I have the HD running lamp/Brake lamp/Turn signal kit on my '06 Street Glide. I want to replace the bulbs with 1156 LED bulbs (adapter type LEDs- not full LED replacement type). Will I require a load equalizer to get them to work properly?

The LED bulbs are only $10 each, so I don't really want to spend a lot of money on a load equalizer. Thanks...

Also what would happen if I put in 1157 bulbs in the rear? Would they be brighter when the brake or turn signals were activated than the dual filament 1156s? Thanks for your help!

 

If you are going to just run led's on just the front or the rear,you want need a LE,but if you run them in front and rear you will.Sorry.Your turn signal blinker is machanical,and the led's don't carrt enough power to make it blink.I have led turn signals just on the rear of my bike and they work fine.They have the red lens and are running lights and blinkers.

 

I was wondering this samething........been looking at putting LED lights in the directionals.

All of my rear lights now are LED except for the directionals.......so maybe I'll just grab a set for the rear and see how it works.

I thought I had read somewheres in a magazine that you no longer need a load equalizer with the newer Harleys......maybe I read it wrong.

Steve

 

I needed a Load Equlizer with my 07.

 

Just need to replace the signal pod with an electronic one..

 

How abouts do we do that?

Steve

 

I have an '06 EGC. I have LED directionals front and rear, LED tourpak and saddlebag spoilers, LED HogLite, LED tail light, LED saddlebag latches which are running and directional, LED tourpak side marker lights and LED amber light strips on my front fender. My tourpak, saddlebag and HogLites are wired to flash before going solid for braking and I DO NOT HAVE A LOAD EQUALIZER.My headlight and 2 passing lamps are the only non LED lights on my scoot.

 

I have an '05 Ultra with LED's from Radiantz on my front & rear signals and tail light, also have LED's from RideTime Technology on the side of my tour pak hooked up as run/turn. I installed the Run/Turn/Brake controller from Badlands that has a built-in load equalizer. All of my lights work without flaw and the Badlands controller makes it all happen without disturbing my HD security system.

 

if you have a tsm/tssm type turn signal system (came out in '00 or '01) then you don't need the 'equalizer', the two sides of the bike only need to draw the same amount of current. If the Tsm senses lower current draw on one side, it will stop flashing and maybe throw a code. If you have an old school turn signal module (used through most of the 80's and 90's) there is a minimum amount of current draw required to get it to flash. the "equalizer" is nothing more than a pair of resistors in a heat sink. I forget
the resistance value, but it's easy to figure out. Measure the amps drawn by the factory bulb and subtract the amps drawn by the replacement bulb, do some math and pick up a pair of heavy duty ceramic resistors, mount them with heat sink compound to
something large and metal to draw away the excess heat, and wire each of them between the signal bus and ground. Another thing I've seen done is to wire an additional pair of turn signal bulbs onto the bus and wrap them up in something heat resistant and stuff them away out of sight.

Hogdoctor

 

1156 bulbs are only for bright use. 1157 has a dim filament for a marker light as well.
They require differnt sockets, as the 1156 only has one contact button on it and 1157 have two. I changed my rear turn signal housings to match the front, so I"m running 1157's all around. FTR I've never seen a 'dual filament' 1156.

Hogdoctor