I thought I saw on the forum somewhere, that you could replace the rear brake pads in 15 minutes or so. I have searched all the sections and can't find anything about it. I have a 2005 Ultra. I wonder if it can be done, most HD mechanics(dealer and non dealer)say only if you split the caliper and then you have to bleed the brake system...Don't know, just a new(used)HD owner and am looking to cut down on the maintenance cost..

Joe

 

If I remember correctly, it was the FRONT that was a 15 minute job. I think taking the rear wheel off is more than that alone; then you have to change the pads, and remount. Hopefully, you will be doing a tire at the same time.

 

I can't say "newer" bikes don't have to have the rear wheel removed to replace
rear brake pads, but my 2003 FLHTCI doesn't, nor is there any reference
to it in my service manual. Saddelbags yes. IF brakes feel spongy after completion,
THEN brakes should be bleed......!

Am I missing something?

Dennis
2003 FLHTCI

 

You can replace the rear pads in about a half an Hr. If you look at it and have a 1/4 inch 8 point socket or 12 point (someone help me out here) I can't remember which one it is...You can swing the caliper up and change the pads without taking off the wheel...

 

Just did my '06 EGC rear last week. About 1/2 hour, not much more. The socket for the pad pins is a 1/4", 12-point. Don't need to remove or even move the caliper. Here's the service manual (apologies for taking up the space):

Remove right side saddlebag. See Section 2.26 SADDLEBAG,
REMOVAL.
2. Loosen both pad pins, but do not remove. See Figure 2
3. Remove two Phillips screws to release cover from rear
master cylinder reservoir.
NOTE
As the pistons are pushed back into the caliper, fluid level
may rise more than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) and overflow the reservoir.
Watch the fluid level as the pistons are retracted and
remove fluid from the reservoir if necessary.
4. Pry the inside pad back pushing the pistons into their
bores. Use a putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid
scoring or scratching the brake disc.
NOTE
Do not completely pull pad pins from caliper during the next
step. Completely removing pad pins at this time will make
assembly difficult.
5. Once the pistons have been retracted, pull the pad pins
part way out until the inside pad drops free. Note the orientation
of the pad.
6. Install new inside brake pad using the same orientation.
Curved portion of pad must face rear of motorcycle.
7. Install pad pins, but do not fully tighten.
8. Pump rear brake pedal to move inside pistons out until
they contact inside brake pad.
9. Pry the outside pad back pushing the pistons into their
bores. Use a putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid
scoring or scratching the brake disc.
10. Verify that inside pad is captured between brake disc
and pistons. Completely remove pad pins to free outside
brake pad. Note the orientation of the pad.
11. Install new outside brake pad using the same orientation.
Curved portion of pad must face rear of motorcycle.
If the inside pad moved during the previous step, reinstall.
NOTE
Replacing one pad at a time keeps the anti-rattle spring in
place. Remove both pads to remove or replace the spring.
12. Inspect pad pins. See CLEANING AND INSPECTION,
step 4.
13. Install two pad pins and tighten to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-
22.6 Nm).
14. Pump rear brake pedal to move pistons out until they
contact both brake pads. Verify piston location against
pads.
14. Pump rear brake pedal to move pistons out until they
contact both brake pads. Verify piston location against
pads.
14. Pump rear brake pedal to move pistons out until they
contact both brake pads. Verify piston location against
pads.
15. Verify that brake fluid level is 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) below top
of reservoir with master cylinder in a level position. Add
DOT 4 BRAKE FLUID, if necessary.
16. Install the master cylinder reservoir cover, but first verify
that the cover gasket bellows is not extended or brake
fluid will be ejected from the reservoir. Install two Phillips
screws and alternately tighten to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9
Nm).
17. Install master cylinder reservoir cover. Install two Phillips
screws to fasten cover to reservoir and tighten to 6-8 inlbs
(0.7-0.9 Nm).
18. Install right side saddlebag. See Section 2.26 SADDLEBAG,
INSTALLATION.
19. Test operation of brake lamp with the rear brake applied
and the Ignition/Light Key Switch turned to IGNITION.
20. Test ride the motorcycle.

 

Yea what Brian said, I knew when I did it It only took 1/2 hr.

 

Thanks for the info and the manual post. I will see if I can do it, if not will take it to the guy that put my tire on last week, he noticed the pads then but was out of stock on the pads until a couple of days later...go figure...from the looks of mine, I have about a third left...again thanks.


Joe

 

PDDGM...where do you hail from

 

I found that if you have 'floating rotors' the wheel has to be dropped. The mechanicals that float the rotor wont allow the pads to drop out or maybe it was that the new ones wouldn't clear going in.

 

hijack how about the fronts are they about a half hour too. its gettin close to that time