CHARGING SYSTEM
#1
05-20-2008 | 01:24 PM
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Stage II
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2
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CHARGING SYSTEM
I AM GOING CRAZY TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHY VOLT METER IS NO RGISTERING CORRECTLEY. AT IDLE I GET 12 VOLTS, UNDER NORMAL RIDING I GET 14 VOLTS, HOW EVER IF I COME TO A IDLE OR PULL IN CLUTCH AT ROAD SPEED VOLTAGE DROPS BACK TO 12 VOLTS EVEN IF RPMS ARE 3000. ALSO BATTERY LIGHT AND FUEL LINE COMES ON AT IDLE IF IN TRAFFIC.
#2
05-20-2008 | 01:39 PM
Road Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 2
From: somewhere
RE: CHARGING SYSTEM
have you tested the stator
have you tested the battery
have you tested the voltgage regulator
Without knowing more this will be difficult to troubleshoot.
Get a volt/ohm meter. Check each item above at idle and at 3000 rpm. Of course, while not in gear.
See what you get.
have you tested the battery
have you tested the voltgage regulator
Without knowing more this will be difficult to troubleshoot.
Get a volt/ohm meter. Check each item above at idle and at 3000 rpm. Of course, while not in gear.
See what you get.
#3
05-20-2008 | 01:41 PM
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
RE: CHARGING SYSTEM
I've seen a lot of posts about bad stators on here.... mine went out last week and it's been in the shop getting replaced... they're replacing the regluator as well, although they say it's still good, and all under warranty... SUPPOSED to be ready by this weekend so I can do some riding....
#4
05-20-2008 | 01:51 PM
Road Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 2
From: somewhere
RE: CHARGING SYSTEM
a bad/faulty stator has the same simptoms as a bad auto alternator. The battery will eventually go completely dead even whil running as al the bike is running off the battery not the charging system.
A weak amount of volts/amps is generally a sign of a voltage regualtor issue.
Rule-of thumb---replace the stator and also replace the VR.
You dont have to replace the stator when the VR dies but yes if the stator dies.
I have replaced mine about a year ago, and one for a friend last week.
One quick way to tell if its the stator...not 100%...remove the promary inspection cover...if you get a very strong odor of fried electrical wires, then the stator is dead.
Check with a volter/ohm meter first before you start replacing parts. the stator replacement is a 3-4 hour job & not for the faint hearted.
A weak amount of volts/amps is generally a sign of a voltage regualtor issue.
Rule-of thumb---replace the stator and also replace the VR.
You dont have to replace the stator when the VR dies but yes if the stator dies.
I have replaced mine about a year ago, and one for a friend last week.
One quick way to tell if its the stator...not 100%...remove the promary inspection cover...if you get a very strong odor of fried electrical wires, then the stator is dead.
Check with a volter/ohm meter first before you start replacing parts. the stator replacement is a 3-4 hour job & not for the faint hearted.
#5
05-20-2008 | 02:48 PM
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
Likes: 8
From: Plum & Nearly
RE: CHARGING SYSTEM
there is a procedure for checking the stator output of "AC" voltage. This will tell you if the staor isworking correctly...If so then the regulator is next to check...there is a procedure for checking that also.
The electrical diagnositcs manual for tourers outlines all the procedures....the regular service manual will tell you how to replace the parts.
Good Luck.
The electrical diagnositcs manual for tourers outlines all the procedures....the regular service manual will tell you how to replace the parts.
Good Luck.
#6
05-20-2008 | 03:14 PM
Banned
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere in NE PA
RE: CHARGING SYSTEM
Don't disconnect or reconnect the stator plug when the bike is running, it can (and will) fry the stator.
To check stator rotor output:
1) disconnect the stator plug
2) start bike
3) set multi-meter to VAC
4) read across the stator plug (one probe in each hole)
5) have someone rev the bike up to 2000-3000 RPM
6) stator/rotor output should be 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM
To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
1) set multi-meter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
6) kill engine
7) reconnect stator plug
To check voltage regulator function:
1) set multi-meter to VDC
2) check battery voltage...12.5-13.0 VDC (if the battery isn't fully charged, this test is useless)
3) start bike
4) hold the red lead of the multi-meter to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post.
5) increase engine RPM to at least 2000 RPM
6) multi-meter will show regulator charging rate which should be 14.2-14.6 VDC. A brand new fully charged battery will sometimes only indicate 14.0 VDC; anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery.
Did the stator go bad first or the regulator?
A bad stator will take out a regulator and a dead short will ruin both.
A bad or intermittent ground on the regulator is never a good idea either.
To check stator rotor output:
1) disconnect the stator plug
2) start bike
3) set multi-meter to VAC
4) read across the stator plug (one probe in each hole)
5) have someone rev the bike up to 2000-3000 RPM
6) stator/rotor output should be 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM
To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
1) set multi-meter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
6) kill engine
7) reconnect stator plug
To check voltage regulator function:
1) set multi-meter to VDC
2) check battery voltage...12.5-13.0 VDC (if the battery isn't fully charged, this test is useless)
3) start bike
4) hold the red lead of the multi-meter to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post.
5) increase engine RPM to at least 2000 RPM
6) multi-meter will show regulator charging rate which should be 14.2-14.6 VDC. A brand new fully charged battery will sometimes only indicate 14.0 VDC; anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery.
Did the stator go bad first or the regulator?
A bad stator will take out a regulator and a dead short will ruin both.
A bad or intermittent ground on the regulator is never a good idea either.
#7
05-20-2008 | 05:33 PM
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 602
Likes: 2
From: Lakewood, N.J.
RE: CHARGING SYSTEM
ORIGINAL: Puzzled
Don't disconnect or reconnect the stator plug when the bike is running, it can (and will) fry the stator.
To check stator rotor output:
1) disconnect the stator plug
2) start bike
3) set multi-meter to VAC
4) read across the stator plug (one probe in each hole)
5) have someone rev the bike up to 2000-3000 RPM
6) stator/rotor output should be 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM
To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
1) set multi-meter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
6) kill engine
7) reconnect stator plug
To check voltage regulator function:
1) set multi-meter to VDC
2) check battery voltage...12.5-13.0 VDC (if the battery isn't fully charged, this test is useless)
3) start bike
4) hold the red lead of the multi-meter to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post.
5) increase engine RPM to at least 2000 RPM
6) multi-meter will show regulator charging rate which should be 14.2-14.6 VDC. A brand new fully charged battery will sometimes only indicate 14.0 VDC; anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery.
Did the stator go bad first or the regulator?
A bad stator will take out a regulator and a dead short will ruin both.
A bad or intermittent ground on the regulator is never a good idea either.
Don't disconnect or reconnect the stator plug when the bike is running, it can (and will) fry the stator.
To check stator rotor output:
1) disconnect the stator plug
2) start bike
3) set multi-meter to VAC
4) read across the stator plug (one probe in each hole)
5) have someone rev the bike up to 2000-3000 RPM
6) stator/rotor output should be 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM
To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
1) set multi-meter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
6) kill engine
7) reconnect stator plug
To check voltage regulator function:
1) set multi-meter to VDC
2) check battery voltage...12.5-13.0 VDC (if the battery isn't fully charged, this test is useless)
3) start bike
4) hold the red lead of the multi-meter to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post.
5) increase engine RPM to at least 2000 RPM
6) multi-meter will show regulator charging rate which should be 14.2-14.6 VDC. A brand new fully charged battery will sometimes only indicate 14.0 VDC; anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery.
Did the stator go bad first or the regulator?
A bad stator will take out a regulator and a dead short will ruin both.
A bad or intermittent ground on the regulator is never a good idea either.
To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
1) set multi-meter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
6) kill engine <- omit this
7) reconnect stator plug
All continuity or resistance checks on anything are done without power
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#10
05-20-2008 | 08:52 PM
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From:
RE: CHARGING SYSTEM
Had same thing happen. Took it in to the dealer and they ran their checks and found that the stator wire when it turns to plug into the regulator was rubbing on the frame and the wire had worn completely apart. They put a band aid on it so I could ride until new stator comes in sometime next weekl.
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