Change oil before winter storage or in the spring?
#11
#12
I change the oil/filter just before storing, add Sta-bill, hook up the battery tender and cover it.
#14
When it comes to Cheap maintenance such as an oil change - even at $10/quart synthetic it is cheap compared to "what could happen" - I change my oil in fall before storage and in the spring, will change after the first 500 miles. then go my normal interval of every 2500 unless on long trip then it goes 5,000 miles. I take annual 4000 - 7000 mile trip - if trip is over 5000 miles, will change somewhere along the way.
#15
The only way oil will get condensation in it is if the engine is started when it is cold out. The cooling process will invite moisture into the engine, exhaust, tank and elsewhere. So you should never start the engine during the winter months. Change the oil, wash&wax it, put a cover on it, plug the battery tender in and leave it until spring. Then start it up and ride. The first time the bike comes to operating temps, any amount of condensation that may be in the engine will turn to steam and exit via the crankcase vent. There is no need to change the oil in the spring if you have changed it already in the fall.
#16
#18
The only way oil will get condensation in it is if the engine is started when it is cold out. The cooling process will invite moisture into the engine, exhaust, tank and elsewhere. So you should never start the engine during the winter months. Change the oil, wash&wax it, put a cover on it, plug the battery tender in and leave it until spring. Then start it up and ride. The first time the bike comes to operating temps, any amount of condensation that may be in the engine will turn to steam and exit via the crankcase vent. There is no need to change the oil in the spring if you have changed it already in the fall.
#19
For many years, engine manufactures recommended oil change intervals be based on miles OR time (i.e. 3000 miles or 3 months whichever comes first). Reason being - once the the oil starts to oxidize, the oxidation process does not stop just because the engine isn't being run. The oxidation process starts the first time the oil is brought up to operating temp - a natural byproduct of combustion is condensation. Most people, after changing the oil, fire it up - that introduces moisture into the crankcase which will now sit all winter. I prefer to play it safe and in my 25 years of riding, I've never had an engine failure of any kind.
My father did it that way, my grandfather before him (rode an old Indians and Harleys in the 40s and 50s).
Last edited by Weavr99FLHT; 09-10-2008 at 02:57 PM.
#20
So you guys really think it matters that much? Come on give me a break. This stuff cracks me up.
Fill er up with some stabil, top everything off, wash her up, plug it into a battery tender and DON't run it in the winter unless you're going to get it to full temp (this means ride it). It will be fine either way. You guys trade these bikes in before it would matter anyways...
Fill er up with some stabil, top everything off, wash her up, plug it into a battery tender and DON't run it in the winter unless you're going to get it to full temp (this means ride it). It will be fine either way. You guys trade these bikes in before it would matter anyways...