I presently have the Tmax autotune and stopped at the local shop to have a 3 run dyno and the #'s 92hp and 95tq, 4th gear...sad huh...the tuner does not know much about the Tmax, so I will revert to the SERT and have him tune that and then maybe check more into the Tmax at a later date.

I would like to know the map of choice on the SERT for a 103" HQ Touring...I have a Fat Cat Quiet...stage 1 air cleaner

Will I need to put the original O2's in?

Thanks as always...Tim

 

would think he could give you a/f readout and some idea as to how good tmax is doing.Plus i thought that the idea of tmax was to do away with need of dyno tuner.personaly I went back to old school carb and time and tune at local dragstrip.Then fine tune to highway use.maybe not hightech but easy and lots more fun.cant get 3000 rpm launch wheel up some with a dyno.

 

Why the hell would you take off something that is working well and replace it with something you cannot control yourself? If it ain't broke don't go trying to fix it, and don't let one shops dyno convince you that a SERT is going to be much if any better. Besides, the SERT is history to the MOCO as they have gone to new suppliers with their new Pro Tuner.

If the guy doing the dyno was worth his weight in salt, he would have known something about the Thundermax, and furthermore, he could have hooked the gas analyzer up to your exhaust to display the air fuel mixture coming from the bike. That would have told him how well it was tuned via the Thundermax. In my advice, you're best leave it alone.

If this is all because of the numbers...there's many reasons they could be reporting low. One is the dyno was not reporting well, and the other could be the build itself. Do you have the right cams for the build, the right throttle body, the right right heads or head work? I've seen many people do 103" builds only to leave something on the table cause they went with an all MOCO build and perhaps bought the wrong heads or a poor choice in cams. There's much more to building power than a simple dealer build. I don't know what you have in your motor but if you care to share those facts I'll be able to elaborate or look to see what you have?

 

I have the HQ 103" Touring kit, 575 cams from HQ,Fat Cat Quiet, SE air cleaner.

It is not my desire to be critical of the tuner...we just stuck it on after hours at the shop just to seewhat it was reading/doing numbers wise...I just thought the autotune would be putting higher numbers out after 1000 miles

 

WOT dyno runs don't reflect the bikes "street performance"....chasing numbers is costly and frustrating....ask me why I know

 

Unless you have a A/F reading you really won't know where to start with the tuning. It would tell you if it was running rich or lean and that itself could make all of the difference that you were expecting. I say dyno it with a A/F reading and go from there. Don't give up just because of the numbers. I made the below SAE corrected pulls with my Tmax and I only had 120 miles on the build then. I've since tweaked it even more and managed to get 49 mpg while cruising the backroads. I'm more than satisfied with the tuner.

 

I am assumingthe 103" touring kit a Harley kit from the dealer? If so, what compression are you running, are they stock heads, did you have the heads ported, did you install the HTCC heads or what does the kit consist of?

 

In order for any auto-tune system to perform well in WOT dyno runs, you have to be able to do WOT to allow the system to tune in the RPM/Throttle position range. Not too often are you able to do WOT runs for an extended amount of time to allow the systems to tune for them.

I couldn't care less what my bike is doing at WOT.............what I care about is normal riding conditions in the range I use the most. In my case, the DTT auto-tune system is doing great.........much smoother then any of my "dyno-tuned" maps with a PC were ever doing before.

Stick with the auto-tune system...............it's really the only way to go.

Steve

 

Perhaps you misunderstand the functioning of the autotune.

The t-max will tune itself to adjust the AFR to whatever you set it to. It cannot figure out what AFR is best for your build.

There are a whole bunch of "canned" maps for the t-max, but I was unhappy with my recommended map. It was way too rich at cruise. I played with it and got it where I want it. I do not know if it is optimal for my specific engine, and only a dyno can help make those changes.

The t-max has many different adjustments, but the AFR is only adjusted based on exhaust gas analysis, just like the Dyno exhaust gas analyzer.

I could be completely wrong about all this, but I think I understand it. Once you get the main settings dialed in, it will adjust itself for minor changes like an air filter getting dirty, or perhaps even a different intake. But different cams or a larger displacement will require setting a new basemap.

 

This is the link of the kit I installed...

http://www.head-quarters-usa.com/touring07.html

The heads were ported by HQ the kit is put together by their thoughts I am happy w/ them