LED Bulbs Turn Signal / Load Equalizer Required?
#11
09-02-2008, 05:24 PM
Elite HDF Member
if you have a tsm/tssm type turn signal system (came out in '00 or '01) then you don't need the 'equalizer', the two sides of the bike only need to draw the same amount of current. If the Tsm senses lower current draw on one side, it will stop flashing and maybe throw a code. If you have an old school turn signal module (used through most of the 80's and 90's) there is a minimum amount of current draw required to get it to flash. the "equalizer" is nothing more than a pair of resistors in a heat sink. I forget
the resistance value, but it's easy to figure out. Measure the amps drawn by the factory bulb and subtract the amps drawn by the replacement bulb, do some math and pick up a pair of heavy duty ceramic resistors, mount them with heat sink compound to
something large and metal to draw away the excess heat, and wire each of them between the signal bus and ground. Another thing I've seen done is to wire an additional pair of turn signal bulbs onto the bus and wrap them up in something heat resistant and stuff them away out of sight.
Hogdoctor
the resistance value, but it's easy to figure out. Measure the amps drawn by the factory bulb and subtract the amps drawn by the replacement bulb, do some math and pick up a pair of heavy duty ceramic resistors, mount them with heat sink compound to
something large and metal to draw away the excess heat, and wire each of them between the signal bus and ground. Another thing I've seen done is to wire an additional pair of turn signal bulbs onto the bus and wrap them up in something heat resistant and stuff them away out of sight.
Hogdoctor
I'm going to order some front and rear LED's for the blinkers and see how it works out.
Steve
#12
10-31-2008, 10:25 AM
Cruiser
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beautiful Western Kentucky
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
question about custom leds
Im replacing my rear fender on a 07 street glide with a wide fender with a led license plate. My question is i have found some custom leds for a street rod that i want to mount on my saddle bags. I see no reason a car or truck led would not work on a motorcycle? The volt draw is 10 to 15? any ideas as to the most current dram i could use? thanks guys!
Last edited by kjtoys; 10-31-2008 at 10:29 AM.
#13
02-28-2009, 06:00 PM
More LED signal confusion...
...I have a '94 FLHR with rear LED turn and brake lights. The fronts are incadescent. The issue I'm having is that the left side signal works properly, front and rear...but the right side lights up front and rear, but does not flash. I don't have a load equilizer on it...and for the moment, I'm stumped with no idea how to fix it. Man I hate electrical problems! Anyone know what to do?
rwosr
rwosr
#15
02-28-2009, 06:16 PM
I have an '06 EGC. I have LED directionals front and rear, LED tourpak and saddlebag spoilers, LED HogLite, LED tail light, LED saddlebag latches which are running and directional, LED tourpak side marker lights and LED amber light strips on my front fender. My tourpak, saddlebag and HogLites are wired to flash before going solid for braking and I DO NOT HAVE A LOAD EQUALIZER.My headlight and 2 passing lamps are the only non LED lights on my scoot.
Damn Soos.. ya answered my question! I've got the same scooter.
#17
03-01-2009, 06:42 AM
Road Master
SOOS...Thanks fo bringing that up! Earlier last year there was a post that told most of us that all you need to do was unhook your battery...plug in the LEDs and re-hook your battery. that the system would learn the loads and adjust...darned if I can find that post now!
I've seen alot of guys without load equalizers and the don't have the tell tale fast blinks, Throwing codes or security light stuck in the ON position.
I guess everyone had different experiences. I just hate to throw and LE in the their if dont' need one.
Ride Safe, Mike
I've seen alot of guys without load equalizers and the don't have the tell tale fast blinks, Throwing codes or security light stuck in the ON position.
I guess everyone had different experiences. I just hate to throw and LE in the their if dont' need one.
Ride Safe, Mike
Last edited by StreetGlideMedic; 03-04-2009 at 04:45 AM.
#18
03-01-2009, 09:28 AM
"equalizer" is a poorly named product.... it's simply a ceramic resistor that draws additional current from the turn signal module to replace the current lost when converting to the more efficient LED lamps. You can pick up a few ceramic resistors and jb weld them to a hidden bare spot on the frame to provide a good heat sink, and wire them in parallel to the lamps. Another thing you can do is take the bulbs you removed from the circuit at the back, and wire the bulbs into the circuit somewhere else, hide them inside your tourpak or somewhere else they won't be seen flashing.
Hogdoctor
Hogdoctor
#19
03-01-2009, 09:47 AM
Im replacing my rear fender on a 07 street glide with a wide fender with a led license plate. My question is i have found some custom leds for a street rod that i want to mount on my saddle bags. I see no reason a car or truck led would not work on a motorcycle? The volt draw is 10 to 15? any ideas as to the most current dram i could use? thanks guys!
You are right KT. On my 03 Superglide, I put 1939 Ford tear drop LED tail lights mounted on the sadle bags and they worked great. Now, I have 1939 Chevy tail lights for run/blinkers on my 05. They all come from Technostalgia. www.COOL-LEDs.com They are not for motorcycles, they are for hot rods, but they don't know the difference. Its all 12 volt. The 39 chevy lights fit right in the pancake turn signals on the touring bikes. You have to drill and tap new holes, and tap into your tail light wires.They emit red light, so you can use red or smoked lens.
#20
04-25-2009, 04:30 PM
Elite HDF Member
if you have a tsm/tssm type turn signal system (came out in '00 or '01) then you don't need the 'equalizer', the two sides of the bike only need to draw the same amount of current. If the Tsm senses lower current draw on one side, it will stop flashing and maybe throw a code. If you have an old school turn signal module (used through most of the 80's and 90's) there is a minimum amount of current draw required to get it to flash. the "equalizer" is nothing more than a pair of resistors in a heat sink. I forget
the resistance value, but it's easy to figure out. Measure the amps drawn by the factory bulb and subtract the amps drawn by the replacement bulb, do some math and pick up a pair of heavy duty ceramic resistors, mount them with heat sink compound to
something large and metal to draw away the excess heat, and wire each of them between the signal bus and ground. Another thing I've seen done is to wire an additional pair of turn signal bulbs onto the bus and wrap them up in something heat resistant and stuff them away out of sight.
Hogdoctor
the resistance value, but it's easy to figure out. Measure the amps drawn by the factory bulb and subtract the amps drawn by the replacement bulb, do some math and pick up a pair of heavy duty ceramic resistors, mount them with heat sink compound to
something large and metal to draw away the excess heat, and wire each of them between the signal bus and ground. Another thing I've seen done is to wire an additional pair of turn signal bulbs onto the bus and wrap them up in something heat resistant and stuff them away out of sight.
Hogdoctor
Load Equalizer?
Steve