspect this would also be a problem on a Street Glide as I have the Street Glide shocks on the rear. I have two questions:

1. Am I the only one with the problem?
2. Does anyone make a satabilizer that does not mount in the frame cross member?

True-Track has offered to refund my money and I'm going to take advantage of their offer if I can find another one that will work with the jack.

Thanks,
Jim

 

I have the same problem with my street glide which is even lower.

I don't use the J & S jack very often and simply remove the center stand when I need to put it on the jack. I have got to where I can take the center stand off in two minutes and put it back on in three minutes.

Good luck

 

Sorry after reading your post again I may be off track. I have a problem with clearence on the center stand. Not sure I understand exactly what you are referring to.

Sorry

 

Take a look at: www.baggerbrace.com I've heard some good things about it. Also a good price.

 

Just drive the rear wheel up on a 3/4" to 1" thick board. (I used a piece of an old shelf) Jack will fit under it then. Yes, I had a SG, true-track, and a J&S jack.

No need to go changing stabilizers or jacks.

 

Did you find the bike to be as stable on the jack with the True-Track installed as it was without it? It doesn't seem like it is to me.

I'll try the board tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I never tried it that way. Had the true-trak on the bike before I bought the jack. While I agree that the security of having the rear jack arm fit down into the "notch" in the frame cross member would prevent the bike from sliding forward or backward on the jack, I think the odds of an 800 lb. bike resting on the jack sliding at all, are pretty slim.

One thing I realized, that (DUH) was right in the jack instructions, that makes perfect sense, is that the bike is MORE stable with the jack lifted all the way up. Because the jack arms are closer to vertical and not extended out horizontal, the weight is not resting on horizontal arm (which can flex) but resting on the top of a (mostly) vertical post (so to speak)

Makes sense when you think about it.

Then again, your talking to a guy who sold the jack, because it just flat out makes me too damn nervous to see my "baby" 2 feet up in the air like that, even when she's on one of the two best (and most stable) jacks out there (J&S and Pitbull) In fairness, could have been sitting up there on a 2 foot solid steel block, and I would have still been sweating bullets. Its not the jack, its me.

 

I have a Bagger Brace stabilizer installed which uses the cross member just like the True-Track to mount their brace. I have a $50. Harbor Freight lift/jack and it works just fine without having to slide 'through' the 'dog-bone'. You can line up the jack right under the stabilizer bracket where the dog bone is and it'll be fine. It's not going anywhere. LOL. That cross member/dog bone wasn't put there by HD for jacks.

I wouldn't go changing out anything. Not worth it at all. Good luck

 

The J&S jack is much wider and heavier than the Harbor Freight one and the cross member is a perfect place to slide it so I'm going to keep doing it that way. But thanks for the insight.

 

I have to use a board under the front wheel to get my jack underneath it.