Hydralic Floor Jack for Glides
#41
RE: Hydralic Floor Jack for Glides
ORIGINAL: FLHT
I have one question for you guys that go out and spend big bucks on a jack for your bike. Did you do the same for your car or your truck? I know my car came with probably a $20.00 scissor jack, if that. I have never considered changing it.
I have one question for you guys that go out and spend big bucks on a jack for your bike. Did you do the same for your car or your truck? I know my car came with probably a $20.00 scissor jack, if that. I have never considered changing it.
Wanna buy/use a cheap bike jack? Its your bike, your money, and your choice. I choose not to.
#43
RE: Hydralic Floor Jack for Glides
ORIGINAL: ww1flyingace
Ill answer your question with another question. If your TRUCK falls off that $20 jack, does it land on its wheels, or does it fall on its side causing hundreds if not thousands of dollars of damage?
Wanna buy/use a cheap bike jack? Its your bike, your money, and your choice. I choose not to.
ORIGINAL: FLHT
I have one question for you guys that go out and spend big bucks on a jack for your bike. Did you do the same for your car or your truck? I know my car came with probably a $20.00 scissor jack, if that. I have never considered changing it.
I have one question for you guys that go out and spend big bucks on a jack for your bike. Did you do the same for your car or your truck? I know my car came with probably a $20.00 scissor jack, if that. I have never considered changing it.
Wanna buy/use a cheap bike jack? Its your bike, your money, and your choice. I choose not to.
#45
RE: Hydralic Floor Jack for Glides
ORIGINAL: ww1flyingace
Jim,
I have owed the Sears red jack, my buddy owned a Pep Boyz version (until it damn near dumped his dyna on its side) and I now own a J&S. Here are the major differences:
1. The lift arms on the J&S are spaced further apart than the cheaper jacks. This is the source of the greater stability. My sears red jack was a big pain in the *** to try and get the jack under the bike at the correct "balance point". If it was not in just the right place under the bike (front to back) the bike would tip towards the front or back. And of course, the "balance point" seemed to be right where the jack would interfere with my jiffy stand.
2. The lift arms on the J&S are LONGER than the cheaper jacks. My sears jack only had about 1/2" of arm protruding past the bikes frame rails on either side. Adding one more thing to have to be that much more careful about when positioning the jack. Also, if your that close to the edge of the jack, and someone should manage to give the bike a good bump while on the jack....its going off.
3. The "security bars" on the sears jack I had, as well as my buddys pepboyz jack, were a joke. The construction consists of 4 pieces of 3/8" round bar welded to the lower rail of the jack, which a pointed arm is supposed to engage to secure the jack. Cheesy construction aside the fact that the "hook" engaged only on ONE side of the jack, due to the security arm being about as strait as a dogs hind leg did not give me any confidence. On the J&S, BOTH sides fully engage securely into a cutout in the bottom rail of the jack.
4. I had to drive my EG Classic onto blocks in order to get the sears jack under the bike, It would not slide under otherwise. The J&S will fit under my Streetglide with no problems, and it is (of course) lowered in the back compared to the Classic.
5. The J&S is simply built better. The sears jack looks like it was made in china, by the third shift, on a friday.
When I had the sears jack, the only way I felt safe with my bike on it, was when I left one of the bikes wheels on the ground. And even then, I never felt good about it.
I have almost 28K wrapped up in my bike. Im not going to risk finding it laying on its side in my garage because I tried to save $300 on a jack.
Jim,
I have owed the Sears red jack, my buddy owned a Pep Boyz version (until it damn near dumped his dyna on its side) and I now own a J&S. Here are the major differences:
1. The lift arms on the J&S are spaced further apart than the cheaper jacks. This is the source of the greater stability. My sears red jack was a big pain in the *** to try and get the jack under the bike at the correct "balance point". If it was not in just the right place under the bike (front to back) the bike would tip towards the front or back. And of course, the "balance point" seemed to be right where the jack would interfere with my jiffy stand.
2. The lift arms on the J&S are LONGER than the cheaper jacks. My sears jack only had about 1/2" of arm protruding past the bikes frame rails on either side. Adding one more thing to have to be that much more careful about when positioning the jack. Also, if your that close to the edge of the jack, and someone should manage to give the bike a good bump while on the jack....its going off.
3. The "security bars" on the sears jack I had, as well as my buddys pepboyz jack, were a joke. The construction consists of 4 pieces of 3/8" round bar welded to the lower rail of the jack, which a pointed arm is supposed to engage to secure the jack. Cheesy construction aside the fact that the "hook" engaged only on ONE side of the jack, due to the security arm being about as strait as a dogs hind leg did not give me any confidence. On the J&S, BOTH sides fully engage securely into a cutout in the bottom rail of the jack.
4. I had to drive my EG Classic onto blocks in order to get the sears jack under the bike, It would not slide under otherwise. The J&S will fit under my Streetglide with no problems, and it is (of course) lowered in the back compared to the Classic.
5. The J&S is simply built better. The sears jack looks like it was made in china, by the third shift, on a friday.
When I had the sears jack, the only way I felt safe with my bike on it, was when I left one of the bikes wheels on the ground. And even then, I never felt good about it.
I have almost 28K wrapped up in my bike. Im not going to risk finding it laying on its side in my garage because I tried to save $300 on a jack.
Ride well,
Jim
#46
RE: Hydralic Floor Jack for Glides
Your welcome.
A bit additional.
According to a review I just found, the Sears Red jack has lifting pads that are 13" long, and 8.5 inches apart.
I just measured my J&S, the arms are 16.25" long, and are 13.5 inches apart. (a full 5 inches wider span) Basically, if you put the rear lift pad in the crossover piece at the back of the frame, the front pad will be as far forward as it can go, before the frame starts to curve upward.
A bit additional.
According to a review I just found, the Sears Red jack has lifting pads that are 13" long, and 8.5 inches apart.
I just measured my J&S, the arms are 16.25" long, and are 13.5 inches apart. (a full 5 inches wider span) Basically, if you put the rear lift pad in the crossover piece at the back of the frame, the front pad will be as far forward as it can go, before the frame starts to curve upward.
#48
RE: Hydralic Floor Jack for Glides
ORIGINAL: Capt Jim
What's the difference between the sears yellow jack and red jack, besides color??
What's the difference between the sears yellow jack and red jack, besides color??
#49
RE: Hydralic Floor Jack for Glides
ORIGINAL: Badfinger
I'm merely performing due diligences before making another purchase and trying to use this forum for information as intended.... I can't find ant specs on Assembly, materials, etc.
I'm merely performing due diligences before making another purchase and trying to use this forum for information as intended.... I can't find ant specs on Assembly, materials, etc.