Nice write-up iclick, I read through the whole thread.
I want to do this to my 2008 SG, and have a couple of questions.

Is this a good list of tools and materials needed for the job?

36mm wrench. Do you think a bicycle wrench like this would work?
#3 Phillips head bit w/ 3/8" drive socket
1/2" clear plastic tub
Small funnel
One quarts SE Heavy Fork Oil PN: 99881-87
Measuring cup

And were there any o-rings or other seals needed when reinstalling the cap and plug?

 

With this process work for a 2006 Street Glide?

 

Pardon a slightly off-topic question, but I read that several of you discovered terrible oil color and some said it also smelled bad. Well....

The last time I changed out fork oil from a brand new scoot was back in the late 60's and (back then anyway) the rumor was that it was "fish oil", not petrolium based oil, the factory used for first fill and that's why it was almost black and stank so much. Could have been a bunch of BS too and I'm dumber than dirt so do any of you know if that's true?

 

This should work, but you don't have a lot of room to work by just pulling the fairing insert cap aside. The 36mm wrench in the stock HD tool kit was perfect, and since the cap isn't torqued down tightly there isn't a need for a lot of leverage. I tried a 36mm socket for my 1/2"-drive ratchet and also a large crescent wrench, but neither fit in the available area.

That should do it, except the fork oil comes in 16-oz. bottles, so you'll need two since each fork holds 10.8 oz. (11.1 oz. for RK). Like I mentioned in my write-up, loosening the drain screws was the hardest part of the job, and I almost didn't get the left side. Don't even try this with a screwdriver, as you won't get enough bite. The #3 Phillips bit is perfect, and although I don't recall what size ratchet I used you should be able to use anything from 1/4" to 1/2". Just put a lot of pressure on it while turning, as it is on tight and you don't want to strip the head. Some have had to resort to vise grips to get them off.

The top cap has an "oil seal" (#45733-48) that costs about $1, but I didn't change mine since it looked fine. If you are at the HD shop for the fork oil, you might as well pick up two while you're there. The drain screw has a copper washer that could be changed, but again I didn't do it. I never had a problem with these on my old RK, so I tend to re-use them several times.

 

Well, I can't say that it smelled like decayed fish, but it didn't smell like any fluid I've ever purchased in a store and it was a strong, very odd odor and nearly black. These forks are made by Showa in Japan, so who knows. I did a Google search and there are quite a few references to the Japanese using using fish oil in their forks.

 

Great write up. Thanks!

I did mine in my '07RG at 15K (3600 ago) and the oil was freaking nasty too. I don't remember the oil in my FXD being that bad when I did it on that bike. Anyway, the only other thing I might mention is flushing the fork with a couple ounces of the new oil before putting the lower drian plug back on. Let this also drain out fully for a couple minutes. You'll see it run clean. Then plug and refill.

It is a nice ride upgrade. I have much less dive and much better dampening.

 

Thanks iclick. Just curious about it and isn't germane to the real topic so I appreciate the response. BTW - That prior "brand new scoot" of mine was indeed a ricer so your Goggle'ing along with Showa being OEM today might indeed be the answer.

 

i did this on my 06. but the 36 mm was the wrong size. mine was 1 3/8 . also replace the rubber gaskets under the bolts and if its 06 or older use the new allen bolts for the bottom drin screw strip way to easy!. 1/2 " hose will fit rite in the top fill weach side with half the proper amount ;lower bike with caps on then push the forks. they will bounce easy do 5 or 6 bounces raise bike then fill with the remainder of the proper oil. i ended up using the s/e race fork oil and noticed a firmer ride without harshness or banging over bumps.
oh yes my oil stunk to high heaven! also pure black color

 

Thanks iclick. I'm going to pick up a 36mm combination wrench at Northern Tools instead. I may am also get a 36mm axle nut wrench from eBay.

When I'm at the dealer, I'll pick up two pints of Heavy Fork Oil, two top cap has an oil seal and a set of oil drain screws.

 

Thanks for the added info.