One thing to keep in mind is that the Dyno is just a tuning tool. The numbers in the end are just that, numbers. They really do not mean anything other than for braggin rights. You af ratio looks really good on both runs and the numbers are typical for your mods. What is really important is the seat of the pants dyno. It is far more accurate. Dynos on the same bike on the same machine can vary greatly from day to day. Run temps, humidity, tire pressure, and many other things can affect the HP/TQ numbers on the machine. The most important data you get from the run is to have a nice flat AF ratio which yours is.

 

The 95" definitely has more "get up" than the 88". I wanted to change the cams but the dealer would not warranty the bike. I did get an explaination of the differences between the two dyno charts from my father-in-law, Ted. Ted builds race cars and dyno tunes his own race car engines. Here is what he told me.

I suspect that the dyno has a different software package. It may also be
using a different SAE correction factor. SAE has a number of different
correction factors that use different temperature, humidity, and barometric
numbers as the standard day to calculate the correction applied to the raw
HP and torque. One of the original ones used 60 degrees, 10% humidity, and
29.92 inches of mercury. Later ones 75 degrees, 30.1 inches of mercury and
40% humidity to represent the standard day. There are many others that might
be used and the correction might 98% for one and 103% for another on the day
of the run. Attached is the one that I use.

Input From API Calculated Values
Pressure (In of Hg) Temperature (F) Humidity % P Factor T Factor H Factor Total Correction Factor
30.20 70.0 48 0.9900 1.0087 1.0341 1.0327

 

I guess I should be happy that there are no dips in the curve for my Thunderheaders. The Cubic Inches do take care of business even if the number don't look very impressive. I really see the most bang for the buck with a SERT and 2-1 pipes.

 

After adding the SERT, SE slip on's, stage 1, with Mikuni baffles my SG came out of the Dyno with 76.09hp and 80.81 torque. I didn't think it was too bad for a 88. I'll pobably add the 95 and cam later down the road.

[IMG]local://upfiles/7698/2A34BEF3297B4B6E8109FCE863B8794E.jpg[/IMG]

 

Look at the area under the curve.
Thats what you gained with the 95"
It's not just about peak numbers. You are reaching close to max power and holding it for longer.

Or maybe my eyes are just playing tricks on me.

 

Agreed: Seat of the pants means more than anything.

I had a similar 95" on my last bike ('02 Night Train fuel injected). SE Air Cleaner, 95", SE 203 Cams, and VH 2-1 Pro Pipe, flat/perfect air fuel on the dyno. It turned about 75 horse and 92 torque, and it went like a raped ape, so I know what you mean about the "seat of the pants" feeling. I could beat my father's 103" stroker Road King, with SE heads and the works...which really pissed him off.

If you do the cams, as someone suggested, you'll get some serious torque added to that figure. You could go low cost with bolt in SE cams (203 or 204), or the gear drives are obviously the preferred choice...

Have fun and crank the throttle often - it keeps your bike running good!

 

The blue line is the baseline of the motor. The baseline is the result of what the motor was with the dealers default map uploaded through the SERT into my bikes computer and all the work I had done to my bike. I ran my bike with the default map for 3500 miles until the rings seated. The blue line is what the motor was before the tuner started tweaking. The red line is the result of the tune’s choices that he decided best for my motor. The distance between the two curves is what I gained from the tuner tuning in the proper air/fuel ratio, spark advance, etc. adjustments to my motor. I’m impressed how close the dealers default map was to the final map.

Take a look at the final results in the Air/Fuel table. Again, the blue line is the baseline. The curvy red line is the final result. The straight red line appears to be the tuners target line. This isn’t the stoichiometric AFR (air fuel ratio) because that would be at 14.7:1 AFR. (“Stoichiometric means that a ratio of 14.7 grams of oxygen to 1 gram of fuel, when burned, will theoretically result in complete combustion.” ) Since Harley’s run between 8:1 to 15:1, this must be the safe target for a slightly richer motor that works best for air-cooled HD motors. I was running with a leaner ~14:1 AFR until the tuner enriched the motor and got me closer to the target line (13.4:1). That leaner condition probably contributed to the popping during deceleration I was getting.

You just can’t compare someone else’s dyno results to your own. There are just too many factors involved. You can get more HP closer to sea level with slightly moist air then you get in a high altitude and dry air. If the SAE correction factors are not properly inputted, the resultant data will be compromised.

Beating your father's 103" stroker Road King could be just a result of the Weight/HP factor.

 

Peak HP is right at 5,550 RPM and drops to around 77 HP at 5,950 RPM. Peak torque is at 4,000 RPM and stays above 80 from 3,100 to 5,100 RPM. The torque is pretty flat from 3,750 to 4,250 RPM. The engine is making 72 TQ and 32 HP at 2,250 RPM.

 

Agreed.

 

Now this is only my $.02 here but why would go with a big bore kit and not go with a bigger cam, your not feeding the engine with what it wants, all you gained is the tq from the bigger bore, now put in new bumpsticks with geardrives and you will see a greater increase still.