'07 Fork Oil Change
#121
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: People's Republic of Boulder Colorado
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If you chuck the service manual and you're happy with the results: kewl. "It really is easy, and I can't figure out why the Moco dictates such a drawn-out procedure in the service manual. I suspect it is because they can charge three hours for fork oil changes, then use the top and drain plugs to complete the job in one hour. Otherwise, why would they retain the drain plug in the forks?" Answer: Because the level of the fork oil is accurately measured with a Pro-level gauge with the spring and spacers removed with fork "lightly" compressed to avoid putting too much, too little, or unequal amounts in each affecting ride & handling, hence the need to remove the forks. Plus disassembly, using the special tools listed in the service manual, allows inspection of and/or replacement of worn or damaged internal components. How's your seals and internal parts for wear? You don't know because didn't check them. The crap in the fork oil is from the crap that wears off the internal parts. The forks are made by Showa and would cost "X" cents multiplied by how many units sold for HD to remove? Just like Buells have "FORD" stamped on their Delphi connections instead of "BUELL". Cost prohibitive to redesign. No: dealers are not doing it the "backyard-quickie method" and charging you for the correct way it's supposed to be done. Probably why they are getting that "$85 an hour" because they're doing what is NOT written in the Maintenance Schedule. Just like when the battery says "I" for "inspect", they don't just visually look at it but perform specific tests on it. They do what the maintenance calls for at it's required service interval not the "quick & easy".
Thanks iclick, for giving us one more way to avoid dealership hassles.
#122
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The '02-'05's have cartridge forks, which may involve a different procedure. I do know that disassembling these forks is more involved than earlier or later models and requires special tools, but I can't say how this method would work with them.
#123
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You're welcome. The forks are still doing great after 10k miles, so I have no reason to believe we need to revert to the more-arduous procedures outlined in the service manual. When I do it again, probably at 20k intervals, I'll follow the same procedure. I didn't see Robzuc97's post back in October or I would've responded to it.
#124
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You're welcome. The forks are still doing great after 10k miles, so I have no reason to believe we need to revert to the more-arduous procedures outlined in the service manual. When I do it again, probably at 20k intervals, I'll follow the same procedure. I didn't see Robzuc97's post back in October or I would've responded to it.
We were talking about interim and upgrade changes. So, given his perspective - the mighty MOCO knows its all good, until 50K. As far as micro adjusting the fluid; I believe there's enough compressible air in there to accommodate a tablespoon one way or the other, if not we would have heard about front ends blowing up. Just my automotive engineering perspective.
#125
#127
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iclick
Thanks for the writeup. After doing it as you outlined I was thinking that I probably wouldn't have come up with that procedure myself without a lot of trial and error. So, thanks for saving me a lot of grief figuring this thing out.
As usual, I didn't read your instructions thoroughly so screwed up the first fill. Once I got it right, it went smoothly. The outcome of having the heavier oil in the forks was amazing. Firmer ride and got rid of the wallowing in some corners.
I have to tell you my main apprehension was dealing with the ignition. Wound up having to take it apart and put it back together 4 times (can never get things right the first time) and surprisingly, never had a problem. Moving bars all over the place went back together just fine. Hope my luck holds next time.
Thanks for the writeup. After doing it as you outlined I was thinking that I probably wouldn't have come up with that procedure myself without a lot of trial and error. So, thanks for saving me a lot of grief figuring this thing out.
As usual, I didn't read your instructions thoroughly so screwed up the first fill. Once I got it right, it went smoothly. The outcome of having the heavier oil in the forks was amazing. Firmer ride and got rid of the wallowing in some corners.
I have to tell you my main apprehension was dealing with the ignition. Wound up having to take it apart and put it back together 4 times (can never get things right the first time) and surprisingly, never had a problem. Moving bars all over the place went back together just fine. Hope my luck holds next time.
#128
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iclick
I have to tell you my main apprehension was dealing with the ignition. Wound up having to take it apart and put it back together 4 times (can never get things right the first time) and surprisingly, never had a problem. Moving bars all over the place went back together just fine. Hope my luck holds next time.
I have to tell you my main apprehension was dealing with the ignition. Wound up having to take it apart and put it back together 4 times (can never get things right the first time) and surprisingly, never had a problem. Moving bars all over the place went back together just fine. Hope my luck holds next time.
The only time I had a problem was when I replaced the **** to unlock the forks after moving them too far to the left, but forget to include the spacers. By doing that the **** and tumblers were not in the correct position and I had to futz around with a screwdriver 'til I got everything aligned properly.
#129
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Yah, that left locked position is useless - can't take the fairing cap off there and can't get at anything on the left side. I got it in that position a couple of times (one because the manual says to and another when I turned the bars too far left) - so, thanks to your previous comments of having problems with it when you didn't put all the spacers back, I diligently reassembled the whole thing and it worked fine.
#130