if you get a series of rapid flashes and never any slow flashes when reading the codes then all is OK..
the rapid flashes are in the beginning and the end..so if it went thru with no slow flashes ....there are no codes stored..
i make it part of my oil service routine to check for codes...
the service manual has been a very good source for me, the manual and the forum together provide alot of information.
service manual from harley for FLT models and road kings is PN 99483-98..about $50

 

again rather simple system to work with.
you can read codes thru check engine light.
for a 10 year old bike..for the most common complaints to be #1 engine temp sensor and #2 cam position sensor #3 leaking LCD display on road king odometer, that is not a whole lot of issues...and the code #56 when you have a bad start or when the cam sensor is going...all are do it yourself and rather easy to do with limited tools and service book..
just consider leaving things simple...with 60 Hp you are not about to drag race anyone.

 

I just did this procedue on my '01 EFI King and after the fast flashes I got 5 slow flashes followed by 2 seconds then 6 more slow flashes then back to the rapid and then the same slow flashes all over again. So, since there is no "4" in the first number this means my codes is a 66? If that's the case what is a code 66?

 

I purchased the 1"3/4 manual when I bought the bike. The EFI part is slightly over whelming. the first page alone shows many parts needed to replace the carb, whose place it has taken. I took that as a bad sign. It seems to insinuate I will have to step up to the technological recquirements of which I am very distantly familar with. And that if just one part of that process is damaged or in disrepair you will be stranded no matter where you are. Will see. I am heading on a 4 day ride here coming up in May.

Thanks im for sharing your valuable and possibly hard earned knowledge. With a carb I'm cool. EFI, I feel like a duck out of water. I've always been able to get home under my own power whetherextra chain links, points/condensers, baling wire, bag ofassorted nut and bolts, fix-o-flat. New tech makes me nervous and cell phones still have dead spots,eh?.

 

for DiegoKing- the info above was for an evo 1998, older fuel injection.
i believe your bike has a different system "delphi" and requires a different diagnostic set-up

 

this is a link from the forum that someone posted for an 02 bike. which is a different system ..I have not tried it.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_1627009/tm.htm
the service manual should have the procedure under "diagnostics"
hope it helps.

 

Just for info to all, I found what was causing this. while installing the stage two I decided to play around and see what was causing this. Now everyone knows this has an idle stabilzation or idle up silonoid. That is attached to the throttle, I removed the linkage and found the bearing hard to move. I cleanded and lubed, but it still a little hard. Now what happens is because of this, when the idle up pushes on the lever, it can not return all the way back. It would bind causing the fast idle. Now simple fix, since the lever for the idle up is not part of the hand throttle, I added a return spring to this and the problem is gone. Since before I had it wired back, I now have normal idle and also have the idle up when cold feature so it does not die right away after cold start up. I will try and find the lever for the thorttle body, but right now I dont think you can get it by itself, so for now the return spring is working great. Just figured I would update in case someone else wanted to know how to fix. IF anyone else is having this issue I could post pictures of what I did so that they can theres.

Thanks to all

David DeLeon

 

deleontow,

could you please post the pics, I seem to be having the same problem.

thx

mike