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'07 Fork Oil Change

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  #121  
Old 08-14-2009, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by robzuc97
If you chuck the service manual and you're happy with the results: kewl. "It really is easy, and I can't figure out why the Moco dictates such a drawn-out procedure in the service manual. I suspect it is because they can charge three hours for fork oil changes, then use the top and drain plugs to complete the job in one hour. Otherwise, why would they retain the drain plug in the forks?" Answer: Because the level of the fork oil is accurately measured with a Pro-level gauge with the spring and spacers removed with fork "lightly" compressed to avoid putting too much, too little, or unequal amounts in each affecting ride & handling, hence the need to remove the forks. Plus disassembly, using the special tools listed in the service manual, allows inspection of and/or replacement of worn or damaged internal components. How's your seals and internal parts for wear? You don't know because didn't check them. The crap in the fork oil is from the crap that wears off the internal parts. The forks are made by Showa and would cost "X" cents multiplied by how many units sold for HD to remove? Just like Buells have "FORD" stamped on their Delphi connections instead of "BUELL". Cost prohibitive to redesign. No: dealers are not doing it the "backyard-quickie method" and charging you for the correct way it's supposed to be done. Probably why they are getting that "$85 an hour" because they're doing what is NOT written in the Maintenance Schedule. Just like when the battery says "I" for "inspect", they don't just visually look at it but perform specific tests on it. They do what the maintenance calls for at it's required service interval not the "quick & easy".
You're either extremely naive or you're just being sarcastic. I can't tell which. Dealer service departments, especially those owned by Harley dealers, are the epitome of ripoff parlors.

Thanks iclick, for giving us one more way to avoid dealership hassles.
 
  #122  
Old 08-14-2009, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by call911s
I've seen discussions about pre-2000 and 06+, but is there anything special about this process with and 03 RKC? At 35k now, and might be a good rainy day project...
The '02-'05's have cartridge forks, which may involve a different procedure. I do know that disassembling these forks is more involved than earlier or later models and requires special tools, but I can't say how this method would work with them.
 
  #123  
Old 08-14-2009, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jpooch00
You're either extremely naive or you're just being sarcastic. I can't tell which. Dealer service departments, especially those owned by Harley dealers, are the epitome of ripoff parlors.

Thanks iclick, for giving us one more way to avoid dealership hassles.
You're welcome. The forks are still doing great after 10k miles, so I have no reason to believe we need to revert to the more-arduous procedures outlined in the service manual. When I do it again, probably at 20k intervals, I'll follow the same procedure. I didn't see Robzuc97's post back in October or I would've responded to it.
 
  #124  
Old 08-14-2009, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by iclick
You're welcome. The forks are still doing great after 10k miles, so I have no reason to believe we need to revert to the more-arduous procedures outlined in the service manual. When I do it again, probably at 20k intervals, I'll follow the same procedure. I didn't see Robzuc97's post back in October or I would've responded to it.
I wouldn't bother - he was whining about us not doing things by the book. Problem with his argument is that the book says to do it at 50K.

We were talking about interim and upgrade changes. So, given his perspective - the mighty MOCO knows its all good, until 50K. As far as micro adjusting the fluid; I believe there's enough compressible air in there to accommodate a tablespoon one way or the other, if not we would have heard about front ends blowing up. Just my automotive engineering perspective.
 
  #125  
Old 08-14-2009, 08:53 PM
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iclick there was someone a month or two ago who did a great write up on this issue. i have no idea as to how to use the search function in here, but it was a great write up on the fork oil change. it was also on a late model batwing fairing as well.
 
  #126  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:23 AM
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Great write up iclick!!
 
  #127  
Old 08-23-2009, 10:45 PM
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iclick
Thanks for the writeup. After doing it as you outlined I was thinking that I probably wouldn't have come up with that procedure myself without a lot of trial and error. So, thanks for saving me a lot of grief figuring this thing out.

As usual, I didn't read your instructions thoroughly so screwed up the first fill. Once I got it right, it went smoothly. The outcome of having the heavier oil in the forks was amazing. Firmer ride and got rid of the wallowing in some corners.

I have to tell you my main apprehension was dealing with the ignition. Wound up having to take it apart and put it back together 4 times (can never get things right the first time) and surprisingly, never had a problem. Moving bars all over the place went back together just fine. Hope my luck holds next time.
 
  #128  
Old 08-24-2009, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RexBuck
iclick

I have to tell you my main apprehension was dealing with the ignition. Wound up having to take it apart and put it back together 4 times (can never get things right the first time) and surprisingly, never had a problem. Moving bars all over the place went back together just fine. Hope my luck holds next time.
The ignition shouldn't be a problem if you remove the **** and replace it in the same position. I keep my forks straight, turn the **** all the way to the left (lock), then remove it as per the prescribed method. If you have small hands you can use a small finger to push the tab instead of a screwdriver. You can then move the handlebars around as you wish, but stay away from the left full-lock position, then replace the **** mechanism in the same position you removed it. If you do that nothing should go awry.

The only time I had a problem was when I replaced the **** to unlock the forks after moving them too far to the left, but forget to include the spacers. By doing that the **** and tumblers were not in the correct position and I had to futz around with a screwdriver 'til I got everything aligned properly.
 
  #129  
Old 08-24-2009, 12:10 PM
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Yah, that left locked position is useless - can't take the fairing cap off there and can't get at anything on the left side. I got it in that position a couple of times (one because the manual says to and another when I turned the bars too far left) - so, thanks to your previous comments of having problems with it when you didn't put all the spacers back, I diligently reassembled the whole thing and it worked fine.
 
  #130  
Old 08-24-2009, 12:36 PM
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What about hooking up one of those hand style vacuum pumps to the bottom of the forks and using vacuum to draw it all out, then after it is out and measured letting the vacumm slowly release which would draw the fresh oil back up into the folks??
 


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